Hello, I would like to know if you can manufacture and sell it (the zoom gear for Tokina 10-17 mm, on Seafrog underwater housing, salted line) or know someone who can manufacture and sell it, since I have no possibilities to do 3D printing, thank you very much. Best regards (my email is: ffsd17@yahoo.es)
Tokina 10-17 vs Sony 10-18 vs AOI 09P
- Thread starter hankypank
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WS007
Contributor
Hi Pedro,
I am in Austria/Europe and have printed several gear extensions at this service here: Online 3D Printing Service | i.materialise
You load up the 3D file and they print and send it for little money...
(I am sure there are such enterprises also in Barcelona, the sending would be few Euros cheaper then...)
Wolfgang
I think the Tokina is a great lens and I bought one for someday just in case I wanted it. But the WWL has some advanatges. It is a very sharp lens and affords a semi-fisheye FOV that is pretty darn sharp corner to corner and is zoom through. Additionally it can be removed and on another dive, the same day, shoot flat port or macro without opening the housing to change lenses and ports. As to size, weight and bouyancy, yes it is a large chunk of GLASS and metal. The foam float collar on the WWL-1 and the new metal collar on the WWL-1B negates any negative buoyancy issue, it is approximately neutral. My Nauticam NA6400 balances neutral and in the vertical plane perfectly. My dome port and 16mm pancake tends to float dome up and the rig is slightly bouyant so I need to add ballast with it.
There is also the WWl-1C (Compact) which does work just fine with M4:3 and APS-C cameras and is more compact and lighter and also has a built in float collar and is zoom through also. If it had been available at the time I might have chosen it. Supposedly not quite as sharp, I doubt anyone but the most persnickety pro would know. But it will be in the extreme corners where there is a difference.
With any wet lens, especially if jumping in with the camera, you will need to burp and fan it. It takes me about 20 seconds with the bayonet release to burp, fan it and the port glass and then click it back on.
Since the WWL-1 is slightly negative, just in case I get distracted and for some reason jettison the lens by accident, the WWL is always tethered to the housing and the housing is always tethered to me. And the dome cover is either tethered to me or to the WWL.
There is also the WWl-1C (Compact) which does work just fine with M4:3 and APS-C cameras and is more compact and lighter and also has a built in float collar and is zoom through also. If it had been available at the time I might have chosen it. Supposedly not quite as sharp, I doubt anyone but the most persnickety pro would know. But it will be in the extreme corners where there is a difference.
With any wet lens, especially if jumping in with the camera, you will need to burp and fan it. It takes me about 20 seconds with the bayonet release to burp, fan it and the port glass and then click it back on.
Since the WWL-1 is slightly negative, just in case I get distracted and for some reason jettison the lens by accident, the WWL is always tethered to the housing and the housing is always tethered to me. And the dome cover is either tethered to me or to the WWL.
Lewis88
Contributor
How does the WWL-1 compare to the Zen 100mm mini dome in terms of size, weight, etc?
I shoot the Tokina inside the zen dome and it's extremely compact.
I shoot the Tokina inside the zen dome and it's extremely compact.
I would not be able to answer that question with any certainty. The Tokina lens is a great lens but is not known for top of the heap optical performance and neither is the Sony PZ kit lens. The WWL is going to be larger and heavier out of the water, in the water it is neutral or close to neutral. The WWL has a FOV with the PZ lens or Sigma 19 ffl lens of 130 degrees or close so it is a semi-fisheye and is zoom through. And the WWL can be removed for flat port or macro photography without opening the housing. If you mean photo quality, my bet it is a wash with a slight favor to the Tokina and Zen dome.
I have two questions for you. 1) Does the Tokina autofocus reliably with the Sony NX series cameras? I set autofocus to back button and decouple from the shutter release. I also set autofocus for single shot at back button focus command only. Do you think the Metabones and Tokina would work well in that configuration? 2) What f stop do you find works best for general CFWA shooting with your Tokina?
