Mares Abyss Octopus Freeflows

[danman132x]

I have the Mares Abyss 22 and the Mares Abyss Octopus.

They are nearly identical, however the octopus is extremely sensitive. It has to be almost completely facedown in order to prevent it from freeflowing. If it's sideways even, sometimes it bubbles slowly while about 10-0 feet deep. It's hard to keep it face down exactly when diving. This causes me to use up my air quicker. It's still relatively new, only used it on a few dives so far and don't want to get it serviced just yet on a few dives. I'm guessing the cracking pressure is too sensitive on it. Another thing, if I have it sideways for example in the tub to clean and shake it back and forth, it also makes it flow on every push. Is there anything I can do?

The primary abyss 22 doesnt have this problem with anything, even when upside down in the water.

 

[tbone1004]

first, please understand how this forum is set up. The manufacturers subforums are for when you want an official response from that manufacturer. In this case the answer from them is only "please take it to an authorized service technician for repair". If you post in multiple sections it won't get you any more responses but clogs the forum and makes it very confusing when people go to search for this. Mods will be merging one of these two threads into the other just as an fyi.

What you are describing is basically a regulator that is tuned very "hot". It needs to be de-tuned a bit, but may also be signs of your first stage IP starting to creep, take it to a tech and have them bench test it for IP stability, then ask them to tune the octo back a little bit.
That said, even a very "hot" regulator shouldn't freeflow as long as the housing is full of water so this is either set too light, or the IP is higher than when it was tuned last.

Freeflowing while shaking the regulator is normal as you are putting pressure on the diaphragm so it is supposed to, if you do it hard enough it will freeflow continuously.

 

[Zak OHara]

I have the Mares Abyss 22 and the Mares Abyss Octopus.

They are nearly identical, however the octopus is extremely sensitive. It has to be almost completely facedown in order to prevent it from freeflowing. If it's sideways even, sometimes it bubbles slowly while about 10-0 feet deep. It's hard to keep it face down exactly when diving. This causes me to use up my air quicker. It's still relatively new, only used it on a few dives so far and don't want to get it serviced just yet on a few dives. I'm guessing the cracking pressure is too sensitive on it. Another thing, if I have it sideways for example in the tub to clean and shake it back and forth, it also makes it flow on every push. Is there anything I can do?

The primary abyss 22 doesnt have this problem with anything, even when upside down in the water.

Hi, and thanks for your question. I will have to confirm that we don't give servicing suggestions, particularly for life support equipment to those that are untrained by our company. You likely do not have the tools and gauges to properly assess the issue. Since your primary is not free flowing, it is unlikely to be 1st stage IP issues, but you should take it to a certified tech to be sure. If I had to guess, I would say a simple adjustment to the octopus 2nd stage seat, or demand lever would remedy the situation. This is a very quick and easy adjustment to be made by an authorized Mares Lab technician, they can be found at a Mares authorized dealer. If they do not have a technician on staff, they can send it to us. I would think the dealer that sold you the product would take care of you as a service for being their customer. Follow this link to find your nearest Mares dealer and or Lab. Authorized Dealers - Sales Network - Mares

Best,

 

[danman132x]

first, please understand how this forum is set up. The manufacturers subforums are for when you want an official response from that manufacturer. In this case the answer from them is only "please take it to an authorized service technician for repair". If you post in multiple sections it won't get you any more responses but clogs the forum and makes it very confusing when people go to search for this. Mods will be merging one of these two threads into the other just as an fyi.

What you are describing is basically a regulator that is tuned very "hot". It needs to be de-tuned a bit, but may also be signs of your first stage IP starting to creep, take it to a tech and have them bench test it for IP stability, then ask them to tune the octo back a little bit.
That said, even a very "hot" regulator shouldn't freeflow as long as the housing is full of water so this is either set too light, or the IP is higher than when it was tuned last.

Freeflowing while shaking the regulator is normal as you are putting pressure on the diaphragm so it is supposed to, if you do it hard enough it will freeflow continuously.

