Lembeh Resort Trip Report, Christmas 2012

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The Diving

Our limited experience in muck-diving, our interest in critter hunting and macro photography and the weird and the wacky--all this led me to believe that we would LOVE the diving at Lembeh. And we did.

However, when you jump off the boat at one of the classic muck dive, i.e. Hairball, what greets you is desolate and bleak. (Assuming you can see anything.) Seriously, it looks like a nuclear wasteland--and the weird critters you find are products of the nuclear holocaust. Black sand, seemingly devoid of life, some trash (although not as much as I had thought there would be) and an occasional clump of coral fighting for its life. Yeah, it is kind of grim. But amazing that there would be so much life--diversity of life--on such a bleak landscape. There are creatures who can adapt to any environment and learn to thrive. Yeah, Darwin!

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stonefish on a halfshell.jpgpygmy cuttlefish.jpgburrfishclose.jpgcrocodile fish with friend.jpg
Most dive sites, however, were not the classic all-muck. It seemed like the typical dive site would be described thusly: Descend to 70-80' (the deepest I ever went was 103') through black sand, then some rubble, and end in the shallows with a nice amount of coral. I know people don't come to Lembeh to see pretty fish on pretty coral--there are better places in Indonesia for that--but it was nice to see the wrasses, the triggers, and the stunningly gorgeous Bangaii cardinalfish after a dive of black sand and rubble. It felt like a frothy dessert after a big and heavy meal.

banggai cardinalfish.jpgcandycrab1.jpgporcelain crab1.jpgtiger shrimp.jpgpygmy eye.jpg
 

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Frogfish I have known and loved

We saw such a wide variety of critters, that it would be easier to tell you what we didn't see--the Sargassum Frogfish eluded us, but I think we saw every other variety of frogfish--the Painted, the Giant, the Clown, the Hairy (short and longhair)--and in nearly every color you can think of. Awesome!

Unfortunately, our son, the photographer, was sick on the day we say THREE Giant frogfish, all living together, check to jowl (why would they do that, I wonder?) suddenly get up and start SWIMMING. I never even knew they could actually SWIM!

frogfish swimming.jpgcamo frog.jpghairball.jpgorangepaintedfrogfish2.jpg
baby painted frogfish cropped.jpgblack giant.jpggiant yellowish.jpg
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The Critters

As active as squid are at night, feeding, apparently they do their mating in the daytime. We came upon a bunch of them laying their tube-like eggs. Our amazing dive guide, Ewan B., was also adept at finding several coconut shells filled with the eggs of the Flamboyant Cuttlefish; we actually saw one of them hatch!

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The nudis were also laying eggs--and then there was this peacock mantis shrimp:

mantis peacock with eggs.jpg
 
Outstanding report. Thank you. I took copious notes throughout our trip, but somehow never got around to posting a report. We spent only 4 days in Lembeh and wish we had spent much more. Interesting, though, that night dives were the highlight of our stay - we did 5 in the 3 available nights we had. Everything you had to say positive about Lembeh Resort, I can say about Black Sand - based on that and so many other reports, it must be hard to find one that does not cater to diver's needs. Again, thanks for the detailed report.
 
Yes, I thought that was odd, too, WetLens. I was with my son, who normally LOVES night dives, but...perhaps we were just unlucky? Of course, he was disappointed there weren't any predators about (of any size) and the UV light show just didn't do it for me.

14 days might have been a bit too long, but 4 days is definitely not long enough! Give us your report! With photos!
 
Hey, we were there at Lembeh Resort, Boxing Day to NY Eve... Were at Murex Bangka from 22 Dec, arranged for boat transfer, so that we could dive on the way but they said the wind was unfavourable. We had 2 days of rain, surge at Bangka, still managed to dive. :) Too bad Buyat is closed for the holidays, else it could be a good alternative to the "endless black" sand... It was our 3rd time in Lembeh and still no mimic octopus and stargazer - cursed perhaps!
For those who don't like stairs, the garden rooms are just great! No view of the ocean at all but very convenient, 20metres to the restaurant...
Did I hear correctly that there is no traffic in S'pore?! haahaa, I guess you had been lucky and maybe because you walked. :) So glad to hear that you enjoyed Singapore too... ;-) "Tried those BBQ sheets of pork (name?)" -> Bak Kwa... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bakkwa
 
It is making the crossing across to Bangka across the open water which is turned out to not be ideal over the festive period...Wish we had been able to get you guys up there and also transfer to have transferred by boat...Pesky northern wind ;-)
 
You have put the rest of us to shame with your excellent report! Well done!
 
Did I hear correctly that there is no traffic in S'pore?! haahaa, I guess you had been lucky and maybe because you walked. :) So glad to hear that you enjoyed Singapore too... ;-) "Tried those BBQ sheets of pork (name?)" -> Bak Kwa... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bakkwa

Honey, let me invite you to Washington, D.C. Or New York. Or pretty much any American city. You'd appreciate Singapore's lack of traffic then! You guys don't know squat about traffic!

But food, OTOH, ah, yes, you guys know all about food! Bak Kwa! Oh my word, did you have to remind me? So delicious...so addictive...me so hungry thinking about Bak Kwa... it's just not something you can eat except when you are on vacation or expending a lot of calories whilst diving.

---------- Post added January 17th, 2013 at 01:48 PM ----------

Wetlens, curse you, I am supposed to be working! But how can I when you have such outstandingly beautiful photographs to distract me? Seriously, what a joy to peruse your albums while outside my window it is dark and dreary and the-snow-is-a-coming. What a great day to think of someplace warm and sunny and underwater.

The colors in your photos are so amazing--do you use some sort of post-photo process (or whatever they call it) to enhance? You obviously have been at this a long time.

Blue Heron Bridge! We actually have been there quite a few times as my son goes to University about two hours away. It really is a cool site, isn't it? Saw a short-nosed batfish there once. Have never been there at the right time for a night dive, however.

Lately I've been meeting so many people who have been on the Pindito! Did you love it? Did you write a report? After all these years, we are finally planning-to-plan our first LoB trip; have been advised that the Philippines would be a good first-time venture, but there sure are a lot of Pindito fans out there.

Thanks for sharing your photos! I have bookmarked your site for future grim days of winter!
 
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