Trans fill questions

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Prius...

You are correct you can fill a 13/3000 only once from a HP100 @ 3500
and you can fill a 14/2015 three times from a HP100 @ 3500.

I am not sure why Mark got hungup on a stopping pressure of 3K

Omar
 
Thanks everyone. I believe it is also cheaper to fill a 100cf once than the pony 3 times at some dive shops.

Thanks for the info!
 
omar:
Prius...

You are correct you can fill a 13/3000 only once from a HP100 @ 3500
and you can fill a 14/2015 three times from a HP100 @ 3500.

I am not sure why Mark got hungup on a stopping pressure of 3K

Omar

I got hung up on the 3000 PSI thing because I made the assumption that they would be diving the HP 100 and wanted there to be enough gas in it for a dive. Clearly that was not in the original post, it was just somthing my brain added, and I got stuck on that idea. If you use the HP 100 as a storage bottle and not a scuba cylinder clearly the lower pressure pony will get more fills than the other.

Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

Mark Vlahos
 
Mark,

After re-reading my first post, thats what I thought had happened...and to be honest, I hadn't thought about that as being a good option....but I could see it being worthwhile, if I needed to fill my pony. No confusion, thanks for the input. I truly appreciate it.

I have one other question, being that argon is inert...would using it in the same whip violate it being "oxygen safe"? I'm not familiar with how argon is sourced (captured). I know of one dive shop that has a haskel on their argon station, and argon fills are purely charged based on CF then it would just be easier to trans fill from an HP cylinder to my LP argon bottle for my drysuit.

Thanks again. Just trying to minimize the # of small cylinders to buy/carry.
 
P1V1 + P2V2 = P3V3

Where V (volume) is actual volume (water capacity).
 
PriusDrIVER:
I have one other question, being that argon is inert...would using it in the same whip violate it being "oxygen safe"? I'm not familiar with how argon is sourced (captured). I know of one dive shop that has a haskel on their argon station, and argon fills are purely charged based on CF then it would just be easier to trans fill from an HP cylinder to my LP argon bottle for my drysuit.

This is a matter of some debate. Many home brewers use the same booster for everything without a problem. Many commercial fill stations will have two or more boosters, one for boosting air, one dedicated to O2 and one for inerts.

Only the O2 booster must be O2 cleaned. O2 clean boosters are more expensive, and anything that might contaminate a clean O2 booster is undesireable. Argon is sometimes considered a "dirty" gas. For the home blender who might pump a few cuft of argon each year the risk of contamination is slight. For a commercial fill station the cumulative effects of routinely pumping inerts through an O2 clean booster may be risk they don't want to take.

In addition just hooking up a booster to argon supply, then a O2 supply and then back to argon etc. increases the chances of both mistakes and contamination.

I'm fortunate in that I almost always have a full argon supply bottle on hand and as such have never needed to boost argon. ( I use argon for Tig welding shielding gas ) A ~2200-2400 psi fill in a even a 6 cuft DS bottle is enough for a couple dives.

You might consider using a 13 cuft argon bottle and top it with air when the argon supply bottle drops below a useable pressure.


PriusDrIVER:
Thanks again. Just trying to minimize the # of small cylinders to buy/carry.

One can never have too many tanks:D

Tobin
 
You should also be careful about the el cheapo whips with rubber hoses. I know some places that make these hoses dip the ends of the rubber hose in oil prior to crimping on the fitting. The oil introduces contamination into your tanks. I'm not sure how the LP hoses are made.
 
If you have a big tank of argon around, like the 100cf mentioned...

Mark it copiously that it is not breathable. Oxyhacker had a nice idea awhile back to also put a padlock around the valve. So that anyone and everyone can see that its not right, not for breathing, yada yada.

Having argon in your breathing tanks is bad bad news. Do not underestimate how fast it can kill you. (it not toxic but you'll pass out from hypoxia and drown).
 
rjack321:
If you have a big tank of argon around, like the 100cf mentioned...

Mark it copiously that it is not breathable. Oxyhacker had a nice idea awhile back to also put a padlock around the valve. So that anyone and everyone can see that its not right, not for breathing, yada yada.

Having argon in your breathing tanks is bad bad news. Do not underestimate how fast it can kill you. (it not toxic but you'll pass out from hypoxia and drown).

Yes, very good point. I planned on being generous with some Argon - do not breath stickers so it was visible from all sides. I was also planning on putting something around the valve area, just to make it so its very obvious. While I wouldn't worry about myself, its the idiot students that just grab any cylinder ("wow, this says 'nitrox', it must be uber cool air") and use it, if it was for them or not.

I will have to come up with a good marking scheme before I go this route. Thanks for the reminder though.
 
ppo2_diver:
You should also be careful about the el cheapo whips with rubber hoses. I know some places that make these hoses dip the ends of the rubber hose in oil prior to crimping on the fitting. The oil introduces contamination into your tanks. I'm not sure how the LP hoses are made.

Good to know, thanks.
 

Back
Top Bottom