the great 109 to 156 (using the new S-wing) and "lever" issues threads (continued)

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watch out for this..... DSCF0518.jpg

I'm getting between 1.2" and 1.5", needs a little cycling I'm sure.
 
Well done, Bob.

While I think you found the problem (discrepant balance chamber) I don't think it was because one was longer than the other. I've used both of the type shown in your picture above with no problems. The longer one is to accommodate the two o-ring configuration of the s-wing poppet. The shorter one was used with the blue poppet with the metal stem and one o-ring in the balance chamber.

One small question. The o-rings on the poppet stem, what size are they? 2.2mm or 2.5mm id?
 
don't know - untouched originals in a factory sealed maintenance kit.....

Jury is still out - I'm getting some fluctuations in cracking pressure that swing back upwards of the 2" range....

Its going in the pool Monday or Wednesday to see what it is like. This one is an octo for my 250V.......

another one i have has a subtle click as the diaphragm goes to the lever, then cracks. Sweetly at 1". Thinking I may still be fighting a lever issue...
 
Well, in a thread long ago and far away The Master pointed out that "official" o-ring sizes sometimes change.

A couple comments for discussion:

....... the small balance chamber o-rings, SP p/n 363 (aka 399). They show on the 4/98 chart as being 2.54mm by 0.97mm ...... On another SP document, the kit table p/n 45-078-101, dtd 03/2002) .. the SP o-ring p/n 363 shows as being 2.2mm ID and 1mm wide. ......

If the o-ring sizes are changed with a different poppet, then it may make a small difference in compatibility so you might consider matching the poppet, o-rings, and balance chamber. Have you performed the DA Aquamaster/Zung balance chamber and poppet test? You may want to Google that to find the procedure....but I'm still getting the feeling something is dragging intermittently.
 
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....
another one i have has a subtle click as the diaphragm goes to the lever, then cracks. Sweetly at 1". Thinking I may still be fighting a lever issue...

I have a problem with my main G250 that could be related.
It originally came fitted with the older style lever, the middle one in brother couv's pic:

3_levers.jpg


Since I wanted nothing less than the latest & greatest, I swapped in the current lever, on the left. Then it started breathing funny: suck lightly, get a bit of air; suck harder, it kicks into high gear and delivers lots of air. A distinct 2 steps process.

I swapped again with 2 or 3 left levers, at least 1 of them is brand new straight from an LDS's drawer. No luck. So I swapped back the middle lever: problem solved, but don't ask me why. Maybe something with the openings of the barrel where the feet of the lever go.

So the moral of the story is: try another lever if you can. But swap 1 part at a time and test.

Edit
Yes, I swapped the poppets too, no change until I put the middle lever back.
 
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If you're sure the orifice and spring are in good shape (like trying different ones to make sure or using new) then my money's on the lever. You need to take the lever out and use a jeweler's file to carefully clean up the corner of the square holes that the lever feet fit in. That might help, probably not but it's free so it's worth a try. You want no burrs, and a nice clean square corner. While you're at it, check the lever feet, make sure there are no burrs or nicks.

Once that's done and it hasn't really helped :wink:, you can get a new lever. The latest lever with the curved feet has worked perfect for me every time. I have no idea why Zung had a problem with it on one of his regs.

The critical length on the balance chamber is the fat part; that's what determines the amount of spring compression. I have also had a sticky one from time to time; I just tossed them because they used to come in the G250 kit. I guess scubapro has determined that a $25 rebuild kit is just too cheap to include an additional 5 cent piece of plastic.....and they're not even doing free parts any more. Times must be tough.
 
... You need to take the lever out and use a jeweler's file to carefully clean up the corner of the square holes that the lever feet fit in. That might help, probably not but it's free so it's worth a try. You want no burrs, and a nice clean square corner...

Before you do that, recite a few chapters of your preferred Holy Scripture, take a deep breath and go real slow. The barrel is soldered to the body, and whatever you do to it lasts forever, which is a long time.

But then halocline has a way of dealing with things that works wonderful. First time I tried his Matt Magic, I was was scared s***less. But the results speak for themselves.
 
looks like I have to find a source for G250v levers.....
 
Update: the usual folks around here are continuing to be of great assistance, and I thank all of you. I have also received confirmation of obtaining levers and other goodies from the west coast, well below what crooks on *-**Y are pillaging us for. I promise to post another update once packages arrive, and time is available to continue efforts. I need to dive some too....
 
I have an unbalanced R109. I installed the G200 poppet and tuned it and it breathed poorly. Any old Conshelf I had breathed better. I put it away for awhile then I recently got it out to try and adjust it again. It still breathed poorly. Adjusting the orifice out resulted in freeflow while turning it in a hair resulted in poor breathing. I suspected the diaphragm was pushing on the lever, thus I needed to adjust the orifice in more to seal. I then noticed that one of the ears on the top of the lever stuck up more than the other. I bent it down with an adjustable wrench to the level of the other ear as shown by being parallel to the reg case. I was then able to adjust the orifice out without freeflow and the reg now breathes much better. I'm sure I could dive it now without trouble whereas before I was unsure. I am planning on trying independent back mounted doubles using an MK1/R109 on one tank and a Sea Hornet piston/USD Calypso on the other.
 
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