Nikon D90 + Ikelite : Would this set up work?

[erik.p]

Hi,

I'm considering getting an Ikelite UW set up for my Nikon D90, but I get confused by all the Ikelite ports and domes...

I intend to do have to main lenses for UW;
Tokina 10-17mm AT-X 107 AF DX (Fish Eye)
Tamron 90mm Macro 1:2.8 (Macro) or Nikon 60mm Macro f/2.8G ED AF-S (Macro)

I'd like to start out with just the one Strobe/flash.

Given the above, would this be a good set up (prices from Adorama)?

UW Housing : Ikelite Underwater Camera Housing for Nikon D-90 Digital Cameras : 1 330 USD
Strobe/Flash plus arms : Ikelite Substrobe DS-51 / Sync Cord / Ball Socket Arm Package for Ikelite Housings : 570 USD
Fish Eye Dome: Ikelite SLR Dome Port for lenses less than 3" (7.6cm) (IK5503) : 190 USD
Macro: Tamron : Ikelite SLR Flat Port f/ 5.1-6.1" Lens (IK550558) : 140 USD
Or
Nikon : Ikelite SLR Flat Port for 3.1-4.1" Lenses (IK550421) : 140 USD

Grand total: 2 230 USD (Yikes!)

Questions;

1) Have I missed anything vital?
2) I guess I should get the +2 dipoter that Ikelite recommends for the Fish Eye?
3) For the Fish Eye, is it worth to get the 8" Dome instead of the 3"? ("Ikelite Dome Assembly for very wide lenses..." : 380 USD)
If so, does this just replace the 3" or do I need something more to attach the 8" to the UW housing?


Regards,

Erik

 

[AussieByron]

Hi,

I'm considering getting an Ikelite UW set up for my Nikon D90, but I get confused by all the Ikelite ports and domes...

I intend to do have to main lenses for UW;
Tokina 10-17mm AT-X 107 AF DX (Fish Eye)
Tamron 90mm Macro 1:2.8 (Macro) or Nikon 60mm Macro f/2.8G ED AF-S (Macro)

I'd like to start out with just the one Strobe/flash.

Given the above, would this be a good set up (prices from Adorama)?

UW Housing : Ikelite Underwater Camera Housing for Nikon D-90 Digital Cameras : 1 330 USD
Strobe/Flash plus arms : Ikelite Substrobe DS-51 / Sync Cord / Ball Socket Arm Package for Ikelite Housings : 570 USD
Fish Eye Dome: Ikelite SLR Dome Port for lenses less than 3" (7.6cm) (IK5503) : 190 USD
Macro: Tamron : Ikelite SLR Flat Port f/ 5.1-6.1" Lens (IK550558) : 140 USD
Or
Nikon : Ikelite SLR Flat Port for 3.1-4.1" Lenses (IK550421) : 140 USD

Grand total: 2 230 USD (Yikes!)

Questions;

1) Have I missed anything vital?
2) I guess I should get the +2 dipoter that Ikelite recommends for the Fish Eye?
3) For the Fish Eye, is it worth to get the 8" Dome instead of the 3"? ("Ikelite Dome Assembly for very wide lenses..." : 380 USD)
If so, does this just replace the 3" or do I need something more to attach the 8" to the UW housing?


Regards,

Erik

Hi Erik.

I am currently shooting with a D90 in an Ikelite housing. After having the housing for over 12 months now I would recommend looking at a different housing like the Nauticam or Aquatica. I did see the Aquatica housing advetised for $1700usd for the Nikon D90 to give you an idea. The build quality of the metal housings is alot better than the Ikelite.

But if your still looking at going with an Ikelite setup I recommend that you stay with the Tokina 10-17mm lens (can not put dioptre on the Tokina as it has no thread to do so) but use the 8 inch dome port. It needs a extra spacer for the Tokina.
I would go straight to the Nikkor 60mm Macro as its my favourite macro lens and go for the ikelite modular flat port system as if offers more flexiability in changing ports in you buy other lenses in the future and also the modular flat port is made out of glass.

Regarding the DS51. You will find ths strobe under powered for a big setup. You could use it for macro but it would not be suited for wide angle work with the Tokina......you need power and spread. I suggest the DS160 or the DS161 if you want to play with the D90 video as the DS161 has 15w LED modelling lights. If you buy the DS51 you will be looking at upgrading it with some more powerful very soon.

A Ikelite housing with 6 inch port and camera in it is Nautrally bouyant but when you add strobe/s like the DS125/160/161 the setup becomes negative and in the end of a days diving you will have a sore right shoulder for carrying it around. I recommend that you buy bouyancy arms like the ones ULCS make, especially when you end up getting two strobes which you will need when you start shooting the tokina 10-17. Two 8 inch arms is what i use.

But I recommend again you look at pay the extra towards another housing. I believe you can use the Ikelite ports with the Nauticam housings. If your on a budget buy the housing with one big strobe and macro setup first. Then later buy the Tokina and the second strobe as you will need it.

Regards Mark

 

[scottfiji]

Hi,
that Ikelite recommends for the Fish Eye?

Regards,

Erik

congrats on your upcoming new setup. BTW, you can't use a diopter with the tokina fisheye lens (nor would you want to even if you could)

hope this helps,
Scott

 

[H2O Photo Pros]

Erik

I think Mark hit it on the nose up there. First off, stick with the 8 inch if you go with the Ike...but seriously consider the Aquatica or Nauticam housings. The Aquatica is only a bit more, and the Nauticam is a bit pricier, but both VERY well worth it. If you go with either of those housings, then consider the available 4inch compact dome for the Tokina 10-17 (mini domes).

As for the macro, go for the Nikon 60mm, its fast, sharp, you wont be sorry. And, with the 1.5x crop factor, you will be shooting a 90mm.

 

[erik.p]

Thank you all for your input.

Regarding the +2 diopter for the Tokina Fish Eye (10-17). Strange that Ikelite state;
"Must remove 5503 dome shade to prevent vignetting. +2 diopter not required but may improve corner sharpness."
Source : Nikon SLR Port Chart

I'll look into the other houses as well, thanks for the suggestion.

Hmmm...regardless of the UV housing, this is going to be quite a costly affair (which of course comes as no big surprise to you...).
I seriously have to consider how often I get to dive, my general interest in photography,
and if there is any way else I'd rather be spending my money...

Perhaps I should heed your advice Mark, and start with a single strong strobe and a 60 mm Nikon,
and eventually move along to wide angle photography (if I can afford it...)

Regardless, thank you all for your valuable input.

 

[H2O Photo Pros]

Erik, when customers come to me and want to get started yet want to keep it budgeted, a single strobe macro set up is always the way I recommend. Wide Angle, especially with the 10-17, you need dual strobes. At least with macro a single strobe will get you under water, you can then work on adding a second strobe followed then by the wide angle set up....thereby breaking it down into 3 purchases.

For a system such as this, its realistic to say (unless you just like to have the latest and greatest) that you will have a 3-4 year life out of the system. However, the strobes and ports are a long term investment as you can take them on to your next system. This is another reason choosing a manufacturer is critical from the get go, you have a commitment to the ports. The extra few hundred to go from Ike to Aquatic, or up to Nauticam, is minimal when you think about the life of the ports.

 

[HerraduraDivers]

I have now for 1,5 years a D90 with the corresponding Ikelite Housing and 4 years a Fuji E900 with the corresponding Ikelite housing and had NEVER any issues with both housings.
I personally see no need to buy a aluminium housing for a DSLR but i have to say that they look cool and impress other people.
Ikelite Housings are very sturdy and the idea that "dropping a aluminium housing will make lesser damage" is from my point the wrong approach due that NO housing should be dropped. Sure when you are a professional photographer or use the housing daily or weekly a aluminium housing will provide at least a sturdier feeling. I have to admit that i am to order a Patima aluminium housing for a G11 because it will be my everyday -i am dive instructor- camera and there i need the most sturdiest and smallest housing i can get.
Another nice thing on transparent housings is that you can see the seal and if there is a leak you may detect it ways before a aluminium housing.

It is true that a aluminium housing cost "only" 500$+ more than a Ikelite, BUT try to calculate on a online site how much the price difference between the Ikelite ports and the same ports for a aluminium housing is.

I am happy with my Ikelite D90 housing and i would buy another one.

