Hid care tips

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I can tell you what to do with NiMH batteries... but I don't know anything about what proceedure to follow with the Li ions. It would probably be best if you asked Dwain what Salvo recommends.
 
Stephen Ash:
I can tell you what to do with NiMH batteries... but I don't know anything about what proceedure to follow with the Li ions. It would probably be best if you asked Dwain what Salvo recommends.


How about posting what to do with a flooded cannister with NiMH batteries, for the benefit of those us without Dilithium ion batteries?
 
Inspect your cannister after every dive. Be aware that there may be some normal condensation inside. This does not suggest a leak. Condensation will be a fine mist layer or tiny droplets along the walls. A flood will most likely pool water in the bottom. If you suspect a leak try to find the source. Inspect the areas around the switch and gland nut and make note where you believe it is leaking.

If you are sure that it has flooded, disconnect the battery and remove the pack. Rinse the pack with running fresh water. Try not to get water in the top of the pack.

If there was at least a half of inch of water in the bottom of the cannister, your best bet at this point is to remove the shrink wrap. Make a small nick at one end being careful not to damage the batteries, then peel back the wrap. Most packs will have silicone glue at each end... sometimes this will be under a capping piece of plastic. Peel that back as well to expose both ends pf the pack. Scrape off the glue and cut the wires close to the tab. Cut just the wires... don't damage the tab.

After you have removed the wrap, the plastic end caps and glue, and the wires, thoroughly rinse with running fresh water... be sure to rinse down thru the center of the pack. After rinsing well, dry by blowing cool air over and thru the pack. You can use a hair dryer but be sure to not use hot air. You can also blow it out with some air from your cylinder.

I've read that some guys suggest rinsing with rubbing alcohol after rinsing with water. They recommend flushing several times using it to displace the water. It also will dry clean without leaving any contaminants that may later cause corrosion. I suppose that if you have some handy then it might be a good idea.

Before rewrapping your battery (you can order shrink wrap on line) do a burn test. If it has a good burn time, re-solder the wires and re-wrap. Use standard glue sticks and a glue gun for the caps. Now write "backup" on the outside and order a new pack. Sooner or later this one's gonna fail.

Also... if your cannister and battery are still under warranty you may not want to remove the shrink wrap. If the leak was a result of a defect covered by the warranty, the manufacturer will probably replace the battery at no charge... but only if you haven't tampered with it.

The above recommendations... everything except the alcohol idea... were included with the instructions that came with my light... a 9 amp 21 watt NiMH made by Howard Sandrof.
 
D_O_H:
I'd worry about transporting the light with the battery plugged in. If the switch accidentally gets hit, you're going to have a dead battery or, worse, melted/burnt stuff.

Please keep the suggestions coming, by the way. I also recently bought a HID and have been looking for a thread like this too.
Just remember to connect it before the dive (it get embarrasing after the second or third time)
 
Stephen Ash:
Inspect your cannister after every dive. Be aware that there may be some normal condensation inside. This does not suggest a leak. Condensation will be a fine mist layer or tiny droplets along the walls. A flood will most likely pool water in the bottom. If you suspect a leak try to find the source. Inspect the areas around the switch and gland nut and make note where you believe it is leaking.

If you are sure that it has flooded, disconnect the battery and remove the pack. Rinse the pack with running fresh water. Try not to get water in the top of the pack.

If there was at least a half of inch of water in the bottom of the cannister, your best bet at this point is to remove the shrink wrap. Make a small nick at one end being careful not to damage the batteries, then peel back the wrap. Most packs will have silicone glue at each end... sometimes this will be under a capping piece of plastic. Peel that back as well to expose both ends pf the pack. Scrape off the glue and cut the wires close to the tab. Cut just the wires... don't damage the tab.

After you have removed the wrap, the plastic end caps and glue, and the wires, thoroughly rinse with running fresh water... be sure to rinse down thru the center of the pack. After rinsing well, dry by blowing cool air over and thru the pack. You can use a hair dryer but be sure to not use hot air. You can also blow it out with some air from your cylinder.

I've read that some guys suggest rinsing with rubbing alcohol after rinsing with water. They recommend flushing several times using it to displace the water. It also will dry clean without leaving any contaminants that may later cause corrosion. I suppose that if you have some handy then it might be a good idea.

Before rewrapping your battery (you can order shrink wrap on line) do a burn test. If it has a good burn time, re-solder the wires and re-wrap. Use standard glue sticks and a glue gun for the caps. Now write "backup" on the outside and order a new pack. Sooner or later this one's gonna fail.

Also... if your cannister and battery are still under warranty you may not want to remove the shrink wrap. If the leak was a result of a defect covered by the warranty, the manufacturer will probably replace the battery at no charge... but only if you haven't tampered with it.

The above recommendations... everything except the alcohol idea... were included with the instructions that came with my light... a 9 amp 21 watt NiMH made by Howard Sandrof.

I thought it looked familiar... was reading this and it was like 'I know these words'
 
wedivebc:
Just remember to connect it before the dive (it get embarrasing after the second or third time)
Amen on that one. I turn the HID on when I am heading to the water. This way I make sure it works and the battery is plugged in before I get to the water. It stinks getting in the water and then having to climb back out infront of everyone because you forgot to hook up the battery.

Matt
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom