Another new guy asking about cameras

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I have been using a Canon G11 with an Ike housing.

One thing that is really important for photography is buoyancy skills. If you are pleasure diving, sort of floating around and not crashing into things is usually good enough. When you are taking photos, being able to precisely control your position is critical.

Always shoot RAW. RAW format gives you the ability to do your white balance in post processing. Monkeying with WB under water is just another thing to drive you nuts. Also, RAW gives are latitude on exposure, highlights and shadows.


I do my shooting in manual mode. That gives me more control. I know what my F stop is, what my ISO is and what my shutter speed is.

Use a strobe. Red light is absorbed in the water column quickly followed by orange, yellow and so on. At around 70', all that is left is green and blue.

Better yet, use 2 strobes. Two strobes will give you better coverage and will prevent shadows. They will also cut down on backscatter. This option is probably outside of your current budget.

Now speaking of the G11, in macro mode, you are stuck using wide angle. The problem with that is that you have to get REALLY, REALLY close. Usually it is too close to get a shot. A wet lens, will allow you to use macro and "stand off".

I found that the more I shot, the more I used wide angle. The closer you get to your subject the better. You have less junk in the water to mess up the image and your strobe works better. I found that even at my widest setting, it was not wide enough. Now I don't think the Canon housing or the Ike housing really has a good wide angle option in dome or wet lens. That requires housings that cost more.

Unfortunately, when using live view , you get shutter lag. I found that the lag was not too bad if I could get a focus lock. But for small, fast moving fish like those hyper damsel fish, it is really hard to get a photo.

Now I have heard good things about the Pen system. Those cameras have larger sensors than the Canon G11 which is a good thing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jax
Good points above. Another item you may want to look at are the buoyance arms from ultralight. As you start to build your rig you will see how easier it is to use if it is trimmed properly.
 
The DC1400 is very easy to navigate through the menu the piano keys are excellent to use, the LCD screen is verp sharp and easy to see - the Canon G12 is a superior camera a bigger censor a lot more manual controls and takes a great land and water shot. The Dc1400 appears to be more robust, in australia the best I could get the G12 with housing was just over $1200.00 out of my budget.
 
As for the strobe issue, with two dives per year and only 25 lifetime dives, I'd start with a solid camera. A strobe or two would really add a certain extra oomph to your shots, but you need to start somewhere before you can think of going to the next level. A strobe would take at least a couple of dives to figure it out which for you would be a whole vacation of diving. Learn whatever you get first, then add the strobe.

As for brand, I always root for Canon. The Sealife you are considering was originally built specifically for divers, true, but the optics are terrible, especially next to the camera manufacturers that have focused on taking a solid picture before making them waterproof. The Olympus isn't a bad choice, however Canon has just come out with their own 4/3 camera (The G1X) that seems to be a vast improvement on their already successful lineup of G-series cameras.
 
I am pretty decent with my buoyancy. Not perfect but can hover around without any problems and stay pretty still. My instructors have really helped me understand the importance of those types of skills. I like taking my time and looking at things. Which is why I think I will enjoy trying U/W photography.

After reading what you fine folks have said I think having a better camera without the 2 flashes is better than having a mediocre camera with them. Having a camera that wont be as nice or serve any more purpose outside of diving might not be a wise choice. At least with a camera like the Canon or Olympus I can use in other situations and it give good quality.

I think I kind of fell in love with the big buttons and easy zoom because I feel a little intimidated about the whole thing.

I guess I need to find out what camera and housing I can afford. Then see what a strobe would cost and if it would even attach properly to the said housing.

I think I will go and research the different Canons and Olympus cameras.

Thanks folks. I love all this input.
 
Read some reviews on that lens.....

Are you referring to the slight vignetting or the attaching of the lens?

I searched a bit but didn't see any specific article saying it was horrible. But I must admit my google-fu is not great.
 
since you are a beginner diver, I wouldn't sweat it out on a full blown camera & strobe. You could just get a relatively cheap P&S camera and its cheap associated housing, all for less than $400. You might never really get beyond snapshot type of picture taking, given the fact that you weren't an avid photographer above water, not sure if you will be one underwater. Also, if you do get into it and feel like getting a strobe later, you can always get it, from relatively basic auto exposure ones in the $300 range to TTL that starts at $600-$700.

Plus, pretty much all the cheap cameras nowdays does 1080p video, which the G12 still doesn't.

Also, with one of those full blown cameras that has 30 buttons and 20 settings, you will be confusing yourself changing from macro mode w/strobe to wide angle mode & attaching a wet lens & w/o strobe & doing some white balance...in that time, you might have sank down or floated up 30ft on a wall without even knowing it.
 
since you are a beginner diver, I wouldn't sweat it out on a full blown camera & strobe. You could just get a relatively cheap P&S camera and its cheap associated housing, all for less than $400. You might never really get beyond snapshot type of picture taking, given the fact that you weren't an avid photographer above water, not sure if you will be one underwater. Also, if you do get into it and feel like getting a strobe later, you can always get it, from relatively basic auto exposure ones in the $300 range to TTL that starts at $600-$700.

Plus, pretty much all the cheap cameras nowdays does 1080p video, which the G12 still doesn't.

Also, with one of those full blown cameras that has 30 buttons and 20 settings, you will be confusing yourself changing from macro mode w/strobe to wide angle mode & attaching a wet lens & w/o strobe & doing some white balance...in that time, you might have sank down or floated up 30ft on a wall without even knowing it.

I went over the Canon G12 camera with my wife last night. She, as an avid photographer, said that it would be nice to have at home as well since her dSLR does not do video. I don't think the 720p really concerns us in terms of not being 1080p. I do have some camera use and experience just not as much as I would like or need. That said you are probably right about not necessarily needing the strobe at this point in time. I just thought that "since things can tend to be cheaper as a package, why not get the package?"

As stated before like electronics and playing with them so I am willing to take the risk. I can get the G12 for around $400 and the canon housing for$200. So $600 would get me started.

I guess the real question is. Will the standard stock flash on the G12 give me enough light to take a decent pic in Caribbean water?
 

Back
Top Bottom