OP
Larry Horne
Guest
Correct on all counts. Good leads.
Lar
Lar
DPV Construction Begun
- Thread starter Larry Horne
- Start date
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OP
Larry Horne
Guest
Motor Modification
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OK, yesterday was modify motor day. Photos attached of the portions of the motor I cut away (end cap, skeg,a nd housing mount).
These were cut off with a hack saw then trued up on a belt sander. I'm using JB weld to fill the old electrical outlet hole. I've hand cut the openings for the 4.7mm holes so that they can be reached from the back side to bolt on a dust cover and bolt the unit to the vehicle.
End
View attachment 26280
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OK, yesterday was modify motor day. Photos attached of the portions of the motor I cut away (end cap, skeg,a nd housing mount).
These were cut off with a hack saw then trued up on a belt sander. I'm using JB weld to fill the old electrical outlet hole. I've hand cut the openings for the 4.7mm holes so that they can be reached from the back side to bolt on a dust cover and bolt the unit to the vehicle.
End
OP
Larry Horne
Guest
Motor Mod Done and Housing Begun
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The motor housing rear section is complete, all unnecessary parts removed and the holes repaired, filled and painted.
I have begun construction of the body or housing section.laying the fiberglass over the 10" tube I constructed out of poster board. I used 10" foam ribs to hold the shape while its curing. These will be removed later. I need to find a 10" half circle now to complete the design.
Tomorrow I will build the housing for the motor itself..............i plan to have it so that it allows cold water to flow into the motor housing to cool it ahile submerged.
Stay tuned.
View attachment 26350
View attachment 26351
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View attachment 26353
The motor housing rear section is complete, all unnecessary parts removed and the holes repaired, filled and painted.
I have begun construction of the body or housing section.laying the fiberglass over the 10" tube I constructed out of poster board. I used 10" foam ribs to hold the shape while its curing. These will be removed later. I need to find a 10" half circle now to complete the design.
Tomorrow I will build the housing for the motor itself..............i plan to have it so that it allows cold water to flow into the motor housing to cool it ahile submerged.
Stay tuned.
OP
Larry Horne
Guest
With proper ribs, depths of 150' or greater should not be an issue. The composite material is as strong or stronger than metal. The ribs of the battery compartment should provide the ridigity necessary to handle the pressures of depth.
Larry, what are you building there, a model airplane?
Hey, looks good, your cooking along. I cannot wait to see a finished picture. N
Hey, looks good, your cooking along. I cannot wait to see a finished picture. N
jgarysmith
Guest
We are waiting for more pictures and a progress report. When will you plan on putting in it the water?
OP
Larry Horne
Guest
Construction Status
Progress is steady but laying layers of fiberglass takes time. Here are a couple of shots of the body, nose cone, and motor housing, all taking shape.
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Once the motor housing is of adequate size and strength I will begin construction on the stern section.
Lar
Progress is steady but laying layers of fiberglass takes time. Here are a couple of shots of the body, nose cone, and motor housing, all taking shape.
View attachment 27052
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Once the motor housing is of adequate size and strength I will begin construction on the stern section.
Lar
OP
Larry Horne
Guest
Body, Motor Housing and Stern Section
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OK, still laying cloth and determining details as I go along. Attached are some of the latest photos of the body. I have the majority of it completed. The portion I have to pay close attention to is the mating surface of the bottom and the mating surface of the stern section. I will hand work the interior of the body such that I can place an o-ring on the 10 inch diameter portion and it will make good contact with the internals of the body. Then there will be an o-ring at the top hopefully giving me a dual seal.
Both the stern section and the sealing ring of the body have to have some solid surface on the parameter to screw the latch clamps to, thus the aluminum inserts along the sides. These will not me seen once all of the glass is laid.
The other photos show the motor housing or tube that will be inserted into the stern section and secured.
End
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OK, still laying cloth and determining details as I go along. Attached are some of the latest photos of the body. I have the majority of it completed. The portion I have to pay close attention to is the mating surface of the bottom and the mating surface of the stern section. I will hand work the interior of the body such that I can place an o-ring on the 10 inch diameter portion and it will make good contact with the internals of the body. Then there will be an o-ring at the top hopefully giving me a dual seal.
Both the stern section and the sealing ring of the body have to have some solid surface on the parameter to screw the latch clamps to, thus the aluminum inserts along the sides. These will not me seen once all of the glass is laid.
The other photos show the motor housing or tube that will be inserted into the stern section and secured.
End
willydiver
Guest
Larry,
Can you give some details (pictures if you have them) on how you plan to run the motor wiring? The trolling motors are a readily obtainable source for a strong 12volt motor, but I was aggrivated that I couldn't remedy the wires running through the motor mast tube.
I started a thread under the DIY section a while back on my MkI scooter if you want to check out another one. My next version will have the motor completely contained within the main body with the shaft exiting a stern plate with urethane seals. (Side note: the battery compartment and the motor HAVE to be separated by an airtight divider to keep hydrogen exhausted from the discharging batteries from coming into contact with sparks produced inside the motor).
A design with the motor enclosed within the main body will make a much simpler and cleaner looking scooter. After all, iterating down to the simplest functional design is the goal. For me at least.
Thanks,
Will
Can you give some details (pictures if you have them) on how you plan to run the motor wiring? The trolling motors are a readily obtainable source for a strong 12volt motor, but I was aggrivated that I couldn't remedy the wires running through the motor mast tube.
I started a thread under the DIY section a while back on my MkI scooter if you want to check out another one. My next version will have the motor completely contained within the main body with the shaft exiting a stern plate with urethane seals. (Side note: the battery compartment and the motor HAVE to be separated by an airtight divider to keep hydrogen exhausted from the discharging batteries from coming into contact with sparks produced inside the motor).
A design with the motor enclosed within the main body will make a much simpler and cleaner looking scooter. After all, iterating down to the simplest functional design is the goal. For me at least.
Thanks,
Will
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