WS007
Contributor
I would not bet that the WWL-1 with kitlens is sharper and has better IQ compared to the Tokina behind DP100 (or NA140) domeport. The Tokina is a very poor lens over the water, but UW it performs surprisingly well (almost magic). I have the Tokina 10-17 and the Canon 8-15 and used them on the smaller MFT sensor with DP100 and NA140 domeports. Very surprisingly, the IQ was very good with both lenses and in practice indistinguishable (the Canon, in contrast to Tokina, is high quality optics). Unfortunately, I do not have a WWL-1 to make a comparison, but I doubt that IQ will be better (for sure the Tokina with DP100 is much smaller and more handsome; even split level shots are possible)...
Also the fisheye distortion is, presumably, quite the same. It would be extremely interesting, if you could do some test shots with Tokina and WWL-1 and make a comparison...
Wolfgang
Lewis88
Contributor
1. I shoot an A6100 in a Nauticam A6400 housing, which has significant AF improvements over the previous cameras. I have no issues with AF, and it focuses fast and well. I also use back button focus to focus lock, but also use the shutter button for AF. You CAN decouple the focus completely from the shutter without an issue.
2. I use a Sigma MC-11 adapter, rather than a metabones.
3. I shoot f/8-f/10 and 1/160 normally, and have great success shooting CFWA. The Zen mini dome is tiny on the front of the camera, and it's usually more of a challenge to get my strobes in the right place in small spaces.
I enjoy being "set" for a dive with a single shooting mode in mind (WA or Macro), rather than having to change lenses underwater. I shoot with my tokina probably about 70% of the time.
I have the 6400 in a Nauticam case. I was really asking about focus performance of the Metabone or Sigma adapters with the Tokina. I know the A6400 has superb auto focus but does it still with the Sigma or Metabones adapters?
I was not suggesting changing lenses underwater but on the beach or boat between dives, I hate opening housings on the beach in blowing sand or a splashing boat with divers dripping water everywhere.
Thanks, good info
.Two things suck about Sony NX series cameras. 1) the always preflash and 2/ the slow 1/160 X-sync speed.
What I do like and enjoy is the back button auto-focus option on the custom buttons and the option to separate focus from shutter press. Take some, give some. Maybe since I have the Tokina NIB I should look at the adapters if indeed they work well and are consistent with the Sony NX cameras.
I have the Nauticam 4.33 inches dome that I use with the Sony pancake 16mm with the wide angle and the fisheye converters. The dome works very well with the bare 16mm lens and is okay with the fisheye adapter as long as I stop down to about a minimum of f8. There is corner distortion, especially at lower f stops below f8.
I wonder if there is an extension to push the Nauticam dome out so I could run the Tokina and Metabones/Sigma adapters with the 4.33 inches Nauticam PN 36125 dome port?
Lewis88
Contributor
I don't notice any difference focusing with the adapted Tokina vs the kit 16-50 lens. But I also am a tropical diver usually with great light and vis.
You could give reef photo a call and see what your options are. You' might be able to get an extension ring needed to shoot in that dome if it fits through the N85 port, but would be locked at a focal length, as all the zoom rings are for N120 based domes.
^^ That's actually the biggest pain point with the lens, as you need to remove the front dome, then the lens, and then can remove the camera from the housing to battery change, etc. Luckily Zen uses a nice thick o-ring, and the vacuum system helps to give piece of mind after changing.
As for the flash challenges, I agree. I'm debating upgrading to YS-D3's for a few trips next year and am debating adding the UWTechnics trigger to my setup at the same time.
You could give reef photo a call and see what your options are. You' might be able to get an extension ring needed to shoot in that dome if it fits through the N85 port, but would be locked at a focal length, as all the zoom rings are for N120 based domes.
^^ That's actually the biggest pain point with the lens, as you need to remove the front dome, then the lens, and then can remove the camera from the housing to battery change, etc. Luckily Zen uses a nice thick o-ring, and the vacuum system helps to give piece of mind after changing.
As for the flash challenges, I agree. I'm debating upgrading to YS-D3's for a few trips next year and am debating adding the UWTechnics trigger to my setup at the same time.
I have the UWT trigger and it basically does not work consistently in any mode. It will sync for five or six shots and then no sync and the back again. The strobes fire but the photo is not exposed. I would not purchase one again. I have three of them here, each replaced by warranty, and none of them work all the time, just some of the time. And some of the time is never when the one photo that counts for the trip is taken.
You have the same housing I do, so the Zen mini-dome fits without an adapter direct to the NA6400 Nauticam housing with the Sigma adapter and Tokina? I guess I am getting confused.
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