DIY weight ditchable pockets

[raftingtigger]

By popular demand (that means one or more requests)

Material needs to be heavy duty. 1000 denier Cordura nylon is good
7” closed end heavy-duty zipper
Velcro: ¾” lengths or 2” lengths
¾” to 1” webbing.
Plastic handle – piece of cutting board works well
D-ring (optional)

Go back and forth over the end of all seams. This needs to be strong.

Step one: cut out the pattern pieces as shown. Please note the long skinny piece (C) is cut on a fold – you see only ½ of a continuous piece. ½” seam allowance is included. Note the vertical line on the long skinny piece at the fold. That is the cut line for the zipper opening. This makes one pocket, you will need a minimum of two.


Step two: Cut a skinny rectangular opening along the cut line on piece C. Make it just big enough to expose the teeth on the zipper. Sew the zipper in, and finish that edge with a zig-zag stitch over the exposed fabric edge

Step three: Cut 2 3” lengths of webbing and sew them to the short straight edge of piece A. These make the belt carriers. Use at least 3 tripled seams. If these rip out you lose your weight and pocket.


That is why it is 2 carriers. Make sure to leave enough room for your seam allowance and a little space as shown. I use a retainer on both carriers for security and stability.

Step four: Fold the long edge of piece D over by ½” and sew down. Zig-zag the exposed edge. Repeat on the other long edge. Sew a 2” strip of velcro (or sew 3 parallel ¾” strips) on piece B about ½ way down. Cover the velcro with piece D and sew the raw edges to piece B. You will have the velcro covered by piece D with both ends open.

Step five: Mark the center of A (short straight edge), B (unsewn edge), and C (center of long edge). Pin and sew (matching center marks) of part A to C, then pin and sew the remaining 2 sides of A to C. Next do the same with B to C. Do the center section first. You will end with 3 seams (up, over, down). At this point you will have something that looks like this (without the visible velcro or handle and web). If you want the optional D-ring this step is the time to install it. Incorporate the D-ring on a small loop of web into a side seam. Make a left and right for your pair. The zipper goes on top when wearing them. The D-ring isn’t used if mounted on a weight belt, but stabilizes the pocket if mounted on the waist strap of a backplate. Finish all seams with a zig-zag stitch along the raw edges. Lastly fold over all the unsewn raw edges and sew them with a straight and zig-zag stitch.


Step six: Add the 2” strip of velcro (or 3x3/4”) on the flap and sew in the release handle. Make the release handle just long enough so the plastic handle sits just below the cloth tunnel. Sew the strap on in such a way that pulling on the handle peels the flap outward and down thru the tunnel. I used fuzzy on the flap and rough in the tunnel. Insert a piece of stiff plastic sheet in the pocket to allow the weight to slip out easily. Shown is a segment of plastic instant coffee container that was cut lengthwise to fit. My other pocket has a piece of flexible cutting board rolled into a tube and inserted.

Step seven: Mount the pocket with the zipper up and flap down. Push the flap up the tunnel (fig 1) – putting your fingers between the velcro helps – and bring the release strap/handle back through so the handle sits just below the tunnel (fig 2).
fig 1fig 2

Enjoy.

I started with my pockets on the BP harness. This leaves me very buoyant and the rig barely floating. Now I wear a belt under my harness - that's why they had to be ditchable. Actually after dropping the belt when exiting my rig for a boat entry the belt now has suspenders. Each pocket will hold a coated hard 5# and 3# weight. The hard weights drop better, especially without the plastic insert.

 

[Peter_C]

I looked at the handles and thought "Nylabone"! Gotta have a dog to understand.

Nice job






I use a weight belt captured by my crotch strap and want it that way. Still ditchable...but with a balanced rig I should never need to do so underwater.

 

[fjpatrum]

Holy crap! I was just about to start a thread about what features folks think would be best in DIY ditchable weight pockets and you have this! Excellent!

I was thinking of making a clip instead of the velcro closure. I haven't decided if this is a good idea since the clip buckles aren't always "quick release".

If using the plastic liner, I might recommend sewing it into the pocket, as well.

 

[raftingtigger]

I was thinking of making a clip instead of the velcro closure. I haven't decided if this is a good idea since the clip buckles aren't always "quick release".

If using the plastic liner, I might recommend sewing it into the pocket, as well.

The velcro works great and is much less expensive and easier to find than a clip. I thought about a clip and am glad I went with velcro.

The plastic liner is cheap and easy to replace. Also it would be hard to sew in. It works best if it is stiff. Also there is no tendency to come out, actually you have to work it in.

Thanks for the thumbs up on the project.

 

[Peter_C]

I just noticed you used a zig zag stitch. What sewing machine are you using? My industrial unit only does straight line, single needle. I have an older Kenmoore unit that does zig zag, and it would probably punch the material, but I am so spoiled with the thread cutter and the knee lift on my industrial.

FWIW black 2" non sticky back "Velcro" style hook and loop is available cheap on ebay, and Amazon is a little more money.

 

[raftingtigger]

I just noticed you used a zig zag stitch. What sewing machine are you using?

FWIW black 2" non sticky back "Velcro" style hook and loop is available cheap on ebay, and Amazon is a little more money.

Standard household sewing machine. The zig-zag stitching is just to prevent fraying. There are several other methods. Overlock machines work great. Seam and edging in one pass. The other method is to sear all the cut edges. Just run a flame lightly along the edge and it will prevent the fraying.

As for the velcro. You only need 8" to make a pair. Probably easier and cheaper to go to your local fabric store, or if you need to order the cordura, do it at the same time and combine shipping. The only place I have found the cordura is online (Seattle Fabrics, Rockywoods.com, etc.) I wish I could find a local supplier as shipping is expensive.

While I'm at it I'll post my plans for the thigh pocket (soon). It uses the same cordura. My wing plans don't need anything that heavy, but it would work there. You might as well order enough at one time. Another source is to dismantle a old backpack or heavy duty duffle bag.

 

[fjpatrum]

My thigh pocket is actually quite similar in construction to your weight pocket. http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/making-your-own-gear/415147-homegrown-thigh-pocket.html

I only want a clip because all the velcro weight pockets I've seen have fatigued over time and the velcro doesn't work so well. I buy 2 inch wide velcro by the foot at Joanne fabrics. (I also buy cordura there, occasionally, but not all locations carry the heavy weight stuff.) Seattle fabrics is usually cheaper (before shipping) anyway. I buy a bunch of things together to try and reduce shipping costs when I buy from Seattle fabrics so, in the end, I get more for less.