Best regards

Chris Karrer

 

[AussieByron]

I had a quick look online and found the Ikelite 8 inch dome for $380 and compared it to the Aquatica 8 inch dome port for $495.......

Compared the Ikelite D90 housing online for $1330 against the Aquatica housing for $1699.

So at the end of the day after you purchased strobes, arms, sync cords, camera cases, lenses, etc etc the difference between the more sturdier aluminium housing like Aquatica which can handle daily use is only $370 more than the Ikelite. I guess you sumed it up with looking at ordering a Patima housing for your G11 over the Ikelite G11.

Regarding the transparent housing and detecting leaks.....I still prefer to use a cheap electronic leak detector in my Ikelite housing. Its basically a contact hooked up to a coin battery and a flashing LED light. It has saved my housing a couple of times. I want to know when there are on a few small drops entering my housing compared to looking through a clear housing to try and find clear water inside.

Regards Mark

 

[HerraduraDivers]

I get quite different numbers from a well known dealer in the USA:

1799 $ Aquatica Housing for Nikon D90
289 $ Aquatica flat port for Nikon 60mm Micro
719 $ Aquatica 8'' Dome port + Shade + Zoom Gear
2807 $ Total

1329.95 $ Ikelite Housing for D90
189.95 $ Ikelite Flat port for Nikon 60mm micro
399.95 $ Ikelite 8'' Dome port for Tokina 10-17mm incl. shade and zoom sleve
1918.85 Total

Difference = 888.15 $ in favor of Ikelite what is +/- 25% less
or the price for a Ikelite DS-161 Strobe including the charger.


Yes, i am paying about 400$ more to have a aluminium housing.
I hope that this will protect the G11 better than a Ikelite, because i will use it every day what increases the risk of
banging and dropping quite more than divers using his housing on weekends and in holidays.
The other reason that i go with a aluminium housing is the smaller size than the Ikelite housing.

Best regards

Chris

 

[cim72lando]

My comments on the issues raised here but first some info about my photo equipment. For over 5years, I have been using Ikelite housings, ports, and strobes since I went digital/SLR starting with the Nikon D70 and currently with the D300. Not being the Bill Gates type, besides doing a lot of reading of books, camera/underwater photo equipment reviews, etc., I also did a lot of questioning/prying from underwater photographers, visiting online photo forums, etc., even before I bought the cameras.
Have I been satisfied with my choices? The answer is yes.
Is there any other housing that will significantly improved image quality besides what I can get with Ikelite? To me the answer is- it's very doubtful, as there are so many factors influencing the final image (before editing is done) including but not limited to the skills of the photographer and luck (like having 2 whalesharks crossing each other path and you are there to take the shot at the proper angle).
Is there any manufacturer that will guarantee no flooding will ever occur in their housing? Probably somebody would, but will you believe it? Did I ever have water get in to my Ikelite housing? Yes, and not just one time. Did the water damage the camera, lens, TTL circuitry, or any other item when it got inside my housing? It never did because I checked for and noted the leaks in the dip tank or while I was near the surface and the transparency of the housing gave me time to react early. Was the water leakage due to an inherent Ikelite defect or was it from photographer error? My analysis led me to the second choice. In my case, does leakage occur frequently? Answer- no.
One stupid thing I did early on was leaving my camera rig in the dip tank overnight! Perhaps, it was because my mind was somewhere else when I went to bed after the night dive. Talk about luck and structural integrity of the Ikelite system- not a single drop got inside when I examined the camera the following morning. Now, I check the status of my rig several times each dive day (without disassembling unless I really have to) and make sure the system is in a safe place.
My opinion when you are starting with underwater photography- concentrate on macro set-up first as it's easier to master. Essentially, besides the D90 and a Nikon 60 mm macro lens, you will need the proper housing, flat port, DS 160 or 161 strobe, synch cord, 4 strobe arms, 6 clamps, adapters to connect the strobe to the arms and the arms to the housing tray, extra O-rings, compatible O-ring lubricant, lens/camera/housing cleaning kit, & battery charger. These are the basic. I highly recommend you also get a spare strobe arm, clamp, adapter, camera battery, and a strobe battery. (I really like the strobe arms, clamps, adapters made by Ultralight).
I know- it's getting way above your budget. So the final decision is yours and enjoy your images.