Prototype canister for light

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350xfire

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OK guys, due to the expense and extra time consumed during the building of a full delrin canister with latches, I have decided to redesign my canisters to make them simpler to assemble and cheaper to produce. Here is what I have come up with.

It's a threaded lid design using no latches. By doing this, a savings of about $18 on latches and some labor is achieved. Also, during CNC operation, a couple of steps are eliminated (mainly locating and drilling latch holes). This takes the machinist quite a bit of set up time and thus cost!!!

I would like to see what everyone's thoughts are on this canister. Another benefit of no latches is the elimination of a possible entanglement point and a failure point as the latches are installed with stainless screws into very thin plastic (1/4") which can strip out easily. Oh, and one more thing, the canister can be made with a thinner wall since the need for a 1/4" wall for screws is no longer there.

This one has a single o-ring seal, but I may add another one at a later point. Right now it does not have a switch guard either. That will be designed later as well... Also, this canister is about the size of a slim line. It will accept up to 8 LiIon 18650 batteries.

This is just a prototype so I have no idea what a CNC shop would charge to produce these in quantities yet.

Thanks
Hector
 

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Hector It's Jeff again. What if any disadvantages would this method have? The only thing I see is cable twist.
 
Hector It's Jeff again. What if any disadvantages would this method have? The only thing I see is cable twist.

The way you would assemble it is to flip the can upside down, twist the lid on and flip back over. This way the battery turns as you turn the lid. Otherwise I think it will work out quite well. The lid turns about 3 turns to completely seal so I see no problems with twist.

Benefits:
No latches to tangle up on things
No latches to add cost (hardware, machining, assembly)
No latch holes to strip out and cause problems
Cost of manufacturing should be lower
Lid can be turned pretty tightly which could be used to make up for a failing o-ring... Now this twisting could also increase wear on the o-ring, but for 0.50 cents you can afford to keep a few around and replace every year.

Thanks
 
They look like real nice canisters....not to be a kill joy though, that's why I bought the MLS canisters from diverite. Same design and a lot less work. I'm working on my 3rd this way. A single MLS holds a 7ah battery and the double can hold 14ah or be broken down into 2 7's. Great for halo bulbs, or plenty of room for hid conversion.

But again great job, I always celebrate creativity and getting way the hell outside the box.
 
Have you done any test dives with this new can set-up to depth test it. I think that if you depth test it well, the only thing that i can think of is it might back out some from the movements whlie diving, I am just trying to think of something to suggest to prevent this... Let me get my thinking cap on and see if I can come up with anything.
 
Have you done any test dives with this new can set-up to depth test it. I think that if you depth test it well, the only thing that i can think of is it might back out some from the movements whlie diving, I am just trying to think of something to suggest to prevent this... Let me get my thinking cap on and see if I can come up with anything.

It's in the pessure pot at about 250' right now. Been there since yesterday.
 
It's in the pessure pot at about 250' right now. Been there since yesterday.

After a day and a half in the pressure pot no leaks!
 
Hector,

Nice sleak design!

The only criticism I've heard of a screw down system, besides wire twist, is that the latch design works like an OPV in the event of a flood. Batteries can vent nasty gasses when flooded, screwed on lids would not allow this gas to escape. With the pressure differential it could also be very difficult to open.

Again, that's criticism I've heard/read of a threaded system, if it's warranted concern or not is up to the end user. I perosonally wouldn't worry about it.
 
I don't see why this idea will not work. Although I would be concerned that only having it hand tight, it might turn out slightly during a dive. I threaded the bottom of my canister, (because I used pvc tube instead of solid delrin) and I put two holes in the bottom for a tool to tighten it. I used the tool used to tighten/loosen wheels on a 4 1/2" electric grinder, so I matched the hole pitch to the tool. I can tighten it much tighter than with any other method.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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