Trip Report - Maui & Kona

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

scubamaverick

Registered
Messages
50
Reaction score
4
Location
Pompano Beach, FL
# of dives
500 - 999
Here is my lengthy dive report on Maui and Kona.

My pictures and videos can be seen at:

http://cmyerstravels.shutterfly.com/hawaii

It would be cool if you sign the guest book on the home page.

The report:
In May of 2010 Christine, my wife, and I embarked on our second adventure in Hawaii. This was almost exclusively a dive vacation. We had gotten certified for Scuba diving just prior to our May 2007 adventure. We were very much novices at that time, and while we were fascinated with the diving in Hawaii, we knew that this trip would be a much richer experience. There were a number of dives that we were not qualified to do in ’07, that were well within our reach this trip. More about those later.

The trip started with a week at the Kaanapali Beach Club in Kaanapali on the island of Maui, which is where we were in ’07. After the week in Maui we went to Kona on the Big Island, which was our first adventure on a second island. The sole purpose for going to Kona was the world-famous Manta night dive, described as one of the top five night dives in the world. Again, more about that later.

Before I get to the day-by-day trip report, let me say that this was an extremely well planned trip. We spent months working on all details. All activities were planned and booked directly with each provider instead of using the concierge – better prices and more control that way. Each day’s activities were planned so we knew what we were doing each day. I know that level of planning does not appeal to everyone, but fits the way we like to travel and helps us relax by not having to worry about “what are we going to do now?”. It may also be helpful to know that virtually all of our diving has been in the Atlantic or Caribbean, so very common Pacific fish were new to us.

Thursday, May 13th – Travel Day

The adventure started as just that - an adventure. I will spare everyone the details other than to say that our flights were changed due to mechanical problems. Our layover in Phoenix turned into a direct flight from Charlotte to Honolulu, on the island of Oahu – 10 hours!! – Not what I signed up for… The good news is that we made it to Maui on the scheduled day. All of our luggage even made it – one bag even beat us there!! (I still don’t understand that one.)

Friday, May 14th – Sunrise at and Bike down volcano at Haleakala National Park

We were picked up at the resort at 2:30am (middle of the night!!) for the two and half hour van ride to the top of the volcano. At the top the temp was in the 30’s so the warm clothes we took were put to good use. This explains the picture of us in hats and coats. Haleakala National Park is at the top so we watched the sunrise and toured the visitor’s center. Sunrise was awesome and should be seen by anyone that goes to Maui. After the sun was up we headed out of the national park to get on our bikes. We had a group of about ten people with two guides. After we climbed on our bikes we headed down the volcano ~27 miles – downhill all the way. This is an incredible way to see Maui and a volcano. My only complaint was that I was not on my own bike and could not cruise at a speed more to my liking. After the ride we had breakfast (it was only 9am) at Charley’s – a famous hang out of Willie Nelson’s. We were back at the resort by 11am. We went with Bike It Maui, which I highly recommend. Their guides were some of the best tour guides that we have encountered in a long time.

We spent the afternoon snorkeling at the resort and resting. Nothing note worthy happened on the snorkel. We turned in early since we had to be at the dive shop at 7 the next morning.

Saturday May 15th – Molokini Crater

All of our boat diving in Maui was done with Lahaina Divers in Lahaina. We went with them in ’07 and never considered diving with another op. They absolutely did not disappoint. From the first phone call, Gwen handled our booking professionally and accurately. The entire staff made us feel like good friends for the four days that we dove with them. The lunch that was served on each trip was excellent.

On to the dives… This charter was two tanks at Molokini Crater. Viz was 165 ft and the reef was PACKED with fish. Our first dive was at Reef’s End. This was a great first dive of the week and the start of my quest to get a head-on photo of a Moorish Idol. Look at my pictures to see if I was successful.

The second dive was at the Aquarium. WOW. With that many fish and that viz, a diver with a camera just does not know what to focus on next. As Chris, our dive master, pointed out, the fish a Molokini are so used to divers they don’t run, err… swim away. We were back in Maui and we were HAPPY.

After returning to the resort, we were ready for our first shore dive of the week with Tiny Bubbles, the on-site dive op at Kaanapali Beach Club. Rob and Tim were great and very accommodating to our strange schedule. The main reason for multiple dives at the resort is that there are multiple Green Sea Turtle cleaning stations near the resort. Turtle encounters are all but guaranteed.

