Trip Report: Oct 31 - Nov 8; How I learned to love wet rocks

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azstinger11

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Location
San Diego, CA
# of dives
500 - 999
I think its important to caveat this review for any future readers. I booked the travel in more or less the height of the 2020 summer COVID-19 pandemic where Mexico was one of the few places Americans could travel. The week prior to our travel a hurricane hit the island (Zeta) prior to departure what would turn into Hurricane Zeta had more or less formed and was actively brewing in Caribbean (but still had a chance to not form, not hit Cozumel, etc).

Summary:

We booked this trip explicitly to escape the US 2020 election news cycle and used credit card points for the flight and hotel.

We originally had morning and afternoon boats on Cozumel planned for 5 days, with 1 day in Cenotes. The day of our trip over to Playa was also the day the ferry service stopped running so we were more or less stranded in Playa for the next 3 days. While concerning we did have multiple days prior to our flight out of Cozumel (note: passports, luggage, computers, etc. all in the hotel in Cozumel), so we just keep getting one night hotel stays in Playa and buying shirts from our Dive operator and various cenotes along with some basics to keep going. Overall I was totally enthralled with the cenotes and more or less underwhelmed by Cozumel. Not to say we won’t be back to Cozumel (and particularly with COVID travel restrictions returning is far more likely) but its back to the bottom of dive travel destinations. I have to thank Cozumel for really introducing me into the cave scene ( a single two tank dive day might not have been enough to set the lure), but I'm in no rush to return. There are just so many other places to explore to prioritize a place that had okay diving and was in our view overly Americanized/tourist focused, however as mentioned below I eagerly await my next trip to Playa/Tulum.

Hotel 1:
Hotel Cozumel 2/10 (would not recommend ,and would not stay at again): We booked Hotel Cozumel (prior to the Wyndam acquisition) base off generally positive reviews. We booked a king bed but got 2 two twins, every day we were in Cozumel we had to go to front desk to get new keys ( the minimum number of times was 3), the COVID cauldron (aka the hot tub) was alive and well, very little guest enforcement of mask wearing, social distancing etc., room’s AC remote didn’t work (the display was permanently blank, the unit made sounds based off the remote but no idea what was going on), breakfast was pretty objectively terrible, no in room fridge, no English news or sports channel for the TV, and WiFi didn’t work in the room, showers that were designed for hobbits not people (i'm not a tall man, and the shower nozzle was on the low part of my shoulder blades), open drains in the bathroom. I would summarize this as a hotel trying to appear as a mid to high tier with bargain basement amenities/service. I will never stay in this hotel again and would highly recommend against it for everyone else.


Hotel 2:
Casa Melissa ( Playa Del Carmen) 9/10 – Great little hotel, given we were paying pretty reduced rates, about $50 USD/night, but overall very nice. We stayed on all 3 floors and each room was different but nice. All had working fridges, ACs that worked, good views, and a great location to the pier. The only real complaint I have is that wifi in the rooms was spotty, I’m not sure how I’d feel at the full price rate but at the lower rate it was a phenomenal hotel.

Cozumel Dive Center:
Tres Pelicanos 10/10 – They were reasonably priced, professional, and all around an excellent operator. We ended up canceling with them (outside of the cancel window, and they were nothing but professional about it) after 1 trip due to port being closed and wanting to continue diving. When we eventually return I will be re-booking with them. We went two sites on Palancar and they were okay? For all the hype I was expecting more, viz was great by my view but medium by the guides (50-70ft), almost no current.

Cenotes Dive Center:
Under the Jungle 15/10: Far exceed any and all expectations I had from a cenotes dive center. For the original first day they arranged a cab for us, and afterwards our guide picked us up in his personal vehicle and dropped us off afterwards. They re-arranged dive groups to make sure our skills were matched up with the best sites/guides. They were beyond accommodating with our ever in flux schedule. I am planning on doing all my future cavern/cave courses through them. Sadly I don’t recall all the amazing lunch spots that our guide took us too but they were all really good.

Cozumel Dining:
Overall 6/10 – Major complaint was it was overly Americanized cuisine. While the salsa sucked the Guac was amazing.

New Especias 10/10 – The off menu lionfish marsala was by far and away the best meal we had on the island
No Name Bar 9/10 – Their steak tacos were really good, overpriced but good.
Thirty Cougar 5/10 – Meh…… Overpriced and mediocre
Cerveceria Punta Sur 8/10 – Pretty solid pizza and brewery

Playa Del Carmen Dining:
Overall 9/10 - This is food worth traveling for. It was unique, inspired, flavorful, and well priced/valued.

Primo 10/10 – My favorite meal of the trip! This obliterates any of the Cozumel dining. The ambience from the mesquite charcoal, the smells, simply amazing.
Belmonte 10/10 – My second favorite meal and again league ahead of the Cozumel offerings.
Don Mario 8/10 – Solid Italian offerings, nothing amazing but everything was very good.


Edit: Just to be crystal clear, we had a great trip and will return to Cozumel eventually. It didn't quite wow us like Bonaire, but we'll be back for sure. The review might sound critical of Cozumel, that wasn't really my intention. I just wanted to give a report that was truthful to my experiences as I encountered them. It sounds like we missed some good dining spots on the island, the weather was absolutely crappy which meant we didn't get to experience the reefs in the best conditions, etc.
 
