Inon D-2000 vs D-2000S

[Mystic]

Going to Cozumel in July, want to start taking UW pictures there!
I have a Fuji e900 with Ikelite housing

" If " I buy a strobe, I want one that's gonna last me, the INON strobes got my attention for now

The thing is, I am on a really tight budget (the kinda budget that force me to walk from the airport to my hotel instead of taking a cab)

Now, the D-2000S has all the power and performance of the D-2000 strobe, but without a Focus Light or External Auto Mode

Focus Light & External Auto Mode: is it worth the extra 80$ ?

Or can I look for a D-2000s without regrets?

P.S.
I would be making a DIY tray and arm, so I'd need to figure out a way to "hold" the strobe onto the unit.. I can't find a good enough picture of the underside of the strobe.. can anybody help me figure a way to attach this strobe to a DIY arm?!

 

[Larry C]

The D-2000s is slave only, the D-2000w can be used with a converter. I don't know if Ikelites converter works with the Inon or just their own strobe. If not, the DS-125 is another excellent choice and works well with Ikelites housing. The light is nice to have, more important on deep dives and in dark water. You can use a dive light as a spotting light if you don't get it.
Inon's mount is a special set-up held on with a screw. They make a ball mount for it to go with the ULCS arm set ups or a loc-line adaptor if you're using that. They typically cost around $20. I used the ball type adapter and a ULCS type double clamp and a loc-line ball adapter on the arm. The clamp was another $20, as was the loc-line ball adaptor, so I ended up with about $60 into that. If you're using loc-line, I'd just get the direct loc-line to Inon adapter. Otherwise, get a ball end for your DIY set-up and get the ball adapter and clamp.

 

[gaudencio]

Hi larry,
one question, no auto off mode, what does it mean for the d2000s.
I am also choosing what to buy from the two.strobe.

thanks Jimmy

 

[Larry C]

On the older models with spotting lights, they turned off briefly when the strobe fired, as does the Sea & Sea YS-110. The newer model does not do this. The light stays on when the strobe fires.

 

[lukeROB]

Ok - simple answer. Get the D2000S and save the money.

The focus light is good but I have used both the D180S and the Z220S which do not have them and have never really wished I had a focus light on the strobe head. I hooked up a dive torch for when I used it at night.

BTW the only difference to the D2000 here is the focus light everything else will be identical.

I can send you a picture of the connection point and I suspect it would be pretty easy to DIY something to connect it to whatever you plan on using. I have and Inon Gripbase tray if you are interested and cant be bothered trying to DIY. PM me and I'm sure we can arrange something.

 

[alo100]

I knew that 2000S is a slave strobe, then I did a simple compare between 2000 and 2000S:

The difference for 2000S comparing to 2000 is the Auto Exposure...
and I found some comments related:

"Some strobes have be designed with an integrated 'auto sensor' to aid the user in determining appropriate strobe output. This type of auto strobe is combined with the ability to fine tune the strobes intensity through an exposure compensation (EV) control.

By defining 'manual' as a preset output of light, independent of any sensor reading on the strobes part, we believe that 'Auto Strobes' should not be considered as having true manual strobe settings."

 

[alo100]

I knew that 2000S is a slave strobe, then I did a simple compare between 2000 and 2000S:

The difference for 2000S comparing to 2000 is the Auto Exposure...

http://www.digitaldiver.net/strobes.php

and I found some comments related:

"Some strobes have be designed with an integrated 'auto sensor' to aid the user in determining appropriate strobe output. This type of auto strobe is combined with the ability to fine tune the strobes intensity through an exposure compensation (EV) control.

By defining 'manual' as a preset output of light, independent of any sensor reading on the strobes part, we believe that 'Auto Strobes' should not be considered as having true manual strobe settings."

 

[bobf]

........
"Some strobes have be designed with an integrated 'auto sensor' to aid the user in determining appropriate strobe output. This type of auto strobe is combined with the ability to fine tune the strobes intensity through an exposure compensation (EV) control.

By defining 'manual' as a preset output of light, independent of any sensor reading on the strobes part, we believe that 'Auto Strobes' should not be considered as having true manual strobe settings."

The above quote (including spelling error) comes from the StrobeFinder:

http://www.digitaldiver.net/strobes.php

It can be found in a pop up explanation regarding Auto Exposure. The explanation was written to address the Auto Exposure characteristics of the INON D180S. The D 180S had no "fully independent" manual controls. It did however allow the user to "manually fine tune" its' auto exposure mode in half step increments (10 steps). The quote explains why we felt the D 180S should be classified specifically as a strobe offering the user Auto capabilities but not "fully independent" Manual Settings (the user's only capabilities are to "tweak" a decision the strobe had primary control over).

The D 2000S, as mentioned, does not offer the user an Auto Exposure Mode. Therefore the quote above does not apply. As mentioned, the D 2000S does not offer a target light. The D 2000S does offer a 13 step manual mode option.

The D 2000 does offer Auto Exposure (24 step). It also offers the user the 13 step "fully independent" manual mode option. It also offers a target light.

The D 180S is discontinued.

To use Auto Exposure, the user matches the aperture value setting found on the strobe with that chosen on the camera (if you choose f/4 on the camera, set the strobe to f/4). If the user then feels a need to "tweak" the strobe's output, they may alter the light intensity by choosing another aperture value on the strobe.

In order to increase accuracy of the strobe's Auto Exposure system, the strobe should be aimed directly at the intended target. This is to insure that the light emanating from the strobe will bounce back off the target and be "collected and measured" by the sensor found in the strobe head. Once the strobe decides that the "pre-determined" amount of light has been received back, it "automatically" shuts down.

hth,
b

 

[alo100]

Ah, thanks, more clear now. So the slave strobe can be used as a manual strobe.
Also, I noticed that typo when I read it too, just I wanted to keep the full quote.

The question becomes, if I need a manual strobe, does it has to be Inon 2000S?
I believe that there are many other manual strobes with a bit lower price.

I am sure most people who are used to manual strobe wouldn't mind about taking a pic with exp upper and lower, esp it's all digital now. But how about adding a bit, only a bit more and rely on the S-TTL to enjoy the one-shot? Esp for those fast moving creatures.

 

[lukeROB]

It is more that this strobe can be used as a slave