subcmdr
Registered
Bought it (for use with the HF200), and so far love it. Fits perfectly with the Ikelite W-20 67mm wide angle lens.
Canon WP-V1 Housing!
- Thread starter TheBigPhillyFish
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gunsrunner
Registered
Yes that could be a problem, it might take a bit of trial and error to get it right but it would be worth it.
In regards to the uv lens, good idea to protect the port, does it remove or block much light and does it make much of a difference to the colors? Just trying to justify the extra $180au for a filter that could make things worse(light wise) without lights.
From what i have read, if you can do a manual white balance and not use any filters then that equals max light getting to the lens!!
I think a wide angle lens would make a big difference, good to know the ikelite stuff fits the thread.
Heading to Bali in Oct, hope to have some good vids after that.
P.S. Congrats Jade!!! Its great to have a partner that enjoys the deep blue, my diving has been so much more fun since my wife took the plunge.
In regards to the uv lens, good idea to protect the port, does it remove or block much light and does it make much of a difference to the colors? Just trying to justify the extra $180au for a filter that could make things worse(light wise) without lights.
From what i have read, if you can do a manual white balance and not use any filters then that equals max light getting to the lens!!
I think a wide angle lens would make a big difference, good to know the ikelite stuff fits the thread.
Heading to Bali in Oct, hope to have some good vids after that.
P.S. Congrats Jade!!! Its great to have a partner that enjoys the deep blue, my diving has been so much more fun since my wife took the plunge.
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Conchchowder
Contributor
$180 AU for a filter? Come on, it's a simple 37mm UV filter. If you're paying more than $25AU, you're getting ripped off. Go to a photo shop,mall, or better yet, a flea market. Loss of light? THIS IS ULTRAVIOLET. YOU CAN'T SEE ULTRAVIOLET!!!
gunsrunner
Registered
Sorry, I was meaning a different filter!
URPro colour corection filter glass/cy 67mm AU$189.00
URPro colour corection filter glass/cy 67mm AU$189.00
Conchchowder
Contributor
In "underwater mode" the HF200/20 electronically adds a cyan filter to the stream so you get maximum light through the lens (and continuous automatic white balance...why would you want to use manual??!!). You could add an external filter, but why? You can do any color correction to the underwater mode in post processing editing by changing the values on the color wheel.
There is a new review with footage here: Review: Diving with the Waterproofed Canon HF20 - Canon hf20 - Gizmodo
millermil121
Registered
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1st Dive. The Rodeo 25. 125fsw. Internal "underwater" setting (filter) and UV filter.
2nd Dive. The Pompano Drop-Off "The Nursery" 20fsw same camera settings.
Ambient light for this clip.
Other footage used the UK Light Canon 100 w/o light diffuser.
The other footage is spectacular!
2nd Dive. The Pompano Drop-Off "The Nursery" 20fsw same camera settings.
Ambient light for this clip.
Other footage used the UK Light Canon 100 w/o light diffuser.
The other footage is spectacular!
jim hoppe
Registered
going to try this housing in the Coral sea (Mike Ball) in a week. Hope to post the results in October. The reviews of this camera are critical of the "low Light" performance What I have read suggests that no filter is necessary for the hf 200. Question, is a silicone treatment necessary for every dive or just every now and then?
aquaspider
Registered
I just signed up, mainly to give my input for the benefit of someone contemplating a purchase. I received my HF200 and WP-V1 just barely in time for my trip to Curacao in late June. I have since used this combo near home at Catalina and will use it in Taveuni in a couple of weeks.
Condensation is not a problem. The case is at least as strong as other polycarbonate cases offered by camera manufacturers. If the case shows signs of impending failure years down the road, no biggie--the camera will be obsolete anyway and the cost for a new case for an updated camera (if one is offered) will probably still be 1/3 the cost for a decent pro type case (Ikelite, etc). The underwater setting gives moderate improvement. My friend's G10 has a way too strong correction on his uw setting. I have not tried a UV pro filter. Post editing with PPro or PEle can easily bring up the colors the rest of the way. Videos shot out of the water with the u/w setting display too much red, as expected. Better to under correct than over. One thing to remember with adding a filter: All filters reduce the amount of available light the camera sees. This may not be a problem if you use lights. I only shoot in natural light.
Although some settings are not available in the case, you can reassign the function of one of the butons to make it available for the task you choose. This may be enough if you set it up correctly before you jump in. I am a simple point and shoot guy. My old eyes can't see the little icons very well underwater anyway. I spend my time squinting at the viewer to make sure the subject is not cut off.
Some mention has been made of using a wide lens. To me, any typical consumer video cam in a case with a flat port is worthless without w/a lens unless you are shooting macro. I use an Epoch because I have one from an Ikelite case I used to use. The w/a lens throws the balance way forward. The handle is located near the back of the case, and this makes it nearly impossible to get steady shots. After Curacao, I was shocked that from about 150 clips, only small parts of about two dozen were acceptable as far as movement is concerned.
I have made modifications that have the camera balanced underwater. At my last outing, NO clips were ruined by unavoidable movement. I have the WW-DC1 weight kit but the tripod mount where it is supposed to sit is too far forward. I made a mount at the rear bottom, and moved the handle as far forward as practical. I added a slightly weighted handle to the left side for a more stable grip.
I have made the lens self priming, something I first tried with the Ikelite, because unscrewing the lens in the water and trying to screw it back on without crossthreading while the dive group fades into the distance is just plain lame and unnecessary.
I have photos of the mods and have posted some of the vids to YouTube. I would be happy to share if there is interest. Some will surely claim "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". That is the complaint of the truly clueless. A better take might be "If you can't take it apart, you don't own it". With the proper mods, this rig cannot be matched by anything anywhere near the price!
Condensation is not a problem. The case is at least as strong as other polycarbonate cases offered by camera manufacturers. If the case shows signs of impending failure years down the road, no biggie--the camera will be obsolete anyway and the cost for a new case for an updated camera (if one is offered) will probably still be 1/3 the cost for a decent pro type case (Ikelite, etc). The underwater setting gives moderate improvement. My friend's G10 has a way too strong correction on his uw setting. I have not tried a UV pro filter. Post editing with PPro or PEle can easily bring up the colors the rest of the way. Videos shot out of the water with the u/w setting display too much red, as expected. Better to under correct than over. One thing to remember with adding a filter: All filters reduce the amount of available light the camera sees. This may not be a problem if you use lights. I only shoot in natural light.
Although some settings are not available in the case, you can reassign the function of one of the butons to make it available for the task you choose. This may be enough if you set it up correctly before you jump in. I am a simple point and shoot guy. My old eyes can't see the little icons very well underwater anyway. I spend my time squinting at the viewer to make sure the subject is not cut off.
Some mention has been made of using a wide lens. To me, any typical consumer video cam in a case with a flat port is worthless without w/a lens unless you are shooting macro. I use an Epoch because I have one from an Ikelite case I used to use. The w/a lens throws the balance way forward. The handle is located near the back of the case, and this makes it nearly impossible to get steady shots. After Curacao, I was shocked that from about 150 clips, only small parts of about two dozen were acceptable as far as movement is concerned.
I have made modifications that have the camera balanced underwater. At my last outing, NO clips were ruined by unavoidable movement. I have the WW-DC1 weight kit but the tripod mount where it is supposed to sit is too far forward. I made a mount at the rear bottom, and moved the handle as far forward as practical. I added a slightly weighted handle to the left side for a more stable grip.
I have made the lens self priming, something I first tried with the Ikelite, because unscrewing the lens in the water and trying to screw it back on without crossthreading while the dive group fades into the distance is just plain lame and unnecessary.
I have photos of the mods and have posted some of the vids to YouTube. I would be happy to share if there is interest. Some will surely claim "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". That is the complaint of the truly clueless. A better take might be "If you can't take it apart, you don't own it". With the proper mods, this rig cannot be matched by anything anywhere near the price!
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Conchchowder
Contributor
aquaspider-thanks for the info, but I can't pull up any recent relative vids with "wp-v1" as the search term on Youtube. I know you cant post links here, but could you take the terms after the dot com as in "/watch?v=LxIudK9MRWs" and post that part so we may see your mods?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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