Stripping & painting AL Tanks

[Rick Murchison]

I generally don't recommend paint - other than some sort of clearcoat (I personally use epoxy) on a steel tank as paint can hide rust. But if you must paint, epoxy (the real stuff you mix just before painting) will stick to most surfaces pretty well at room temperature - and room temperature is what you want.
Rick

 

[Helius]

I thought to make it look better.

Check these url's plz ...
http://www.island-scuba.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=001&Category_Code=gallery

http://www.island-scuba.com/Merchan...=CTGY&Store_Code=001&Category_Code=cygraphics

 

[AzAtty]

...that these guys only offer the custom paint job with the purchase of a new tank. That would address the issue of rust and damage cited above. They don't say enough about the paint they use or the drying procedure, although I get the distinct impression that they air dry the tank.

Whether you want to spend money on the custom paint job is, of course, your decision. In my experience, tanks tend to accumulate some scratches and minor dings that will mess up the custom job, so the nice graphic you see on the first day will probably look like it has a bad case of leprosy within a short period of time. That will be compounded by the likelihood that the graphic paint probably won't adhere as well as the manufacturer's paint.

 

[don harris]

I had a tank painted in fall and I really never mean to bang things around but 26 dives later the tank looks worse then it did when it was original (aluminum 80) there was a clear coat put on But it still chips off So just my opinion original is meant to stay original ,but I have seen guys with custom painted decals and they have kept them nice for a long time ,no chips, no scratches this could never be acomplished by me ;-0

 

[Hallmac]

I paint tanks all the time! Here's what I do.

I glass bead blast all the old paint off (if you dont have glass beads use the finest sand you can find. You dont want to remove metal) and prime the tank with a rust preventing primer. When completely dry I use spray epoxy and allow to dry for 72 hours. Paint on your design and clear coat. Allow to air dry on all stages.

The reason I blast all tanks is to remove excess paint levels that hide the DOT stampings and the Hydro dates. Painting this way all markings are very visible.

I usually get about 100 dives before they start looking poor and need a new paint job. Hopes that helps.

PS. I Hydro tanks everyday and this will not harm or prevent them from being tested.

Hallmac

 

[Rush]

Hallmac,

What paints and what clear coat do you use ? As an airbrush hobbyist and avid scuba diver, I have always wanted to combine the two and paint one of my tanks, and would like some advice from someone who has experience in this.

 

[Hallmac]

Well I used to use paint from Dupont that I got from N.A.P.A. Auto Parts that was designed for marine use. However I currently use this combo.

Epoxy Spray Paint from Kryon ( weird I know ) but it is a very hard chemical resistant fast primary color. After 72 hours it becomes stable enough to top off with enamel designs without chemical orange peal. I top coat my designs while wet with an enamel clear coat.

2 coats of primer
2 coats of epoxy
1 coat of design
3 coats of clear

has worked very well for me

Hallmac

 

[Rush]

That is just what I wanted to know. Now, one of these days I'm gonna have to be brave enough to attempt painting one of my tanks !

 

[Butch103]

I was going to have my steel tank's vis done and then clean the tank, (stickers and residue paint)...thn have my LDS reapply the sticker and then just tremclad it........Oh wellll.......................( It was going to be a glitzy gold)

 

[Hallmac]

Do you normally use lacquer, enamel, or polymers in your air brush?

Hallmac