1984 Faber Tanks. Same specs as today? Is it galvanized?

[JessH]

I recently purchased two LP faber tanks that I was told are LP80s. Today I realized that they are 8" tanks and not 7.25" like I thought. Looking at the spec charts online it looks like they may actually be LP95s. Would the specs I am finding today be the same for a Faber tank manufactured in 1984 or were they making them using different dimensions then? If they might be different does anyone have specs for older Faber tanks?

These tanks are not painted like newer Faber tanks, I believe that they are galvanized but I am not certain about that. Would these tanks be galvnized?

There appears to be a small amount of rust on the outside of the tank but it is mostly where the hydro stamps are. These tanks were just visualed before being sold to me and I was told that there is a very small amount of rust on the inside but nothing to be concerned about. They only have a year left before they need to be hydroed again so I was thinking that I will dive them as is for the time being and in a year possibly think about cleaning them up for nitrox use. Should I be concerned about the small amount of rust before then? I only plan on using these tanks in fresh water.

I was also told that one of the valves is missing the dip tube and that I might want to get the shop to replace it. I am planning on replacing the valves with pro valves when I get them hydroed and cleaned for nitrox so I have been toying with the idea of just waiting a year and diving it without the dip tube. Am I nuts?

The current hydro on these tanks does not have the plus rating and it looks like it has not recieved it since its origional manufacturer hydro. Does anyone know of a hydro place in central texas that will do the plus rating?

~Jess

 

[DA Aquamaster]

The specs are the same and I believe the older Faber tanks were galvanized but I am not sure when they stopped. There should not be any rust in the hydro test stamps with a galavanized tank.

I would not use the tank without a dip tube - they are cheap and easy to replace.

Fabers usually have the REE number stamped on the shoulder which makes it very easy for the hydro tester to do the "+" rating as it eliminates the headaches in the wall stress calculations - just ask for it when you schedule the hydro test.

 

[JessH]

The specs are the same and I believe the older Faber tanks were galvanized but I am not sure when they stopped. There should not be any rust in the hydro test stamps with a galavanized tank.

There is definitely some rust around the hydro stamps. The one done in 93 doesn't seem to have any rust around it but the ones done in 91 and 03 do. The tank seems to have that galvanized finish look to it, but I don't really know much about galvanized tanks.

Fabers usually have the REE number stamped on the shoulder which makes it very easy for the hydro tester to do the "+" rating as it eliminates the headaches in the wall stress calculations - just ask for it when you schedule the hydro test.

I see REE stamped into my new Faber tanks, but can't seem to find it on these.

In addition to Faber these tanks have Scubapro stamped into them, they also still have what I can only assume is the origional Scubapro sticker on them, most of it atleast. I plan on removing thse stickers, any suggestions on the best method? Most of them look like someone has tried to scrape them off and given up.

~Jess

 

[oxyhacker]

Older Faber 95s usually don't have the REE, but easy enough to get it off a newer one - it's 76.

Scubapro did have Galvanized 95s back in the 80's. Wonder why they stopped?

Fabers usually have the REE number stamped on the shoulder which makes it very easy for the hydro tester to do the "+" rating as it eliminates the headaches in the wall stress calculations - just ask for it when you schedule the hydro test.

 

[CompuDude]

There's an active thread from the past few days re sticker removal. Try goo gone and a hair dryer, in combination, seems to be the gist. Expect to put some work into it.