DIY Dive lights canister switch

[wen gege]

Hi mate, i have been googling around the web to look for DIY canister dive light. They have it all in tutorial and theory of how to made 1 for ourself, but i couldn;t find any post that is teaching or explaining to us how they install their switches on their canister. i am almost 80% done with my DIY canister dive light, just left with the switch.

I would really appreciate if any one counld guide me along and post a few photos.

best regard,
David

 

[daveg1]

A simple toggle switch with a rubber boot added is what is most common.

 

[350xfire]

You should buy the "Divelight COmpanion" very good book on the subject. Includes everything you need to know about lights

 

[lucca brassi]

Also read this too apmhexseal
catalogue - instalation details.

The devil it is in details ( read right switch with right rubber boot ) :shocked2:

 

[antero]

I cut a notch for the switch so it would sink into the lid deep enough to leave room on the thread outside (for the seal). If lid is not thick you may get away without a notch. The nut that comes w/switch can be discarded entirely because switch will be used w/boot. Boot seal has a brass or ss nut molded in it. You may put silicone (i use plumbing teflon grease) into threads. You may seal around the switch w/epoxy to solidify the construction but unless the switch is water sealed it will not save the canister content if boot breaks. On the outside surface make sure that it is even and smooth before you screw on the boot seal. The bottom of the boot has a nut and the nut has a tiny o-ring like latex skirt on its bottom that seals against the lid face. Keep in mind that this seal is very gentle thing and definitely should be protected from accidental rupture/puncture. That is why usually it has a border around it aside from the reason of the accidental activation of a switch. Example: Picasa Web Albums - ARY - Gear
The alternative to mechanical rocker switch would be to use a relay connected to magnetic sensor similar to what is used on DPV (scooters). Sensor is activated from the outside w/strong magnet (for example fixed on a knob). That way the canister is not compromised with a hole thru it but you have more trouble w/wiring and more electric components that can fail. I used this method too: Picasa Web Albums - ARY - Gear

 

[350xfire]

If you do a toggle, get the boot with the nut on the bottom instead of the round one. You can get one on Ebay for $2.5. Don't get the round one as you will probably not be able to tighten it down enough. You can use a socket on the one with the nut.

 

[lucca brassi]

IP 68 rated toogle switch - with proper boot must be very reliable.

OTTO CONTROLS

other :

APEM

 

[wen gege]

anyone kind enough to post some photos?
Thanks

 

[ArtF]

Wen Gege

You've gotten some great comments here. Just remember on the boot seal for the toggle switch that THIS IS YOUR REAL SEAL. Even if the switch is rated IP68 this means it is only water resistant to 15 meters or 50 feet!

I've also used a magnetic reed switch with mixed results. Unless you use the switch to operate a relay the reed switch can lock up closed with the significant currents used to drive a light. I experienced this in developing a commercial LED videolight upgrade ( FTechX Classic 700; Home Page ) for the L&M Sunray series halogen lights. My own personal preference for a reliable (to be commercial product) light is to use an electronic solid state switch with magnetic actuation.

Art

art@ftechx.com

 

[wen gege]

i am using underwater Epoxy to glue the switch opening area as well as the wire gland. as i will be taking my advance next week. hope to have a brighter light during my night dive.

Hope my dive lights canister function well and no leak.
will post some photo after i m done