Vintage breathing tubes

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Eric Sedletzky

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I was looking at that 1957 British diving film and couldn't help but notice the snorkels they were using.
Were those made out of aluminum?
And if so what diameter and what wall thickness were they?

I have a bender with 7/8" and 1" O.D. dies to make perfect non distorting bends in aluminum and stainless tubing. I would like to make a classic old style "J" breathing tube out of aluminum (if that's what they used for material back then). I could have it anodized black even.
Finding a mouthpiece might be a little tricky though. Maybe I could make a modern generic one fit?
 
I don't remember any aluminum snorkels at that time (1950s). I do remember hard plastic ones, usually sold fairly cheap in a "C" shape with a ping-pong ball arrangement to keep them dry. We cut of the top to make a "J" snorkel.

Saying that, those in the film did look to be aluminum. With the mouthpieces available, I'd be afraid that they would chip or break a tooth if you impacted a rock with them if made of aluminum.

SeaRat
 
The breathing tube in the film looks like a British-made J-shaped Typhoon T1 snorkel, which came with a "splash cap" which could be removed. At one time I owned an S-shaped Typhoon snorkel with a rubber cage at one end containing a ping-pong ball to shut off the tube when submerged. These snorkels were quite popular in their time, made of metal and sold by Typhoon (E T Skinner) until the mid-1960s, after which the company only offered plastic tubes. Typhoon was founded in the early 1950s by Oscar Gugen, who was also one of the founder members of the British Sub Aqua Club. Look him up in Wikipedia, he sounds like a larger than life character.

As for the nature of the metal used to manufacture the Typhoon snorkel, I have just done a little research in my modest library of books and catalogues. My 1966 Typhoon catalogue clearly states in the price list section:

Typhoon Alum. straight tube: 11s 0d.
Typhoon Alum. Ball cage: 16s 0d.
Typhoon Alum. Frontal: 10s 0d.

So there you are, the breathing tube was indeed made from aluminium in British English, aluminum in American English. There is a complicating factor, though, in so far as I recall these snorkels having a copper-coloured surface, while I associate aluminium with a silver hue. My copy of Collins and Chambers Ltd's mid-1960s catalogue lists the Typhoon T1 snorkel thus: "Typhoon single bend alloy snorkel with rubber mouthpiece and splash cap".

Perhaps the answer lies in another company's catalogue from the 1950s. Heinke, a British diving equipment company which merged with Siebe-Gorman in the early 1960s, manufactured a snorkel tube described thus: "This is a breathing tube in its simplest form and is of the type used by the majority of snork (sic) divers. The tube is of bent anodised aluminium and is fitted with a robust mouth piece". I expect the Typhoon snorkel was made from this material too, anodised aluminium alloy.

Barry J. Kimmins' book "Underwater Sport on a Small Income", published in London in 1956, has a page and a half on breathing tubes. He writes: "There are several types of breathing tube on the market, usually made of aluminium or plastic, and costing about fifteen shillings."

One last point. I brought the attention of British Sub Aqua Club forum members to the film and received more feedback than I was expecting. You can read the thread for yourself at

Diving into history: The film "British Sub Aqua at Thornwick Bay, Yorkshire (1957)" - BSAC Scuba Diving Forums

There seems to be some doubts in people's minds about the dating of the film as 1957, based on the images of motor vehicles seen in the video. 1962 may be a more likely dating. I'm afraid the gear worn by the divers doesn't resolve the dilemma either way. The snorkel tube was on sale until the mid-1960s, as were the fins worn by several of them: fixed open-heel Typhoon Surfmasters of the type popular with modern bodyboarding surfers.

Hope the above is of some interest.
 
Thank you David.
The above was of great interest and you explained everything quite thoroughly.

*Add:
I had a thought on mouthpieces. I could form a slight oval on the area where the mouthpiece would go and use a standard regulator mouthpiece with a black zip tie.
Or, I could look for a replacement mouthpiece for a Cressi product, they seem to have some basic stuff available.

In case anybody was wondering why I'm going through all the hassle: A classic "J" I'm finding out is something that's just not available anymore. They have some that are close but not with a round bottom. That's why I want to make one. Besides, I just like to make stuff.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Besides. I just like to make stuff.

Stainless!:eyebrow:
 
Stainless!:eyebrow:

Yeah, I thought of that, but the only stainless tubing I have is 1/16" wall for making boat railings and it's a little heavy.
There might be some .045 I could get a hold of which is a little thinner, but it still might be heavy.

It would look kinda cool though all polished out :cool2:
Come to think of it, I could polish out an aluminum one too :hm:
 
ZKY,

If you are going to make your own snorkel out of straight tubing, please try this before making the bend. Many, many moons ago, I heard that the only way to make these tubes come out right (either plastic or aluminum) was to first fill them with sand, then heat and bend them. If you don't first fill them with sand, then when they are bent, they do not stay circular, but become an oval with severe restriction for breathing. I think that the sand needs to be packed into the tubing before it is heated and bent. When I was Finswimming Director for the Underwater Society of America, the racing snorkels were sometimes home-made in this manner. Most of the gear even in the 1980s was home-made, as monofins and racing snorkels were not readily available. Also, you can bend them to form to your head if you wish--it doesn't have to be a J-tube snorkel. Good luck,

SeaRat
 
ZKY,

If you are going to make your own snorkel out of straight tubing, please try this before making the bend. Many, many moons ago, I heard that the only way to make these tubes come out right (either plastic or aluminum) was to first fill them with sand, then heat and bend them. If you don't first fill them with sand, then when they are bent, they do not stay circular, but become an oval with severe restriction for breathing. I think that the sand needs to be packed into the tubing before it is heated and bent. When I was Finswimming Director for the Underwater Society of America, the racing snorkels were sometimes home-made in this manner. Most of the gear even in the 1980s was home-made, as monofins and racing snorkels were not readily available. Also, you can bend them to form to your head if you wish--it doesn't have to be a J-tube snorkel. Good luck,

SeaRat
John, thanks for the info.
I have a special floor mounted bending tool with dies that are specially designed to bend curves into 7/8" OD or 1" OD tubing. The center wheel has a perfect half round groove the exact size if the tubing and the wheel that goes onto the bending arm has the other half of the groove for the tubing OD size being bent. So when the tubing is set into the device and locked so it cant slip, you pull the arm around and the tubing is forced to stay in shape. The inside will compress and the outside will stretch but the round shape will remain. The only thing I cant do is go beyond 180 degrees because I wouldn't be able to get the inside die out of the center.
I can also step bend it to get wider diameter radiuses or I can get larger inside wheels for bigger radiuses.
I have bent sharp curves in stainless tubing for boat railings up at the bow. Stainless is a bear to bend, specially 1". I have a special leverage multiplier for the thicker stuff because it's plain hell to bend with just the standard arm. But aluminum, both 7/8" and 1" OD bends like butter, one hand, and the shape at the curve remains rounder than with stainless.
I'll let you know my results.

Eric
 
Also, you can bend them to form to your head if you wish--it doesn't have to be a J-tube snorkel. Good luck,

SeaRat

I find ScubaPro Jet Snorkels do a great job of following the contours of my head. If I were going to make my own snorkel, I think I would just copy the lines of a Jet Snorkel as it would save a lot of trial and error.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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