Thank you for the heads up, will be watching it from now on.

Hi, and thanks for your question. I will have to confirm that we don't give servicing suggestions, particularly for life support equipment to those that are untrained by our company. You likely do not have the tools and gauges to properly assess the issue. Since your primary is not free flowing, it is unlikely to be 1st stage IP issues, but you should take it to a certified tech to be sure. If I had to guess, I would say a simple adjustment to the octopus 2nd stage seat, or demand lever would remedy the situation. This is a very quick and easy adjustment to be made by an authorized Mares Lab technician, they can be found at a Mares authorized dealer. If they do not have a technician on staff, they can send it to us. I would think the dealer that sold you the product would take care of you as a service for being their customer. Follow this link to find your nearest Mares dealer and or Lab. Authorized Dealers - Sales Network - Mares

Best,

I just called a local dive shop who specializes with Mares and he's willing to look at it for free for me, he believes it's just a simple adjustment needed and will bench test everything for the pressures. If it turns out to be more then he will charge me some. But like you said, the primary works perfectly with the 1st stage that comes with the Abyss 22

 

[tbone1004]

Outside of these subforums we can speak more freely, but here's what will happen so you're aware.

He will put the regulator on the bench and pressurize it. Will put the IP gauge on which is just a simple cheap pressure gauge that connects to your power inflator. These are very good to have in your dive kit because it basically is like a cardiograph for your regulator.
https://www.divegearexpress.com/compact-ip-gauge
https://www.divegearexpress.com/deluxe-ip-gauge

Once it is verified that the IP is stable, he will use a magnehelic gauge to check the performance of your second stage and verify that these are within spec. If they aren't, then he can adjust them essentially with an allen key.
https://www.divegearexpress.com/deluxe-second-stage-in-line-adjusting-tool-w-ip-gauge
It will likely look like this. This allows him to adjust the second stage without having to depressurize and purge. I'm not certified on Mares, so not sure of the nuances, but the tech should allow you to watch what he's doing and explain it if they're any good. Don't know any that have declined a request to watch the tuning process. Very simple, takes a few minutes 5-10 max, and will get you back in business.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

The Mares Abyss is a "two adjustment" classic downstream. The two adjustments that can be made are orifice depth and lever height.

This is a "simple" fix for a tech, not a full service.

If you are mechanically inclined and careful, you can easily "de-tune" the Abyss by removing the 2nd stage from the hose, and using the correct sized allen wrench to ever-so-slightly turn the orifice clockwise, and then re-test the 2nd stage.

Probably turning the orifice about 30 degrees (from 12 o'clock to 1 o'clock) will probably de-tune it enough to solve the problem... a little goes a long way... however, tightening the orifice also lowers the demand lever, further de-tuning the 2nd stage.

If the lever is lowered too much, 2nd stage performance will suffer, so ideally you should re-adjust the demand lever height after tightening the orifice to maintain full lever travel. Many folks just tweak the orifice and call it good.... and sometimes it is.

What I recommend is readjusting lever height, so that you maintain proper 2nd stage performance, even though you are intentionally de-tuning it a little to make it less "fussy".

Best wishes.

Ohh one last note: If you do decide to adjust orifice depth, always depress the purge button while turning the orifice. This will prevent the soft seat being cut by the edge of the orifice.

 

[danman132x]

Hey guys, just wanted to update ya'll, I brought it to the shop this morning and he hooked it up to the tester and got it fixed for me. No longer dribbles and flows like it did before. IP pressure was about 5 lbs too high so just a very slight decrease there (he turned a screw on the first stage), and he also disconnected the pressure hose and adjusted the orifice very slightly on the octopus. He didn't mess with the demand lever, but now it works great and still breathes easily. He did all that for free which was really nice of him, only took 5 minutes and I didn't buy it there either. I offered a tip but he declined, however he has my business in the future and for the VIP today on the tank. Great word of mouth by the people around here.

 

[tbone1004]

which shop?

also the orifice on the octo does effect the demand lever, just from the bottom, you should never have to bend them or anything.