Emergency ascent with a stuck inflator

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Some good advice. Another option is to buy an AIR 2 type inflator which uses a significantly larger mechanism on the house so it is easier to manipulate with gloves on.

...now that's the most novel justification for an AIR2 type thingy I've heard yet! .....but why not suggest that the diver should just reach back, turn off the tank valve, and Spare Air their way safely to the surface instead ? :)
 
Some good advice. Another option is to buy an AIR 2 type inflator which uses a significantly larger mechanism on the house so it is easier to manipulate with gloves on.

Sure, maybe it's easier to remove an air 2 hose in the case of a stuck inflator. The only problem is that you also disable your alternate air source.

Yet another reason to avoid octo/inflators.
 
I think it would be very difficult to try to crimp an LP inflator hose quickly. It's a different story with a regulator hose.

Hose hats help, but if the fitting is stiff enough, they WILL pull back. I have learned to periodically put my LP inflator hose fittings through the ultrasonic cleaner and then use some silicon spray on them. It helps enormously.

A DiveAlert type horn is something you use on the surface, when you get there and the boat isn't near, or you need to get someone's attention. It seems to me that it should never be an emergency thing; you should always have time to get it out of a pocket. To establish buoyancy, you can orally inflate or drop weights. I suppose if you were dodging a shark, you might be in a lethal hurry . . . but short of that, you have time to deploy a marker buoy or get out your horn. On the other hand, a stuck inflator is a potentially injurious or lethal problem. I wouldn't insist on keeping a horn installed, if it interferes with coping with a much more dangerous problem.
 
I have used a Dive alert on the BC LP hose and it does get in the way so I always keep my dive alert on my drysuit LP hose. I practice disconnecting my drysuit hose by default every time I get out of the water because I always take my gear off before I take my gloves off. I wear three finger mitts and still have no problem getting the hose disconnected with the dive alert connected. If my drysuit inflator sticks which I have had happen numerous times I just stay in an upright position and the excess air blows out my neck seal while I disconnect the hose.
 
The dive alert should not make a significant difference in the inability to disconect the inflator hose. In actuallity it provides another connection (other than the hose itself) to allow disconnection.

I have thought for a pretty long time that the basic inflator hose mechanism could be redesigned for cold water use. A stuck inflator is probably the second most common scuba gear failure (after freeflow) and it might even be more dangerous. Seems that there should be a better solution.

As for the Air 2 humor, I was serious, it literaly pops off when you pull the flange back because it is a larger diameter connection, so the same air pressure provides a large force to pop the inflator away from the hose.
 
Sure, maybe it's easier to remove an air 2 hose in the case of a stuck inflator. The only problem is that you also disable your alternate air source.

Yet another reason to avoid octo/inflators.

Do we really plan for a double failure like that on recreational dives? A stuck inflator and then the second stage fails or the buddy runs low on air at the same time?

Most people don't, but I since I usually carry a pony bottle, loosing my AIR2 inflation/breathing function would be a pretty minor inconvenience.
 
Unfortunately most recreational diver do not regularly practice controlling their buoyancy manually and the dive would probably be over in the event of a stuck power inflator.
In the event that it caused a rapid accent I would go further to suggest at the very least a break in the days diving to access the effect of the accent on your body.
If an Air 2 was being used:
Yes most models use a LP hose with a larger connector that is easier to disconnect.
Yes it would disconnect the alternate second stage but most experienced divers realize that most regulator failures are due to 1st stage freeze in cold water. Disconnecting the freeflow puts the diver back in control and may allow the diver to work the button free and reconnect the LP hose. However without a pony bottle the safety margin is compromised and the diver should be accending. Since I believe the OP mentioned being Solo a Pony bottle should have been in the equation and the Air 2 would have been a fine selection given the larger connector and a pony bottle.
I have one further refinement. Given the OP seems to prefer being equipped with a DiveAlert my suggestion is an Aquatec Air 3. This is a Air 2 style octo/inflator with a built in sounder that works both underwater and on the surface. This would get the DiveAlert out of the divers way and give the larger disconnect on the LP hose.
 
If you haven't noticed ... Dumpster was referring to installing the Air2 hose

you handled it well.. It sounds as if it was pretty much a non-event.
I agree with the comments about the horn, and I use silicone spray on mt QD's too (food safe/water soluble)
 
I just saw a seaquest air 2 product that had a quick release built into it which looks like it would be easier to disconnect than the lp hose but it's also just something else to break.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom