Save a Dive Kit

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avaseliades

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Messages
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Location
Florida
# of dives
25 - 49
I'm just starting to purchase my own equipment and am wondering peoples thoughts on what I should purchase in order to put together a small "Save a Dive"/ "Repair" Kit to take on board dive charters. Thanks.
 
I have the following in my Save a Dive Kit:
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Allen Wrench set
  • 6' of bungee cord
  • Aquaseal
  • 2 Stainless Steel Double Enders
  • 1 Medium snap bolt
  • Duct Tape
  • Black Electrical Tape
  • Brass O-ring Pick
  • Underwater Graphite Pencil
  • Tables
  • Extra HP and LP port plugs
  • Extra O-rings and seals/ gaskets
  • Lubricant
  • Batteries
  • Zip Ties
  • Ibeprophen and a Nasal Decongestant
  • Lighter
  • Rochester Wideband Condom Catheter
  • #24 Line
  • DIN to Yoke adapter
  • Sharpie
  • Fox40 Whistle on a short loop of bungee
  • 2' of surgical tubing
  • pre-cut lengths of bicycle tubing
This is all in a Mask Box.
 
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Add spare mask strap, fin strap, spare computer battery and gasket if you can change them yourself, a couple of plastic tie downs, and a spare snorkel keeper or thick rubber bands
 
extra mouthpieces. My adjustable is some weird "scuba tool" or something but it's basicalyl a wrench with knife and screwdriver on the end which is nice for emergency zip tie cutting.
Don't buy the "oring kit" junk from the dive shops. Go to Lowes or order em online.
Ones for the following
HP hoses/plugs
LP hoses/plugs
Yoke
DIN *you never know when that tech diver buddy of yours will need them and you'll be his new best friend*
I just have a small box of each, and that way you don't have to buy a whole kit of HP orings when you use one a year ish...
 
Big ones for me are 200 bar din insert and a yoke to din converter.

My regs and tank valves (200 BAR) are din. If I have to, I can use my regs with a yoke valve or my bottles with yoke reg.

I can't recall all the recommendations so far, but I also carry a length of cave line and a lighter as well as the other stuff mentioned. Also carry an additional necklace.
 
My train of thought is if I know how to fix it, I should have a replacement part.
If my LP/ HP hose breaks then I'm calling the dive and going to a dive shop.

For a really basic set up I'd get:
- 1x Mask strap
- 1x Fin Strap
- 1x Fin buckles (male and female)
- 1x snorkel keeper
- 2x weight keepers
- 1x Mouth piece
- 2x zipties

For a more advanced kit I'd add these: (this is in my personal kit)
- Scuba Multi tool (get one w/ an Oring remover)
- O-rings
- Silicone gel
- Q-tips (for the silicone gel)
- metal quick links (i use these on straps to attach my computer to my BC)
- Batteries (for lights and what not)

The idea is to be able to save your dive if something breaks. Honestly if anything breaks it's usually one thing, so no need to carry 2 fin straps etc in your dive kit.
I have extra parts I carry in a zip lock which I throw in my car.
All the actual save-a-dive kit stuff that I bring with me to the boat or in my on site packer I place in a pelican 1060 case. It's thin, waterproof, and durable. I'm able to fit everything from the above list in it, minus my multi tool.


PS Obviously you probably don't need quick links, but if you connect your computer with a plastic hose snap then get an extra one, or if it's on your wrist get an extra strap or shock cord etc.
 
on the hose mentioned. I don't carry extra hoses with me on a boat, but I always have 2 extra reg hoses, an extra inflater hose and a couple HP hoses, just in case. HP hose isn't as big of a deal because it takes hours for it to drain a tank, but the LP ones are a problem... Also why you should pressure check your gear before you leave and the night before
 
on the hose mentioned. I don't carry extra hoses with me on a boat, but I always have 2 extra reg hoses, an extra inflater hose and a couple HP hoses, just in case. HP hose isn't as big of a deal because it takes hours for it to drain a tank, but the LP ones are a problem... Also why you should pressure check your gear before you leave and the night before

How are the LP's not a problem? I would think it's the other way around because HP's are direct pressures from the tank to the first stage.
 
The orifice of the high pressure port on a regulator is so tiny that, if the hose blows, even though the pressure is very high, it takes a LONG time to empty a tank (in the neighborhood of 90 minutes, IIRC). However, the low pressure ports are large, to accomodate high ventilatory demand from the diver, so they empty a normal-sized tank in about 90 seconds.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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