Tyger Ray Tiger Ray Switch

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Tommymac

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Location
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I have been looking for a way to fix a Tyger Ray magnetic switch. I think I may be at least 1/2 way there. I found a box of assorted plastic intermittent push botton switches. They fit nice and snug in the hole where the broken switch once was. The threaded portion of the switch is long enought for the thin nut to grab on to a few threads on the inside.

The switch IMHO looks like it was original and works great, easy to push on the button rather than dealing with the magnetic switch. Now the issue is covering the switch to make it waterprooof. Base of the new switch is 0.45". Height is 0.70". I would like to find a soft rubber part, shaped like a old top hat, that would fit over the switch and could be glued on the DPV. Possibly this should be on another forum; I though it may be helpful to more people with dead Tyger Ray's if posted here. Happy to repost on do it yourself forum if requested.

tyger 001.jpgtyger 002.jpg
 
If possible you could fill the cavity of the switch with some type of grease which impedes (???) water from traveling in the switch. That said - you would probably have to do a rinse each time to make sure seawater wasn't corroding the leads, or other wiring. Some silicone grease, very soft beeswax might do the trick. I forget now - but if you did get a leak was the switch area separated from the battery compartment? I do remember some type of flimsy foam seal in the batt. compartment?

Additionally, the thought of a stuck switch in the on position might be an issue with a stronger scooter. If you had a runaway Tyger - wouldn't be too hard to deal with. Ride it slowly back to shore, or tie it off to something until it dies.
 
Thanks for your reply. I bought a couple extra switches and took one apart. There is a very tiny spring in there. Not sure that would be able to take any corrosion or even a bit of sand. Tinkering with pieces of an inner tube and a piece of thin silicone rubber today.
 
They only other thought I have is to completely seal up the hull penetration and run a larger remote/extended on/off switch which you could easily replace? This way you're not obligated to using a small switch which could be affected by potting material, or grit. Plus, swapping out switches would be a breeze vs. constantly fiddling with redoing switches at the penetration site. My experience with sealing off slippery plastics (like polyethylene) from water has not been so good.

Keep us apprised! :)

X
 
The designer put a magnetic switch there for a reason. You are discovering the reason. All other types leak.
 

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