Drysuit Inflator Valve

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

DaveP

Registered
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
SE Michigan
So I recently purchased a used drysuit (DUI Army) that has an inflator value of the non-spinning variety and of course it's pointing to the wrong (for me) side. The valve works fine, I just need to rotate 90 degrees. Is this something I can do myself, having never done drysuit repairs? I've read that these valves are sometimes (always?) glued, and also have read about the rubber portals that are often installed. My valve does have what appears to be a rubber washer of sorts on the inside, but the outside of the valve contacts the suit directly - what's the likelihood of there being glue involved?

Also, is there a special tool or technique used to move these, or do I just need to apply more force in an "unscrewing motion" than I was willing to try before?
 
DaveP:
So I recently purchased a used drysuit (DUI Army) that has an inflator value of the non-spinning variety and of course it's pointing to the wrong (for me) side. The valve works fine, I just need to rotate 90 degrees. Is this something I can do myself, having never done drysuit repairs? I've read that these valves are sometimes (always?) glued, and also have read about the rubber portals that are often installed. My valve does have what appears to be a rubber washer of sorts on the inside, but the outside of the valve contacts the suit directly - what's the likelihood of there being glue involved?

Also, is there a special tool or technique used to move these, or do I just need to apply more force in an "unscrewing motion" than I was willing to try before?

Dry suit valves are expensive!
As a rule like all diy stuff as long as you can afford to get it fixed if you break it or seal the leak.... go for it.
OR
put the hose on the reg on the other side so its route is not a strech
OR
Take it in the store to get sorted if any of the above worries you.
 
some (the better) valves are rotating(swiveled) but if it isnt then dont screw with it and instead route your hose the other way.
 
DaveP:
So I recently purchased a used drysuit (DUI Army) that has an inflator value of the non-spinning variety and of course it's pointing to the wrong (for me) side. The valve works fine, I just need to rotate 90 degrees. Is this something I can do myself, having never done drysuit repairs? I've read that these valves are sometimes (always?) glued, and also have read about the rubber portals that are often installed. My valve does have what appears to be a rubber washer of sorts on the inside, but the outside of the valve contacts the suit directly - what's the likelihood of there being glue involved?

Also, is there a special tool or technique used to move these, or do I just need to apply more force in an "unscrewing motion" than I was willing to try before?


First recommendation would be to bring it into a store - a service tech will be able to do it for you in 30 seconds.

If not, you can unscrew it. Valves are usually made more water-tight by a layer of silicone caulking on the threads. So, you have to break the caulking in order to take it apart. The valve is made up of three parts - the top (containing the inlet), the washer, and the bottom. Grab the top with one hand and the bottom with the other and twist in opposite directions. Takes a bit of muscle, but shouldn't be too difficult. Once its apart, and you've placed the inlet where you want it, you will want to clean out the old silicone from the threads. Once its free of debris, put a thin layer of new silicone caulking on the threads and around the base of the valve. then connect the top and the bottom of the valve, let dry and cure for 24 hours. DON'T use Aquaseal as it's way too stiff - regular clear silicone caulking from the hardware store.

Again, much less hassle to have a service tech do this, and most will do this free of charge as a customer service thing.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom