Apeks pack plate and harness assembly

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Buelboyx1

Registered
Messages
7
Reaction score
3
Location
Denver, CO
# of dives
200 - 499
New to back plate diving.
I purchased the Apex WTX 40 wing with the standard 2-in harness and two cam straps for my single tank. I am not sure what to use to bolt the wing to the plate? They sent some small bolts with it but they require a black washer otherwise they will pull through. Is this how it works or do I need to purchase a sta with longer, thicker bolds? I thought I read somewhere that a sta is not needed?
Any help would be great.

Ps- manufacturer instructions suck.
 
You don’t “need” to bolt the wing to the plate but it does help keep things from flopping around as you set it up. The plastic book screws will work for that since you will not put any pressure on them, you lift the rig by the harness not the wing. I like an STA because it makes tank changes easier and it will allow you to use stainless carriage bolts and nuts because there is room in the channel for the nut.
Or without the STA you can use something like these
Electro-Plated Assembly Screw w/rubber protector , Piranha Dive Shop |
To replace the supplied ones.
 
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I think what I will do is order a single tank adapter. That way the wing is attached and doesn't move around between switching tanks. Plus anything to make things easier and add a little weight to the back of me instead of the side of me.
 
I'd recommend using some style of lock-washer, regardless of which system or setup you go with. I've had a backplate bolt come loose before. Wing-nuts are useful for hand tightening. Book-screws are nice, but can be a little pricey.
 
Thanks. That's a handy tip. I will do that instead of the wing nuts that come with it. Any other tips or pointers that I should be aware of when switching from my Zeagel Ranger to the back plate?
 
Thanks. That's a handy tip. I will do that instead of the wing nuts that come with it. Any other tips or pointers that I should be aware of when switching from my Zeagel Ranger to the back plate?
I prefer nylock nuts or book screws over lock washers but if you don’t use some sort of locking system inspect them before every dive because they will loosen up. The thing to look for is how much lead you can remove, the Ranger isn’t exceptionally floaty but you can toss it in a pool to get an idea of how floaty it is, hold it underwater and move it around to get as much air out as possible (bladder empty) of the material and padding then let it go, place weights on it until it just starts to sink, fine tune from there, if you use a stainless backplate that alone will likely take care of it.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom