color correction- raw vs. filter vs. manual white balance

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Jamdiver, that's the original picture without processing. Tried editing it but it just got "noisier":D Most of my "no strobe-manual WB" pics look like that. Photoediting enhances the colors but increases the noise. Any suggestions on how best to photoedit them?

MJH - yes, I also think Magic Filters can't be wet mounted and I was hoping there was a wet-mountable kind which is just as good.

Great shots DesertEagle. Those are the kind of shots I was hoping to get. My other ones were worse than the pic just I posted and here are 2 more examples that have not been edited.

272278867_d66510e097_o.jpg


272277720_e44b7f8778_o.jpg
 
CLA:
Jamdiver, that's the original picture without processing. Tried editing it but it just got "noisier":D Most of my "no strobe-manual WB" pics look like that. Photoediting enhances the colors but increases the noise. Any suggestions on how best to photoedit them?

Hmm, well generally my photo process goes like this...
Open up pic and evalutate it, determine what steps are needed to bring the best out of it.

New adjustment layers of..

  • Levels (Can remove colour casts this way and get some contrast for lack of a better word into the images)
  • Curves
  • Hue/Saturation (boost/decrease) colours individually
  • Selective colour (I like to imagine the colours as a paint can, and by adding selective colour I can add black or cyan or red or whatever colour I want to an existing colour, changing it subtly)
  • Colour balance sometimes..
  • Flatten layers if it doesn't need anymore editing
Generally after this i'd resize the photo, sharpen it and then upload it :).

These are just steps that I take, not the most skilled at photoshop, trust me there!
But really editing can only do so much, it can't compensate for colours that weren't there when you took the photo...

For example if you're deep enough red is filtered out, even using manual wb and editing that photo can't bring back the red.....

Really what i'm saying is do everything in moderation, don't go overboard :D.
 
CLA - the noise can be from the ISO setting on your camera? Are you on the lowest possible ISO setting, or are you using a higher ISO?

While Jam's advice is good for JPEG's - the RAW imager (pre-jpeg conversion) has different adjustments that you can make, and yes, you can make WB adjustments far beyond what you could do otherwise. RAW imaging produces similar results to setting manual WB, except you do it on the computer after the shot, instead of before :wink:
 
Thanks for the tips Jamdiver. I hope it will help me salvage some old so-so pics. I'm cleaning out my hard disk and am on the verge of chucking out 3/4ths of my old photos. But you are right about not overdoing photoediting. Pictures tend to look unnatural when they're overedited.

"RAW imaging produces similar results to setting manual WB, except you do it on the computer after the shot, instead of before"

Now thats what I wanted to hear. Getting tired of carrying a slate all the time. Thanks Howard. Will try taking raw on my next dive.:)
 
CLA/Kathy

I have an Oly C-5060 (with a C-7070 on the way), so I have a very similar camera. Several points:

1. With regards to the grainy/noise look set you ISO to either 80 or 100. If you use 200 or higher, or even auto the pictures will have alot of noise/grainy look. If set on auto the camera will try to shoot at 200 underwater. The 80 or 100 level will require either a slower shutter speed or higher number apeture setting as the 80/100 levels are not as light sensitive. Try it out on land, take several pictures at each ISO level (80, 100, 200 and 400) and you will see a difference, especially if you crop and/or enlarge a picture.

2. The last 2 dives I have recorded my pictures in RAW rather than jpeg. What a huge difference in the ability to adjust the white balance and exposure value. Your options are to use the original shot settings, auto adjust, preselected adjustments or manual adjustments. You will need to get an application to read the RAW photos and make adjustments. The application that came with the C-5060 is not very good. I do know there is a different application with the C-7070. I use Photoshop Elements 4.0 which does include a RAW Converter add-on.

I do not use a filter, but then again most my dives are from shore in Southern California were viz is limited and the water is more of a greenish color rather than blue. As a result of both these I do not take very many panaramic shots underwater.

I hope this helps.

Jim
 
Jim, those 3 pictures were taken in auto mode but ISO was 80. I use P/ auto because I really don't know which settings work best for WA without a strobe. I guess this is something I'll just have to learn - along with raw processing. Didn't realize I needed a special program for that or that the 7070 had its own raw application. My first cam was a 5060 and so I never bothered to read the 7070 manual.

Thanks for the help. It's encouraging to know that I can still improve my WA photos without having to buy new equipment. Turns out our cameras still have a lot to offer and I haven't maximized its potential.
 
guys,

i am bit confused...so if my camera has an option of saving to a Raw file, do i still need to use a colour filter?

Thx in advance
 
Sunkarm

I don't have a filter and have never known anyone to use a filter. However, with most of my dives in California very few are panaramic/scene shots. I am not sure how much better your shots will be with a filter. Remember, the water absorbs the light that is why we use the strobes/flash. I will have to try a couple of scene shots in Raw and determine the possible adjustments.

I guess the bottom line is I am not convinced that a filter will be of great benefit. There are other "toys" I would rather spend my money on.

Jim G
 
sunkarm:
i am bit confused...so if my camera has an option of saving to a Raw file, do i still need to use a colour filter?
NO.

Putting a filter in front of your camera is going to reduce the light getting to the sensor. You need to compensate for that by 1) opening up the aperture (less depth of focus), 2) slowing the shutter (more blurring due to camera movement and subject movement) or 3) use a higher ISO setting (more sensor noise).


IMO, you are better off just taking the picture in the raw mode, which stores the "raw" information from the sensors. You can then adjust color balance later.
 
CLA, Send me a higher res image and I can run it through noiseware, it does wonders in removing noise. You do lose some detail.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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