Annoyed with Seafrogs quality (or lack therof)

[Pyndle]

Hi,

Reporting back here - after removing the rubber and the plastic part, it seems to be working much better now, thanks a lot for the recommendations/tips!

Still annoying with seafrogs though. I wanted to sell my case, it's basically unsellable (or it will be at a ridiculously cheap price).

 

[Barmaglot]

IIRC, I sold my first SeaFrogs housing (the purple translucent fixed-port one) for like $150.

 

[Barmaglot]

Found that old convo; it was $250 for housing + wet dome.

 

[gummybun]

I am really glad you have found an improvement! Thanks for letting us know. All underwater gear seems to need a lot of attention, hope you get past the agro and get back to the fun stuff!

 

[DazedAndConfuzed]

I had a Meikon housing for my old Sony RX100, was the only one that was sub $1k back then. The plastic seems to be thinner, thus under depth, it squeezed my camera tighter, eventually causing the dreaded stuck lens. I tried to get around that by setting at a certain zoom, then inserting it in the housing and not touching the zoom, but sometimes, even focusing back and forth causes the same problem. Prying the camera casing slightly open and removing the rubber bumper in the housing helps a little, but by then, the damage to the flex cable is already done.

My shutter button is also stuck, not returning to its original position. I've removed the shaft, soaked it in vinegar, scrubbed it, lubed it, stretched the spring, all to no avail. I ended up jamming a o-ring picker under the shutter button and use it to pry the button back up after ever shot.

They also forgot to put a slot or holes in the 67mm lens thread, requiring lens removal during and after the dive. At least the threaded mount is not made of plastic, which some more expensive housing are.

 

[Barmaglot]

They also forgot to put a slot or holes in the 67mm lens thread, requiring lens removal during and after the dive. At least the threaded mount is not made of plastic, which some more expensive housing are.

I'm not aware of any manufacturer putting drain holes in their 67mm mounts; burping wet lenses is what everyone is doing. In fact Backscatter sells a special o-ring for WWL-1 to completely seal its contact point with the port so that it can be used for over/under split shots. Me, I splash down with my wet lens (AOI UWL-09F) in a thigh pocket, attach it on my way down, then unscrew it and put it back in the pocket at safety stop.

 

[DazedAndConfuzed]

I'm not aware of any manufacturer putting drain holes in their 67mm mounts; burping wet lenses is what everyone is doing. In fact Backscatter sells a special o-ring for WWL-1 to completely seal its contact point with the port so that it can be used for over/under split shots. Me, I splash down with my wet lens (AOI UWL-09F) in a thigh pocket, attach it on my way down, then unscrew it and put it back in the pocket at safety stop.

My old Oly PT-015 for the 5050 had little holes to drain out the water. I've dropped my wet lens once or twice while descending, having to equalize and burp the lens. Plus when tightening the threads after flooding the space with water, one is never fully sure if the lens is tightened due to pressure exerted by the water or reaching the end of the threading.

 

[Lewis88]

I'm not aware of any manufacturer putting drain holes in their 67mm mounts; burping wet lenses is what everyone is doing. In fact Backscatter sells a special o-ring for WWL-1 to completely seal its contact point with the port so that it can be used for over/under split shots. Me, I splash down with my wet lens (AOI UWL-09F) in a thigh pocket, attach it on my way down, then unscrew it and put it back in the pocket at safety stop.

My UWL-04 lens and my FIX S95 housing had notches cut in the threads so they could drain, even when fully screwed down.

 

[David Haas]

All Fantasea housings for compacts (made by AOI) have slots 12 and 6 o'clock around the 67mm threads allowing air bubbles to go out once submerged.

If I use any 67mm thread on accessory lens (usually only a M67 II "Air Lens") I simply look in the front once submerged. I "fan" around the 6 o'clock slot watching bubbles escape at the 12 o'clock slot. Most times this works fine negating the unthread / thread on process.

If not I spin it off and burp it.

David Haas