Dive rite cx2 Vs lx20+

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Wish I had that experience; did they have you eat the shipping/insurance cost to ship them the defective item? Any chance you can DM me Steve’s contact so I can try that way? Maybe I just have a bad rep…

Wait. Is that your real beef? That they wanted you to pay to ship the light to them to fix?

Also, can you please clarify exactly what the defect was?

After reading your previous post through a couple of times and letting it percolate overnight, what I *think* you are saying is that the QRM striker on the bottom of the light itself got loose over a period of a week of steady diving - and that is the actual defect? That the striker plate got loose after a week of diving?

Following onto that, once it got loose enough, it somehow allowed the On/Off switch mechanism to lose a detent ball.

Forgive my ignorance. I don't have one of these lights to look at. How loose did the striker plate have to get before the light started losing parts? Did it lose the detent ball just from the striker plate getting loose, or did the striker plate have to come completely off before it could lose the detent ball?

Also, did it go from "fine" to "loose enough to lose the detent ball" in 1 dive? In 1 day? Or was it gradually getting more and more loose over a period of 2 or more days before it lost the detent ball?

Thanks. As I'm contemplating buying one of these lights, I'd really like to understand how "fragile" (or not) it is before spending the money.
 
This seems like a case of "somethings wrong, I'm going to ignore it and keep going until the problem gets really bad"
The striker plate his held on with 2 phillips(?) screws. Every charter boat and save a dive kit multitool has the ability to fix it.
 
This seems like a case of "somethings wrong, I'm going to ignore it and keep going until the problem gets really bad"
The striker plate his held on with 2 phillips(?) screws. Every charter boat and save a dive kit multitool has the ability to fix it.
Yes, sort of. It is a bit of a strange design in that the mounting plate literally holds the switch in place. I'm sure it allows the form factor to be smaller, and that's why they went with it. But user beware if you are switching mounting plates! Spring and detent ball will shoot out if you aren't expecting it.

There are two screws, but they are different sizes (barely), if they don't get put back in the correct hole, it'll strip out the delrin and the mounting plate will get loose pretty easily.
 
Yes, sort of. It is a bit of a strange design in that the mounting plate literally holds the switch in place. I'm sure it allows the form factor to be smaller, and that's why they went with it. But user beware if you are switching mounting plates! Spring and detent ball will shoot out if you aren't expecting it.

There are two screws, but they are different sizes (barely), if they don't get put back in the correct hole, it'll strip out the delrin and the mounting plate will get loose pretty easily.

The striker plate is held on by screws that go through the striker plate and thread into Delrin?

That seems odd. I would have thought the screws would thread into metal holes in the light body.

Having two different sized screws there also seems like a bit of a suspect design decision. But, even so, if you put the wrong screw in the wrong hole, that is really on you.
 
The striker plate is held on by screws that go through the striker plate and thread into Delrin?

That seems odd. I would have thought the screws would thread into metal holes in the light body.

Having two different sized screws there also seems like a bit of a suspect design decision. But, even so, if you put the wrong screw in the wrong hole, that is really on you.
The mounting plate is delrin, and is threaded. So threads run from plate to light. The pic below sure looks like the screws are the same size. Maybe I had a weird one that somone else got hold of, but I replaced 3 QRM handles for hard goodmans and they were all the same; slightly different sized screws.

1698683110637.png
 
The striker plate is held on by screws that go through the striker plate and thread into Delrin?

That seems odd. I would have thought the screws would thread into metal holes in the light body.

Having two different sized screws there also seems like a bit of a suspect design decision. But, even so, if you put the wrong screw in the wrong hole, that is really on you.
They thread into the aluminum body of the light.
 
That striker plate is for the bx/cx lights.

The LX20 striker plate is a bit odd. The original design had both screws threading into the light, but the switch was prone to getting stuck with silt, so they redesigned it to the current one.
 
Thanks for all the replies, but I'm still unclear on this:

There are two screws, but they are different sizes (barely), if they don't get put back in the correct hole, it'll strip out the delrin and the mounting plate will get loose pretty easily.

If the screws go into the light body, then how does the mounting plate become loose by stripping the holes in the Delrin?
 
Thanks for all the replies, but I'm still unclear on this:



If the screws go into the light body, then how does the mounting plate become loose by stripping the holes in the Delrin?
That is a great question, and I don't really know. I do know going from 1 threaded thing to another threaded thing tends to not be great if they aren't screwed together correctly (ie a 1 thread gap between the two). Maybe the delrin provides the friction to keep it from backing out? Maybe I had the short screw in the long screw location so it was never actually in the light body?

Dunno, but it wasn't working until I figured out the two different size screw thing.
 
Thanks for all the replies, but I'm still unclear on this:



If the screws go into the light body, then how does the mounting plate become loose by stripping the holes in the Delrin?
Not sure what he did, but the delrin isn't actually threaded, it is drilled to the exact size of the screw so that it works kind of like a nylock nut. The screw is threaded into the aluminum and the delrin on the spacer holds it in place.
There are two screws and I was fairly certain they were the same length, but I haven't pulled apart any of the lx20+ versions. The older style lx20 used a different switch and you had to pull them apart for cleaning sometimes.
 

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