I give up, best macro setup for S90

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I would say here is a nice wish list to look at:

Canon S95,
Fix S95 Housing (when it comes out)

Subsee 5x Diopter, 10x Diopter or 2x Inon UCL165 67mm thread (the Inon option allows you to stack lenses)(Subsee lenses are on back order and you would have to order now to recieve them closer to Jan)

Inon D2000 Stobes x2 and arms, tray. I got a good deal on arms and tray for 2 strobes from Optical Ocean. (Also consider S&S YS-01)

Inon Wide Angle 165 and you may need to buy a 67mm to AD adapter from 10 Bar.

Also look at a lens caddy to hold one or both lenses when not in use.
 
There is no best setup. The most important equipment for macro photography is between your ears. It's mostly up to the photographer to use his/her experience shooting, full mastery of his equipment, and a little luck sometimes. We all have a tendency to be gear heads, I know I do. It's better in my opinion to shoot with what you have, to the best of your ability.

I don't think you need anything beyond the camera and housing to do macro in shallow water. Deeper, strobes are a must.

The S90 has essentially just been obsoleted by the S95, same price, more features. So, buying new, start there (or maybe, take advantage of all the people dumping their S90s on ebay and get a cheap one!). Looking at the specs on the Canon website, I don't see any improvements that really matter to me. Note that it has the same lens, so essentially the same close focus distance of 2 inches from the lens, maybe 1.5 inches from your housing? That's only at the wide angle, I never can get it to close focus on tele. That's plenty close, because you need some space to aim your stobes. I think if you put a 6 diopter macro lens on (like the popular Inon 165), you can focus with the tele closer.

You can try a wet macro lens, if you have a way to mount it on your housing. Each housing has its own methods. The standard +6 diopter Inon 165 is all I would want; more magnification gives away too much depth of field to be practical. I've tried a +20 diopter lens, it was a challenge to do anything useful with it. Maybe on Pygmy seahorses?

How you focus is important. With macro, you have almost no depth of field, so be sure to focus on the key feature of your subject (usually the eye) and try to keep its body in the plane of focus.

On the S90, I set AF Frame to Center, and Small. The camera always seems to find the wrong subject to focus on, so I essentially force it to spot focus and recompose.

You may want to manual focus. That uses the rear dial, or if you have the Canon or Ikelite housing, the combination of the S button held down and the left or right arrow buttons. Memorize all that, so you can set it quickly when that once in a lifetime macro shot appears.

I mentioned lighting. You don't need a powerful strobe for macro, but you need to be able to reduce it's output, either manually or using TTL control or a diffuser. A ring flash might be ideal, if you can afford it. Some don't like the flat lighting of a ring flash, personal preference, but it gets even light for sure. I'd experiment before you dive, in a pool, to see what works best for you.
 
Peter, hello, I am certainly more than a little impressed with the Oly outfit since handling one for real in GC. My only concern now, and it applies to fisheye/wild angle fans like myself, the Oly ELP-1 has a max DFOV even with the beautiful Zen dome of about 100 degrees DFOV vs 165 degrees DFOV with the FIX90 and UWL-04. That is a deal killer for me, but, not for others, certainly true. For macro and portraits, head and shoulder shots, the Oly has the S90 beat considerably IMO.
...
James
It's just a start James, but the Oly E-PL1 setup already has quite a few options, including the capability to use a lot (if not all) of the Oly 4/3rds SLR ports and lenses including fisheye lenses using the Athena port adapter. I'm guessing just a matter of a few months before we see a micro 4/3rds version of some of those.
I will try my UWL-100 to see how much I need to zoom in on the kit lens to minimize vignetting. My guess is to about 17 (35 equiv) which is what it is designed for. That should get me to 100 degrees with the kit lens. I have the zen dome too, which gets 75 degrees with the kit lens, perfect for video (I like to do video, I understand you don't), being a good match for a lot of the video lights.
With the add-on dome for the UWL-100 greater than 100 should be possible, but not up to 165. That is uber-wide. Should be fun testing it, but I'm not sure I'll go the wet lens route. One nice thing about the Oly E-PL1 is that it can leverage interchangable camera lenses as well as wet lenses.

Here are some links to what is available now using the Athena adapter.

http://www.athena-opt.com/E-PL1_chart04_for%20Olympus.pdf

http://www.athena-opt.com/PT-EP01.html

PS. Sorry to hear about the broken femur.
 
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