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Another "Help me build my GoPro rig" thread

Discussion in 'GoPro and Action Cams' started by unwantedsn, May 7, 2019.

  1. Ministryofgiraffes

    Ministryofgiraffes Manta Ray

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Toronto
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    Also, bear in mind that if you run it continuously at 4K you ‘may’ find it runs hot and you get fogging/condensation issues, even with the Condensation tabs, so resist the urge to keep it rollin’ Rollin’ rollin’ for a full dive.
     
    Tournesol2000 likes this.
  2. Ministryofgiraffes

    Ministryofgiraffes Manta Ray

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Toronto
    744
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    There is a dude on eBay who makes ‘v’ trays. I bought the package from Backscatter with solas and then the eBay v one when I bought the macromate mini. I thing the v one was around 100 bucks. It’s a good one. Have fun :) it’s addictive :)
     
  3. D_Fresh

    D_Fresh Barracuda

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    Definitely put a few anti-fog pads in the housing... should take care if any heat induced fogging while filming 4k.

    As far as the filters, it's still probably a decent investment.... if you're less than 30' and filming fish above a reef on a sunny day, the lights won't do much, so save their batteries and use the filter. Check out my post in this forum for a comparison of with and without the Shallow filter at 9.7m.

    The tray looks decent, but you might want a wider one later on. Personally, I feel a wider tray is a bit more stable. But either way, the tray is pretty much the cheapest component to change out, so feel free to experiment.

    Nice setup! I hope you enjoy and get some awesome footage! Just don't get too lost in filming and forget your buddy :wink:

    :cheers:
     
  4. caruso

    caruso Banned

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: Long Island, NY
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    Interesting, I've had different results. I find the shallow filter to improve colors dramatically at depths of 20' up to around 60', and the darker red "dive" filter to make things too red at shallow to mid depth, and "deep" filters to be too dark. At deeper depths I use lights anyway.

    Here's a short video shot with a Hero 4, no lights at a depth of 27' showing Shallow Filter -->>No Filter -->> Dive Filter.

     
  5. unwantedsn

    unwantedsn ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Nebraska
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    Thank you for all of the tips guys.
     
  6. D_Fresh

    D_Fresh Barracuda

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    Agreed, check my footage here without any post processing...



    And here with just a touch of Magenta correction in Premiere Pro's Fast Color Corrector....

     
  7. tep

    tep ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: San Diego CA USA
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    That looks awesome, and is leading to one of my main questions - about the distance between the lights and the camera. You seem to have almost 2 ft from the lens to the lights. Why so far? Why is it better to get the lights farther away?

    Is this to get the lights from the "side" so there's less backscatter than you would have if the light and lens are side by side? Or is there some other effect going on here?
     
  8. Scuba Lawyer

    Scuba Lawyer Barracuda

    # of Dives: 5,000 - ∞
    Location: Laguna Beach, California
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    I've aways had my lights "high and outside" on both still and video systems. Backscatter limiting is the main reason for me. I point 'em so the subject is just inside the edge of the light "circle" (if you will) on both sides. Plenty of light and nothing to reflect back particulate toward the lens. My 2psi. I'm sure others have different configurations and reasons. ?
     
  9. D_Fresh

    D_Fresh Barracuda

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    Reducing backscatter is the #1 reason for mounting lights far off center from your camera's FOV.

    The #2 benefit is better modeling. If a subject is light directly straight on, the light tends to have a flattening effect. Highlights and Shadows are your friends for attractive photos/videos.
     
    Scuba Lawyer likes this.

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