Vintage cylinder questions

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

With that bushing in the tank I doubt it was manufactured as a Dive cylinder. 1/2" NPT was the first valve sizes for USD tanks. I would not use that tank for diving for fear of that brass bushing failing. Or at best never fill it above 1800 PSI. You could get it hydroed for the stamped pressure but the valve and bushing must be removed when it gets hydroed.
 
If it is a solid brass bushing and not damaged upon removal it is fine, after all, all valves are brass.
 
Replace the bushing. Get one that is clearly identified for high pressure. I use Cajon fittings, but there are others.

The worst tank accident I have seen was many years ago, a friend had filled one of these tanks, went to take it out of the fill tank, and the bushing came out of it. He lost a eardrum, broke his arm and wrist, and propelled the valve through the ceiling. He was lucky he was not directly over it. The owner had bought a hardware store bushing.

I have a pair of double 38's that I still fool around with, but, first thing I did was replace the bushings when I got the tanks hydro tested.
 
You guys continually confound me with your knowledge - I just got a nice set of 1800# 38's but I was a little more fortunate as they are DOT and have the 15/16 inch inlets for the common 3/4 inch straight manifold threads
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom