I Need a camera for research

[Mark Derail]

Here's an idea - make a lightbox - a big (say 2 feet by 2 feet) plexiglass cube. One side of the cube is completely open.
The opposite side a hole just for putting the camera lens in.

The strobes are outside the cube, and perhaps not necessary, if multiple UW flashlights are used around the cube, all pointing "in".

The cube will stabilize the water inside, so for macro / closeups, water won't be drifting. If you wait a few mins, would settle. No need for using a flash / strobe, thus no backscatter. The LED flashlights are cheap - I recommend alkalines, so should water seep in, electrolysis won't kick in (as much) though it being freshwater, perhaps not a problem.

Use aquarium "glue" which is basically silicone, and your local Home Hardware will cut (say 1$ per cut) your plexi accurately for you. Then make risers for the flashlights to "sit" on for perhaps a 30-45 degree angle. Or just put them on the same side as the cam pointing "in".

I would use a minimum of four flashlights, and have a fifth one for shining a particular spot / mussel.

Also, the camera might want to "float" - be sure to use some weights to make it neutral. The box will want to sink slowly, the camera will want to float.

I also suggest a cheap P&S like a S100 or S95.

Another idea - photo wise - take multiple macro shots - and stitch them together - to make an extra big picture, much like Nasa + Hubble do. Don't have to buy photoshop, free GIMP or Paint.Net work well.

 

[diversteve]

I need to be able to take closeup pictures of Zebra Mussel formations

Define closeup i.e. 3 feet or 3 inches - because what Mark posted applies. If you need macro I'd go back to a housed camera and strobes. The depth is going to make that costly though probably.

 

[LakerPride]

I mean close as in 3-4 inches. But like I said I also need wide angle for perspective.
@Mark, that is an outstanding idea, I have some acrylic left over from a tank I made. Great Idea thanks, when I get done building it I'll post pictures of it for you

 

[Mark Derail]

I'd also include a ruler made of material, like the ones used for measuring our waist.

So you can wrap partially around the cube, and in every pic have a scale.

The ruler, being perfect straight in your shot, will also help you later for adjusting the vignetting effect caused by (some) wide angle lenses.

ie, the curves, or curving around the edges. Straight ruler won't be straight. With the photo editing software you can fix.

Just need to figure out a latching mechanism for the soft material ruler. Perhaps using a hole-punch, and the "open" end has notches made with a dremel, that the ruler attaches to.

I'd make a few anchor points up & down along both sides, making sure they are plumb.

 

[LakerPride]

I wonder what the buoyancy of this contraption will be with acrylic? Do you Think I will need to offset it either positively or negatively? I think i'll make sure it's quite negative, to help with stability on the bottom, then just send it up with my lift bag when I'm done.

 

[Mark Derail]

The acrylic box, filled with water, will be negative. The camera though will probably be positive. I mentioned previously; you will want to add weights to the camera, so that everything sinks evenly.

I'd use a long 12" x 1/2" bolt, and add nuts screwed in until "just right".