Help with first flood

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Ed,

Reviving a small P&S camera and being sure the lens elements aren't screwed up, zoom electronics and circuitry actually still works, etc. is a waste of time :(

Electronics + Salt Water + Battery acid = dead camera :(

The less expensive close fiitting brand name housings look like a bargain, until something like this happens........Small space means temperature inside from the flash firing, humidity inside and / or if you change it rapidly like cool water immersion after being out in a hot environment, leaving it in the sun even for a short time, etc. can cause an o-ring to leak. Quickly.......

I have no idea where the idea of "soaking" any plastic and stainless steel controls housing for hours on end got so popular. The rinse tank is the most dangerous place for ANY housing due to low pressure on all o-rings, and most leaving it unattended canceling any chance to even catch a flood.

I advocate a 60 second "shake and bake" gentle agitation while pushing (or turning) controls to flush out salt water. You'll never get it all out with some staying in there for 1-2 weeks......But you'll get 95% + out of there in 90 seconds.

Everyone seems to want a close fitting, cheap housing versus something with a tad more room for the possibility of saving your camera from a flood. Doesn't seem to make sense to me in the long run. Once you've bought a decent housing cameras even if eclipsed by newer models are always available on the used market. At a significant drop in price, too!

Finally, no manufacturer's cheapie housings will have a decent flash bulkhead offering anything like true TTL for the likes of the Canon G7 and G9, or Nikon 5000 and P5100. The Olympus flash bulkheads were notorious for welding themselves shut, unless you constantly maintained it with grease. Plus it is a proprietary cord only able to be used with their crappy flash housing containing a pea shooter size flash that won't put out past 2'.

Don't mean to rant, just telling it as I've seen the last 6 years since converting to digital. Seen and used lots of housings and cameras :)

dhaas

David Haas Underwater Photography
 
Ed,

Reviving a small P&S camera and being sure the lens elements aren't screwed up, zoom electronics and circuitry actually still works, etc. is a waste of time :(

Electronics + Salt Water + Battery acid = dead camera :(

The less expensive close fiitting brand name housings look like a bargain, until something like this happens........Small space means temperature inside from the flash firing, humidity inside and / or if you change it rapidly like cool water immersion after being out in a hot environment, leaving it in the sun even for a short time, etc. can cause an o-ring to leak. Quickly.......

I have no idea where the idea of "soaking" any plastic and stainless steel controls housing for hours on end got so popular. The rinse tank is the most dangerous place for ANY housing due to low pressure on all o-rings, and most leaving it unattended canceling any chance to even catch a flood.

I advocate a 60 second "shake and bake" gentle agitation while pushing (or turning) controls to flush out salt water. You'll never get it all out with some staying in there for 1-2 weeks......But you'll get 95% + out of there in 90 seconds.

Everyone seems to want a close fitting, cheap housing versus something with a tad more room for the possibility of saving your camera from a flood. Doesn't seem to make sense to me in the long run. Once you've bought a decent housing cameras even if eclipsed by newer models are always available on the used market. At a significant drop in price, too!

Finally, no manufacturer's cheapie housings will have a decent flash bulkhead offering anything like true TTL for the likes of the Canon G7 and G9, or Nikon 5000 and P5100. The Olympus flash bulkheads were notorious for welding themselves shut, unless you constantly maintained it with grease. Plus it is a proprietary cord only able to be used with their crappy flash housing containing a pea shooter size flash that won't put out past 2'.

Don't mean to rant, just telling it as I've seen the last 6 years since converting to digital. Seen and used lots of housings and cameras :)

dhaas

David Haas Underwater Photography


Thanks David! I guess it's time for my next and more favorite camera and an Ikelite housing. :D
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom