Removing Tank Valve

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eweingarden

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I'm sure this topic has been covered, but I couldn't find it with a search. In any event, I want to take the valve off of an old aluminum tank which I won't be using. I can't really see a place to put a wrench other than the flat area where the O-ring is. Is that the correct place to put the wrench? How do you secure the tank from moving while turning the valve? Thanks.
 
I'm sure this topic has been covered, but I couldn't find it with a search. In any event, I want to take the valve off of an old aluminum tank which I won't be using. I can't really see a place to put a wrench other than the flat area where the O-ring is. Is that the correct place to put the wrench? How do you secure the tank from moving while turning the valve? Thanks.


the flats at the neck of the tank are the proper place to place the wrench. If the tank is 100% empty you should only have to put the wrench on and give it a small pop with your hand or a soft mallet. It should not be on tight so securing the tank is not normally a problem.
 
you can secure the tank with a strap wrench or a vise grip with a chain. Or you can kneel on it or straddle it with your knees. If the tank has been well maintained, it shouldn't be too hard to remove the valve
 
Herb-alaska:
The area where the flats are has a very narrow space. It seems like I would not be able to get a wrench in there. The tank/valve dates back to the 1980s; did valves have different shapes in those days (if you know)?
 
Once the tank is slowly drained, often you can just hit the rubber wheel with your hand, and knock the valve off.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, Peter C. The valve is off.
 
I'm glad the hitting the handle method worked for you, but please be careful. I've seen people do this with a mallet or hammer, and it usually bends, breaks or weakens the stem. It's not a big deal to replace the stem when you service the valve, but it shouldn't be necessary if you don't whack it hard.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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