Which AA Rechargeable Batteries??

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

A pulse-load battery tester is very helpful in finding the bad cell in a set, such as the ZTS Mini Multi-Battery Tester.
Another very simple test is to simply look at the cell voltages when you remove batteries from your strobe or light. If you have one cell that has noticeably lower capacity than the others, it will have an abnormally low voltage. Just use any old multimeter to measure the cell voltages.

If one is significantly lower voltage than the others, I run a circle around it with a magic marker and then use it again, because sometimes its just a fluke caused by not being fully charged before use. When a cell has collected two or three magic marker rings, I toss it.

Crude, but effective.
 
I'm confused. If you charge batteries the day before diving, why does it make a difference if they die after a few weeks of non-use. I've been using PowerEx 2700 NiMH's with generally good luck. They are frequently charged & used on a trip, but after that they sit around until next time (in 2-4 months). I'm not concerned if they're dead in a few weeks. Buy new sets every 2 years. I get 400+ shots in my YS110's at 1/2 power.

I don't mean low charge. I mean kaput. Dead. Charger won't even sense the stupid thing-light blinks and says "defective battery". Some of the fancier chargers are able to revive these, but I've had too many standard NimH batteries including 2500ma Powerex die after a few weeks of disuse. I've recharged the eneloops after four months off recovering from surgery and had them pop right back. The same day, I threw away 2 sets of Powerex and one set of standard Sanyo 2700ma that died from disuse.
 
As mentioned above, I did write an article that you can see on uwphotoguide. In general, the low discharge batteries (eneloop type) are best for strobes but the actual Eneloop ones are a bit on the low capacity side nowadays and my newest ones are only claiming 2000 mAh as opposed to the older 2100 mAh versions. I tried to make the test methodology as close to using strobes as I could and with any of the batteries I mentioned (most available from Thomas Distributing) you should get multiple hundred of flashes.

BTW, be very careful of the NiZn batteries. They have a higher voltage but they are a bit sleazy in how they label their capacity in mWh not mAh and I have had a couple of times where they blew the battery cap off a strobe after sitting overnight.

Bill
 
I found that my NiMH batteries that I thought were problematic in my Stingray G2 are not. It was due to the system not being set up properly. My ten year old Sanyos still hold a charge and power it as do my much newer Lenmars and the brand new PowerExs.

However, I dive pretty regularly and batteries rarely go more than 1-2 weeks without being recharged.
 
This has been an interesting discussion. Based on the comments I found out that Sanyo eneloop makes a "double x" aa battery bassed on eneloop technology that has 2500mAH. I purchased 8 of them on . If you go to this website you can find information on these batteries: SANYO eneloop | Ready to use Rechargeable Battery - The only battery you will ever need.

Regards,

Bill
On ebay they appear to be quite expensive. The Imedion 2400 mAh versions from Thomas Distributing are only $11 for four.
Bill
 
I personally use the C204 on trips, but have not used the 401. If you always use the 204 with 4 batteries, then you shouldn't get an overcharge issue. At home, the LaCrosse can't be beat it does so much more.

Bill
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom