Hollis 16W LED

[DaMaDo]

Is the LiPo bigger? Do you have any pictures? Would be interesting to see.

Mine lasts a little over 3.5 hours.

I'm wondering if I should go LiPo or the longer 18650s.

 

[skankpile]

I think its about the same size; I don't want to take it out as everything is working, sealed well, and I would just risk fouling a perfectly good system.

The LiIon have a better density, are superior in many ways, and you should be able to get more burn time from them, but they are just so darn expensive. I use 18650 cells with internal cutt-off protection (ultrafire) for some of my other lights.


If you got the skills put together a 3s4p pack with these, maybe 3s5p if it would fit:

low voltage protected
Ultrafire 18650 2400mah BUTTON TOP Protected Rechargeable Lithium Battery Li-Ion UF18650

or these for a pack:
unprotected
http://www.batteryjunction.com/li18recyba31.html
thats 11.1v 5,200mah for $50... hard to beat that.

If you make a funky staggered 3s3p pack with these http://www.batteryjunction.com/ultrafire-brc-18650.html it would be the canister of the gods.

I think the monkey electronics will monitor the voltage of the pack and flash when the voltage gets too low.

 

[DaMaDo]

Thanks!

I wish I knew how to put these things together myself

 

[skankpile]

hahaha.. if you are brave to take apart a $1000 light you can make a battery pack :cool2:

-buy 9 cells...the ones with the tabs
-solder 3 cells in series + to - (soldering only the tabs together as they don't like heat) for 3 X 3.7v =11.1v, and solder a wire form the first + and another wire from the last -, don't connect
-parallel the 3 sets of 3, to triple mAh (soldering the + wires to the - wires)
-shrinkwrap, or go ghetto with the electrical tape
-attach the ganged + & - battery wires to terminals
-reseal, and make sure batt is secure in compartment so your soldering will not fatigue/fail. Light monkey uses hi tech surplus cardboard for this purpose
-go dive...

 

[DaMaDo]

Thanks, that doesn't sound too bad, but what about the circuit board to prevent overcharge and that will keep the light at full brightness until cut off?

It seems some have the PCB built in for individual use but it won't work if assembled in a pack. These would work.

 

[skankpile]

Yep, I think the light head has the electronics to monitor the voltage drop. But for the pack I would definitely use the unregulated cells.

 

[BB1]

Thanks for the description - I am electron challaenged but mechanically adept so your simple steps helped!

1 question though about what's highlighted below - isn't that wired in serial again???

I thought positive to positive and negative to negative was parallel wiring??

You have given me confidence to have a go at wiring a pack myself though so thanks!

hahaha.. if you are brave to take apart a $1000 light you can make a battery pack :cool2:

-buy 9 cells...the ones with the tabs
-solder 3 cells in series + to - (soldering only the tabs together as they don't like heat) for 3 X 3.7v =11.1v, and solder a wire form the first + and another wire from the last -, don't connect
-parallel the 3 sets of 3, to triple mAh (soldering the + wires to the - wires)
-shrinkwrap, or go ghetto with the electrical tape
-attach the ganged + & - battery wires to terminals
-reseal, and make sure batt is secure in compartment so your soldering will not fatigue/fail. Light monkey uses hi tech surplus cardboard for this purpose
-go dive...

 

[skankpile]

yep, good catch.. + to + and - to - for parallel

 

[lucca brassi]

to not repeat myself )

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/5748025-post7.html