Our first attempt at the dive was cut short due to the new divers having issues. I followed HumaHuma’s around with the camera for 15-20 min while we waited on the DM and other divers. They finally aborted, so we got new tanks then headed out for our real dive. As promised we were on the turtles soon enough and I was enthralled with nearly everything we saw.

Sunday May 16th – Lanai –

On Sunday we headed over to Lanai for Cathedral diving. Our first dive was at Manpache Caves (3rd Cathedral). There were several great swim- throughs and 80 ft viz. We had rougher seas and a bit of current and surge on the dive, which made things interesting. It was a nice dive, but probably my least favorite of the week.
The second dive was at Second Cathedral. The cathedrals were interesting and reminded me of several in Roatan, Honduras. The highlight of the dive was my encounter with a Trumpet fish. I noticed that he was shadowing Christine as she swam along a ledge. She was headed for the boat, so the Trumpet turned to hang out with me. I was horizontal in the water column and he was too, at first. After hanging out by my BC for about two minutes, he went vertical – next to my mask! He hung out for two or three minutes about two to three inches from my mask. I could see the various colors of his eye, the patterns of his scales and fins, and his strange mouth and gills. There were parasites running up and down his body. He definitely needed to head to the nearest cleaning station!

The third dive of the day was a thrilling night dive at the resort with Tiny Bubbles Scuba. Someone told the critters that we were having a party because they ALL showed up. A small octopus was out cruising, several types of lobsters, a seven up crab, a large male green sea turtle, and a number of nudibranchs were close by. The most interesting encounter was when the DM put a Triton Sail on a Crown of Thorns. Go look at my pictures and video for more details on this one… We try to never miss a night dive, and this was one of the best we have ever been on.

Monday, May 17th – Stayed Dry

We shopped and lounged by the beach and pool, enjoyed a great sunset from a cabana. Basically a relaxing day of off-gassing.

Tuesday, May 18th – Molokai!!

Anyone going on this charter is warned that it includes a horribly rough channel crossing. The channel between Maui and Molokai is described at the second roughest in the world. We knew this going in and put on our sea sickness patches the day before. These dives are live dives into current, so the divers enjoy the drift dive looking for hammerheads. To understand how much this dive meant to me, it helps to know that I have wanted to dive with hammerheads since I was about eight years old. I expected to have to go to Cocos or Galapagos to get the chance.

All of the concern and prep for the surface conditions was not needed. The conditions were great - 3-4 foot seas at the most, both on the crossing and at the sight. The diving was done around Mokuho’oniki Rock. We dropped off the back of the boat and within 2 minutes the first hammerhead cruised by us. At this point the excitement level went through the roof!! Every few minutes we had more sharks, most below us. I am not ashamed to say that my air consumption was HORRIBLE – sure would have liked to have been diving a 120 cu tank. None of the sharks got very close, which was disappointing, but it was still an incredible dive.

The second dive was similar to the first. We did spend about 15 minutes at the surface with a safety sausage deployed, though. After the dive day was over, not only did I need to update my dive log, I needed to check Must Dive with Hammerheads off of my To Do Before I Die list.

Oh yeah – this was also our 14thwedding anniversary. (How many wives will go shark diving on their anniversary? And be THRILLED about it? – I am lucky in that department!!)

The dive day was not over. We went back to the resort and did a scooter dive at the house reef. After zooming to a turtle cleaning station, we zoomed up and down the reef. What a cool way to dive. Scooters are the closest I will ever get to being in Star Wars…

Wednesday May 19th – Molikini Back wall

I have read that this is one of the best wall dives in the world. After diving Belize, Roatan, and Grand Cayman, I was skeptical. Boy was I in for a surprise. The fish life on the wall was incredible. We got into about a four foot surge, which was interesting because we were diving at 65 ft at the time. The viz was well over a hundred feet – I felt like I was in an aquarium.

The second dive was equally spectacular, and was enhanced by two white tip reef sharks. The second was about 3-4 ft long and was interested in something in the reef right below me. I dropped to his level and got a good video from about 5 ft away. (Go watch the video)

Thursday May 20th – Travel to Big Island and Manta Dive

We flew to Kona late morning checked into the condo and were off to the boat. We dove with Kona Honu Divers . The op was great, and we would definitely dive with them again. Thursday’s charter was two tanks, one in the late afternoon and one after dark. We were greeted by a large pod of spinner dolphins – I was surprised at how small they are compared to Atlantic Bottlenose dolphins. The afternoon dive was at the sight of the manta dive, allowing us to see the sight in the daylight hours. This was an interesting dive – the topography was very different from that around Maui. The sea bottom was littered with lava rocks and each seemed to have at least one sea urchin. The first dive was uneventful, but others saw a few mantas so we knew the night dive would be good.

