the great 109 to 156 (using the new S-wing) and "lever" issues threads (continued)

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I am going to go the unbalanced route. I found a rebuild kit for a 200 on eBay for $15 that has the duro poppet I am hoping it will also include the seat.

Now it is time to tackle the mk10!

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2
Welcome to the Dark Side, and good find! The duro poppet usually comes with a seat that's flippable, so this gives you a couple of years' lead time to invest in awap's Magic Punch to make your own seat. You'll live happily ever after with a service cost that's about 2.5 cents.
 
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I am going to go the unbalanced route. I found a rebuild kit for a 200 on eBay for $15 that has the duro poppet I am hoping it will also include the seat.

Now it is time to tackle the mk10!

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

The seat is included plus it can be flipped. If you store the 109 with the purge depressed, you will avoid much of the engraving that occurs when the spring force is not offset by the IP. That will probably get you over 5 years of good use.
 
How can one store the 109 with the purge depressed? Does this also apply to a BA?
 
ScubaPro used to include a storage key that inserted into the "S" of the rubber cover. It pushed down on the diaphragm enough to separate the hard and soft seats. Some people like to use a couple of coins taped or held in place with a rubber band over the same area, but that tends to deform the diaphragm cover.

Using a device like this can extend the life of the soft seat, especially on the 109. It can be useful, but not as critical on the BA because the spring pressure is much lighter.

 
I suspect Scubapro must have had some problem with that original purge depressor design as they redesigned it in later years. For a while SP added a device built into the purge button on the G and R series but that fell by the wayside also. I suspect the realized such a device was counter to their more recent policy of annual dealer service. In any event, anthing soft that can be inserted between the metal and rubber cover will do the trick. My favorite is a 2" piece of soft tubing that goes completely across the exposed rubber cover. I store all my regs except the D-series (coaxial valve) that way. The unbalanced design benefits the most. The balanced barrel poppet design still gets over 50% of it closing force from the mechanical spring so it helps there also. The coaxial valve on the Air1 and D-series looks like it gets less than 25% of its closing force from the mechanical spring so the benefit is relatively small. Plus, the D-series design does not lent itself to depressing the purge during storage.

If you are into annual service, it probably does not matter at all. But if you are looking to maximize the time between service, it can really help.
 
they (SP) also made an object that looked like a flatened spoon (no handle) or "tear dropped" shaped that you put between the metal faceplate and the diaphragm (unfortunalely, that too led to deformation).....

Think its time for someone to come up with a good DIY (or production) solution for that old "key"....
 
.....and I thought the key fob was for the traditional round second stages and the key was for the Air 1.

On a side note The PBD was the best bit of kit made by Dacor (oooh madam).
 
My favorite is a 2" piece of soft tubing that goes completely across the exposed rubber cover.

can't quite visualize this, got a picture?
 
I think I still have one of those Dacor purge depressors. It was a big plastic C shaped clamp that fit over the front cover and had a disc in the middle.....I'll have a look through my junk drawer when I have time (and can remember to do so.)

Edit: Speaking of poor memories, I did a google search and found the thread below where I posted a picture before.


http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/205061-kind-silly-question-2.html#post3150857


40727d1192066041-kind-silly-question-img_5279-2-.jpg
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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