What's the story with Canadian Extreme Dive Equipment Co.?

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See
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=29575&item=3611047872
for more info go to see sellers other auctions for backuplite picts

now you say he is making his own 18ws so i wonder is that a halyon 18w he is selling or his own???



jonscubas once bubbled...
Guess what, he also offers his own custom 18 Watt H.I.D. whips.

For his backup lights he charges $69.00 plus $5 shipping. He also makes the backup light in a different color, I believe in blue.
 
Don't discount your CE light - it may be the bulb. I was just adjusting the length of the tray in mine yesterday - seemed to come on a bit too early so the one oring was pretty much always exposed until i turned it on. In that process, i ended up burning out the bulb. However, before i even started, i had put fresh batteries in and did a comparison between a miniQ40 and the CE. The CE was absolutely dim beside it. I thought well, i guess there is a dimness issue with these and their trays. However, i had an older broken sl40 kicking around and took the bulb from that one. The difference was incredible. Its now just as bright white as the q40 was. A very nice light all around. Now its just about a half twist from on or off and both orings are completely covered in that twist. Very happy now.

steve
 
wetman once bubbled...
Don't discount your CE light - it may be the bulb. I was just adjusting the length of the tray in mine yesterday - seemed to come on a bit too early so the one oring was pretty much always exposed until i turned it on. In that process, i ended up burning out the bulb. However, before i even started, i had put fresh batteries in and did a comparison between a miniQ40 and the CE. The CE was absolutely dim beside it. I thought well, i guess there is a dimness issue with these and their trays. However, i had an older broken sl40 kicking around and took the bulb from that one. The difference was incredible. Its now just as bright white as the q40 was. A very nice light all around. Now its just about a half twist from on or off and both orings are completely covered in that twist. Very happy now.

steve


I've had way too many inconsistencies to trust the original tray, it moves around too much, way too much play, is too soft, and you have to tin it to even make a difference.

The bulb contacts may have been a bit cleaner, but I've already gone that route with buying a replacement SL4 bulb for the CE lights and brand new batteries, tinning, and polishing the contact areas. The tray is the weak link.

If you are willing to dive at night or penetrate a cave or wreck with it, you are taking a chance in my opinion.

Since I've had mine retrofitted with a press fitted tray, it doesn't move, it's reliable and I know with how many turns its going to turn off or on, unlike before it was just too inconsistent and unreliable.

I'm not willing to take any chances with my light if I know it could mean finding my way out of a low light situation that requires a reliable, solid peforming light. My upgraded CE now has my vote of confidence.

If you really want to run that light through the gamut, try to break it like I did. There is a reason people are getting their CE lights redone, because they know the internals suck. Just cause you changed a bulb means absolutely nothing. You need to do more than that, just cause a light sparked a smile onto your face.
 
Well, i dont really see whats wrong with having it move - it doesnt move at all when the batteries are in and the bulb is on it. Why would it matter if it moves when its open? In fact, it kinda makes sense because i'd think its easy to pull out and clean in the even of a flood. As far as tinning goes, my scouts are almost imperceptibly dimmer than another 4 cell sl4 i have, so the material itself cant be all that bad.

Trimming about 1/16 or so off the end of the tray put its "on" position further down the screw and worked wonderfully well.

And as far as diving at night, if my primary and both backups failed as well as my backlight in the bottom timer, i still would have a buddy and his backup lights. I think you're giving too much credit to a fix of a tray that doesn't even seem to be broken.

I don't really see why mine, made of brass would be better than yours made of the same stuff. Maybe yours was corroded with something?

steve
 
No corrossion, inferior materials used for the battery tray, was too dim, tinned it/didn't work. Found out lots of people who tried to tin the brass, trim the brass, didn't work.

I sent mine in to Todd Gordon "divelightman", fixed problem, superbright and reliable now.


THAT'S ALL THAT MATTERS TO ME!
 
But why are they inferior? Mine is very bright and the same material as yours.

I just dont get how you can blanket statement like that yet some of them clearly work quite well. If the material was inferior, then they'd all be crap. I can fully understand a bad batch of a material, but brass either sucks or it doesnt. Which means either yours has had to have been corroded in some fashion or something non-standard has had to have applied to it. Leaky battery maybe? Unnoticed flood at some point?

I also still dont see how the basic design is flawed - floating tray or not - what does it matter? When its pushed in with batteries its always in the same spot. I'm not mechanic here so forgive my ignorance if i'm way off base.

steve
 
I understand that cause yours is working fine you have to try and make your point, that's fine. But mine, including others are having problems with their battery trays.

I'm not a metallurgist, nor am I an electrical engineer, all I see is the facts of what is not working, just like you see what is working.

So once again, consider yourself one of the lucky one's to have one with a decent tray. Some of the rest us do not.

Again I say others, not only me, others as well.
 

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