The second dive was exciting well before we got wet. A manta showed up to enjoy the plankton that was attracted to the underwater lights at the back of our boat. I was the first in the water with camera in hand and quickly learned that underwater photography in the middle of a plankton swarm is different to say the least – talk about backscatter! After everyone else dropped in, we went to the dive sight with 40-50 other divers. With everyone’s lights we had quite a show with four mantas barrel rolling in the plankton. What a rush!

Friday May 21st – Manta Dive II

The day was spent shopping in Kona and resting prior to the night dive. This trip was one tank only, so we did not have to be at the boat until later. What a difference a day makes. We were fully prepared for a show like we had the day before, but it was not to be. Someone forgot to invite the plankton to the party. No plankton – no mantas. It’s that simple. After waiting on the big boys for about fifteen minutes we headed out for a regular night dive. We came across the resident eel trying to catch fish which was great fun to watch. (I have a video posted of this as well). A manta did show up to say goodbye as we were leaving so we did not get entirely skunked. Another good dive.

Saturday May 22nd – Flew home


Final Thoughts
When I reflect back on the trip’s most memorable moments I keep coming back to the friendly Trumpet Fish. It’s encounters such as this one that keep me returning to the water. The hammerheads were incredible, the white tip was exciting, the mantas were grace in motion, but those encounters will not happen often, if ever, for the average diver. There is virtually no chance that I will see any of the three again without seeking them out. The encounter with the trumpet fish could happen anywhere to anyone. Anyone that enters the underwater world, that is. Those of us lucky enough to have discovered the aquatic realm may be treated to an equally thrilling encounter anytime we enter the water, anywhere in the world. That is why I dive.
With all of that said, I think it is time to go diving again!
 
Sounds like a great trip. Thanks for sharing. Did you get at least 18 hours in between flying and diving? It looks like you cut it kind of close each day? Just an observation.

Between flying and diving my inter-Island trips often have ~one hour delay, 'cause that's the quickest you can get a tank and get in the water. :idk:
 
What a small world - I was on the manta dive that friday as well! I went with wannadive and we were the last boat to leave. While we were getting out a manta came by so I got to snorkel with it for a while. Pretty cool, although since it was my first manta dive I was a little bummed that there weren't more.

I'm going to take a wild guess that there was at least 24 hours between the last dive and the flight out - most of the flights to the mainland leave late in the evening.

Interesting about the hammerhead and molokai - I might have to hop over to Maui and try that. I've been here almost two years but I haven't been island hopping yet...
 
I have been asked about the surface interval time before flying by several people. There was a minimum of 23 hours between my last dive and each flight. Tstalcup is correct - our flight out left at 9 PM.
 
Great report, thanks! We are heading to Maui in October; do you know if the hammerheads at Molokai are seasonal? If so what times of year are they there? Just wondering if that's something we can look forward to or not.

Also, when you say you were not on your own bike coming down Haleakala, why is that? Do they require you to ride a tandem bike with a guide? I hope that's not the case....
 
According to the guys we know who work for Lahaina Divers, the hammerheads are seen more than 80% of the time they've been there....and they've been doing that charter for about 2 years now.
 
According to the guys we know who work for Lahaina Divers, the hammerheads are seen more than 80% of the time they've been there....and they've been doing that charter for about 2 years now.

Just to clarify: do you mean year-round? That is, they go there year-round, and see the hammerheads 80+% of the time?
 
I was told that they do see the hammerheads year round, but more are present at certain times of the year. You may want to give Lahaina Divers a call and ask what they expect the population to look like when you will be there.

As far as my “own bike,” I meant the bike that I own, not the rental that I used. Everyone is on their own bike but it’s a rental. Check out this website for more. bikeitmaui.com
 
Scubamaverick is right, they report seeing Hammerheads year around, just sometimes more sharks than others.

If you do the Molokai trip, take your Bonine before you get on the boat, that crossing can be SUPER rough! Also, be aware they do the dive as a group dive, the first low on air means everyone comes up.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom