To drain or not to drain

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Jesus a simple question returned with so much bull **** a simple yes would of been good enough.
 
Rich, I wouldn't let the auto dumps drain right down as they will drain everything out of your filter. When I am going to shut my compressor down, I purge the first auto dump with the manual button, then purge the second after the first solenoid kicks in. Then I wait for about 30 seconds and shut the compressor down.

@roastbeef, we all learn here dude, no need to be so angry. Sometimes there is more to think about than a simple yes or no. If you look up some of the posts by IyaDiver, he will go to great lengths and spend a lot of time to explain a concept, then go further with additional information, which I've found extremely useful. Some of us are interested in the "WHY", not just the answer. Compressor, booster and filtration information is not easy to gain, I'm just sharing the knowledge I've learned from others who have helped me. If you don't want to read it all, you don't have to - simple.
 
I have had a Bauer Junior II for over 10 years and 900 hours use. I found that keeping everything pressurised means the (repackable) filters last longer. All I do is dump moisture from all three dumps and then leave it as it is.
 
Thanks for the useful information. Another question to throw in the hoop:

My Bauer Poseidon loses pressure approximately 12hrs after I've shut it down. I leave 80-90bar in the filter tower and whips, which will remain until sometime in the next morning it releases from the safety valve.

Why would it do this? Temperature related?

Cheers
 
Slow leak. Mine does this now as well. Leaks out the whip.
 
I've been in the compressor room while it released pressure and it was definitely from the relief valve above the filter.

059410_sm.jpg
 
There are a few things that can cause this and you will just have to go through and methodically check each part.

1. Your OPV, which you showed a picture of. Pull it down, replace all o-rings, clean all surfaces and check for corrosion. Replace parts or valve as necessary.

2. Leaking PMV, this is located on the bottom of your filter stack where your whip outlet is. Same procedure as above.

3. Leaking valve on final stage. This one is a little more tricky, you will need to remove the head and check the sealing surfaces, replace the o-rings and or replace the valves.

4. Loose drain knob or worn drain seat, or dirt on seat. The springs on these can wear out, so you just have to close them by hand. If the seat is worn, remove the spring from the eyelet, remove the drain and seat. You can machine the seat by putting it in a pedestal drill chuck and touch it up with a little bit of very fine sandpaper on your finger. I've done this and it works well.

Any small amount of carbon or dirt can cause any one or more of these devices to fail. With the limited information we have on the oil type you use, age and condition of your compressor etc, service intervals, valve change or not etc, it is difficult to be able to determine the exact single cause but this information should help you find the leak. For what it is worth, the OPV on top of your filter should only vent when it reaches your maximum pressure and not leak a thing when the pressure is below this maximum blow off point.

Someone else may be able to offer you a more conclusive diagnosis but these things would be a good start.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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