MJ850 - cheap. Too good to be true?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Thanks, I had heaps of fun in Egypt... and to summarize that in 2 minutes was a bit of a challenge...:D

I will blog about it a bit later as I have returned to office and stress again.

The biggest thing: the MJ850 failed after 5-6 dives...:depressed: after having it on full power for 15 minutes or so. I'll blog that story most definitively. (won't do that now...)
 
That sucks. I have only has my Photic SST-50 (mj850) on a couple of night dives so far and it has been great. I will be interested to hear the story.
 
so .. the whole story sofar: What happened to the lamp, now hoping for the China connection to work out...

in my blog

Any tips, tricks and questions are welcome here ... or as a comment in the blog.
 
I have a couple of obvious questions...did it flood and have you tried changing the batteries?
 
I have a couple of obvious questions...did it flood and have you tried changing the batteries?

It did not flood... changing the batteries is a bit hard, as this one comes with rechargable 3.6 V powersources... I had them recharged and tested again, obviously without any success.

I will check the batteries a bit further, but I expect them to be in good working condition.

Any more obvious questions? -- or if you can, less obvious is even better...
 
Get a voltage meter and test out the batteries. It should be 4.2V fully charged. If it's between 3.0-4.2V, then the batteries should still be ok.
 
Get a voltage meter and test out the batteries. It should be 4.2V fully charged. If it's between 3.0-4.2V, then the batteries should still be ok.

Thanks Beekeeper, I'll use one of the multimeters I already have... but as I said, I don't think it is the batteries.

I am now about to decide to open the lamp myself and check out what is the defect or send it to China... I might have found a parts reseller. I think that about evens out the risk of doing it myself vs sending to China.
 
If it is dead I have access to an autoclave that we could pressure test in. The only issue is that if it is too large I will have to drag out the 10L or 50L, and my boss might want to know why....
 
It did not flood... changing the batteries is a bit hard, as this one comes with rechargable 3.6 V powersources... I had them recharged and tested again, obviously without any success.

I will check the batteries a bit further, but I expect them to be in good working condition.

Any more obvious questions? -- or if you can, less obvious is even better...

I asked those questions for a reason. I have the MC/E version of the diving light also manufactured by Magicshine. It did flood but still worked but wouldn't switch modes. I was able to fix the problem and I still use that light.

I also (before the flood) had an issue with the batteries. Mine were lithium-ion batteries as well but were smaller (18650). Fortunately I ordered a second pair of those batteries at the same time that I ordered the light.

They tested out fine (4.2 V) but for some reason every time on a dive that I got to about 20 fsw the output level dropped to about 10% of high. I checked it out on several dives and it did it every time. When I put in the second pair of batteries it never happened again.

The batteries from China are usually good and sometimes they aren't but still test out just fine. I have a feeling it may be your batteries even if they test out fine. It's too bad that it's such a hassle to get those larger C size cells in lithium-ion so that you can check that aspect out.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom