Red Filters; good, bad or ugly?

[DryGear]

I'm currently playing with an Olympus 790SW in a case with an UFL-1 strobe. I use the u/w settings of the Olympus and in general they work quite nicely but I often find they over-compensate, in particular on close macro shots. I'm wondering if getting off the u/w settings of the Olympus and maybe using a red filter might be a good option but never having used a red filter (and not owning one) I don't know what to expect. ...are they commonly used by more experienced u/w photographers?

I would eventually like to upgrade to a digital SLR and I imagine things like filters will be more beneficial on something with more flexibility but even then are red filters a good option for u/w or is there a better way to avoid those blues that I have yet to learn?


Cheers,

Nathan

 

[Gilligan]

I see no need for a red filter if your camera has a "Custom" white balance setting. Calibrate your white balance off a white slate or card at the depth you are at for taking non-strobe shots. Post process your shots in PS or the like.

For the strobe shots use the "cloudy" or "sunny" white balance setting depending on your preference for the results between the two.

The "underwater" setting in cameras is a happy medium for non-strobe shots. It cannot address all conditions. It is no match for the "Custom" setting.

 

[randini]

AS I understand it, most of these UW settings tend to add some of the red back into the pictures, so when you use them with a strobe, which adds white light (including red) you end up with too much red in the picture. Same thing will happen with a red filter, but you will lose about a stop of light. When you're using the strobe, try using a setting, like cloudy or something along those lines, that uses a white balance more closely matched to the color temperature of the strobe. Or you could just leave it in normal mode with auto white balance. That should get you "close enough" to be able to correct in post processing.

When you're shooting WA type shots, that's when you might benefit from using a filter or UW mode (and turning the strobe off).

Even when you switch to DSLR, using a strobe and filter together will result in red pictures for close ups (where the strobe's light can reach).

 

[DryGear]

AS I understand it, most of these UW settings tend to add some of the red back into the pictures, so when you use them with a strobe, which adds white light (including red) you end up with too much red in the picture. Same thing will happen with a red filter, but you will lose about a stop of light.

So you're saying a red filter is basically going to give me the same effect as my current underwater settings and both are only really useful when taking wide angle shots. …That makes sense.

For the strobe shots use the "cloudy" or "sunny" white balance setting depending on your preference for the results between the two.

I will try that out. If I’m playing with manual settings any recommendation for the ISO or autofocus settings? …there is generally not much ambient light where I’m diving.

 

[ryssyr]

I'm not familiar with that camera, but if you can shoot in raw you can white balance and color correct in post processing.

 

[Web Monkey]

I'm not familiar with that camera, but if you can shoot in raw you can white balance and color correct in post processing.

Yep.

Your best bet is "no filter" since any filter cuts down on the light reaching the imaging sensor. Grab all the photons you can, then do your best back on land with Photoshop, Gimp, Picasa or the tool of your choice..

More light is better, so if you can manage to bring along a strobe, you'll get back the colors that are attenuated at depth.

There is no filter or post-processing that will get back colors that just aren't there, so lighting is pretty much the top priority.

Terry

 

[DryGear]

Unfortunately my camera won't do RAW format, just JPEG.

....all good info thanks guys.

 

[llqwyd]

Aloha...

Are you shooting mostly Macro? At what depth are you working?

As you may know, a red filter is dependent on the depth at which you are shooting. The deeper you are, the more red loss. However, at 12 ft and above, you will not need it. Also, the built-in underwater settings DO essentially the same thing as a red filter, and as stated, a strobe WILL add too much red into your photos. A red filter is a cheap/easy solution that is probably not what you are looking for.

Hope you find this helpful

 

[Web Monkey]

Unfortunately my camera won't do RAW format, just JPEG.

....all good info thanks guys.

RAW captures more information so the image editors have more to work with, but you can certainly use JPEG.

Terry

 

[Gilligan]

I will try that out. If I’m playing with manual settings any recommendation for the ISO or autofocus settings? …there is generally not much ambient light where I’m diving.

ISO 80 will likely be to low a setting at depth. Try 100 or even 200. Anything higher will likely put too much digital noise in the photo. Try ISO 200 at 1/80 shutter and F2.8 at the deeper darker depths. Anything slower than 1/80 will likely result in a moving object blurring in the photo depending on how fast it's moving. The farther away from a subject you are not using a strobe the more the risk of increased digital noise.

Don't use full auto focus. It makes the lens "hunt" all the time and uses more battery power as well as more wear and tear on the mechanics. Use the auto focus that requires you push the shutter control half-way down to focus then all the way down to take the photo.