Thanks for sharing your honest review, it is always good to hear new opinions on Coz travel.

Glad everything eventually worked out with the ferry and getting you back to the island!

If I read correctly, you only did 2 dives on Cozumel due to weather? What a bummer!
 
welcome to the wonderful world of the cenotes. which ones did you get to dive?
 
Thanks for the review and post! I've only dived outside of the US once, always eager to read others' reports and experiences.
 
Thanks for sharing your honest review, it is always good to hear new opinions on Coz travel.

Glad everything eventually worked out with the ferry and getting you back to the island!

If I read correctly, you only did 2 dives on Cozumel due to weather? What a bummer!

That is correct, we only got the morning boat trip the day after we arrived.

welcome to the wonderful world of the cenotes. which ones did you get to dive?

We did Eden, Tajma-ha, Dos Ojos (both loops, so two dives), The Pit, Taak bi ha ( my favorite cavern of the trip), Angelita, carwash
 
Thanks for sharing your trip. Forced flexibility is sometimes our best friend to open our eyes to new adventures. Glad you stayed safe and made new memories to help you escape 2020 craziness!
 
sounds like the cenotes were great. under the jungle has a great rep.

really shocked at your experience at hotel coz. we really like it there. always had great staff. room was always clean. i don't think we ever had a fridge but i would think you would have known that ahead of time. if we buy special drinks off site we just fill the sink with ice. the food is nothing to write home about but we always enjoyed the big breakfasts.

perhaps more time on coz was needed to find some better food options. sorry you were disappointed. we rarely were.

glad you enjoyed playa so much. we do as well. we like to combine coz and playa into a two week trip. lots to do. great food options. and of course you got the cenotes. never stayed at casa melissa. good spot close to the ferry though. glad that worked out. we try to stay further north now. further from the ferry etc.

nice review. thx !!
 
That is correct, we only got the morning boat trip the day after we arrived.



We did Eden, Tajma-ha, Dos Ojos (both loops, so two dives), The Pit, Taak bi ha ( my favorite cavern of the trip), Angelita, carwash

oh yeah, you ticked off all the boxes. good show. how did you like the pit and angelita? la calavera is equally awesome.
 
sounds like the cenotes were great. under the jungle has a great rep.

really shocked at your experience at hotel coz. we really like it there. always had great staff. room was always clean. i don't think we ever had a fridge but i would think you would have known that ahead of time. if we buy special drinks off site we just fill the sink with ice. the food is nothing to write home about but we always enjoyed the big breakfasts.

perhaps more time on coz was needed to find some better food options. sorry you were disappointed. we rarely were.

glad you enjoyed playa so much. we do as well. we like to combine coz and playa into a two week trip. lots to do. great food options. and of course you got the cenotes. never stayed at casa melissa. good spot close to the ferry though. glad that worked out. we try to stay further north now. further from the ferry etc.

nice review. thx !!

The fridge at Hotel Coz wasn't a big deal, a little shocking for the tier/price but I included it more for posterity and anyone else considering it. One thing I didn't mention is that they didn't have any blankets on the beds. With the wonky AC remote we either woke up in the middle night freezing (I tried turning it off/on and then pressing the temp up arrow a bunch and it beeped a lot but still froze us out in the middle of the night) or turned it off prior to going to bed with the room getting a little damp/muggy by the time we woke up. They key cards were probably the most annoying part. One time it took us 6 consecutive trips (room -> front desk -> room) to get a key that worked, and they keycards worked for 1 maybe 2 entrances to the room before they failed again. They kept saying don't put it near your phone, so one time I comically kept it in an out stretched arm the entire way and it still didn't work, they said it must have touched a phone when i came back with a card that didn't work. I've never had hotel key cards fail with such frequency, maybe the humidity plays havoc with them or something. I wonder how much of the breakfasts being bad was just a COVID related thing, to me all the stuff in the warming trays was pretty bad (tried the waffles, french toast, chilaquiles, hash browns, beans, eggs) so I usually just had a cup of coffee, yogurt and some fruit.

I'm not sure that Casa Melissa would be our choice hotel if we knew we were staying in Playa for any planned length of time and had some kind of transportation, but it would be an excellent bag drag hotel. Since we were only booking single nights at a time, needed a place with walk-able food and shopping (phone chargers, toothbrushes, all the stuff to get by), and usually we'd swing by the pier to see if they were running or not so already in the area. I actually have no idea where we'll stay when we return so if you any recommendations I'd be all ears. We saw some resorts and communities between Playa and the shop and always Tulum, but not sure.

Outside of the breakfasts we never had a bad meal the entire trip Coz included. I'd defiantly return to Punta Sur and New Espicias on a return trip, the others are a maybe. I'm sure we missed some great stuff, so we'll keep exploring for sure next time we're back.
 
oh yeah, you ticked off all the boxes. good show. how did you like the pit and angelita? la calavera is equally awesome.

I preferred The Pit over angelita just simple since there was more to see on the way back up. The hydrogen sulfer cloud was really cool in both places though. Carwash was really interesting when we were there. The first 5ft or so was just the orange layer of zero viz, then you dropped down and the viz just opened up, very cool effect when you looked back to the opening had divers silhouetted in orange. Since it was raining and overcast just about the entire time we were there, we didn't get a lot of the spots where sun beams shone through, but it was still amazing.
 
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