Aqualung Kronos Supreme and Calypso Octo: compatibility issue?

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GYANNI

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Location
Ellicott city, MD
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25 - 49
Well, I ordered the Kronos Supreme and the Calypso Octo.
When I read the instructions/brochure that came with the Octo, the aqualung calypso) I realized that it's not designed to be used with the Kronos. I assume it's because the Kronos has a balanced first stage, the Calypso is not designed for that. The calypso is really cheap, $59.95, I was attracted mainly by the price and several good reviews.
Only after I realized that I may have made a mistake, I made some researches and read several posts about balanced regulators and lower end Octos, but I'm still confused. I understand that this setup could not be an issue but I'm not sure, I'm still a newbie and i need an expert advice.
And, if i have to return the octo for an exchange , which one would you recommend without spending a fortune? (I already spent $374.95 for the main).
I would appreciate your suggestion.
Thanks for reading.:10:
 
No problems at all, in fact using an inexpensive second stage on a balanced first stage is a good idea. Balancing means slightly different things depending on which stage your talking about but for first stages is simply means that as tank pressure changes the intermedient pressure (IP) stays relatively constant. IP is the pressure that the first stage delivers to the second. Unbalanced second stages...inexpensive and some not so inexpensive..must be adjusted such that they will not leak when the max IP pressure the first stage will output is applied to it. An unbalanced first stage's IP can swing 15 to 20 lbs from full tank to empty and the only way to compensate for this is to adjust the second stage so it will not leak at the max IP. By doing so, the second stage will tend to breath well at one tank pressure and hard at another. Unbalanced piston and diaphram first stages (2 most common designs) actually change IP in different directions so with one type first stage the max IP will be with a full tank and the other type the max IP will be with low pressure in the tank.
If the first stage is balanced the IP will remain pretty constant across the entire range of tank pressures until the pressure drops below a point the first stage can regulate at, usually somewhere in the 250 to 150 psi range and in any case well past where you should have surfaced. :) With the IP constant, your reg tech can adjust your second stage to breath well at the first stages set IP and it should breath at a constant effort thought out the entire tank pressure range.
Balancing on second stages just means it is designed to compensate for any IP swings the first stage has and breath with the same resistance reguardless of IP (within reason). Using a balanced second with a balanced first does not hurt any thing but is pretty much redundant. On the other hand using a balanced second stage with a unbalanced first helps reduce the effects of the IP swing that an unbalanced first stage has.

Clear as mud now ?? :)
 
What Herman is trying to say in that prolonged discussion, is that your Calypso/Titan octo, which is a simple downstream design, can easily be adjusted to work with your first stage. All 5 of my first stages are balanced, and I use unbalanced octos on them.
 
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Thanks, everything is more clear eccepting one thing:
how do I adjust the Octo to work with the first stage? (scratch-scratch on my head)
 
Hi Herman,
.....I doubt he meant 'diatribe' in a negative fashion, I think it was just not the best choice of words.

Karl
 
Thanks, everything is more clear eccepting one thing:
how do I adjust the Octo to work with the first stage? (scratch-scratch on my head)

Best if you let a tech with service experience do it unless you care to learn to repair and service your own equipment, it's not difficult but does need to be done correctly. If you purchased it from a LDS, they should set is up for you. If you bought it online, the LDS will likely still set it up for you but charge you a fee- one of the down sides of online purchases. IMO, a new out of the box reg really should be given a quick check anyway and your going to need to find a service tech for anual rebuilds so starting to build a relationship with a LDS is not a bad idea.
 
Hi Herman,
.....I doubt he meant 'diatribe' in a negative fashion, I think it was just not the best choice of words.

Karl

Exactly. Sorry, Herman, poor choice of descriptor. Actually, I was on my way back to change it : too late.
 
Now I'm scratching my head even more....my LDS charges $100.00 to setup regulators that aren't purchased there.
Maybe I should just avoid the trouble and purchase a different Octo that doesn't need to be adjusted. Which one would you recommend, without spending too much $$$?
Thanks again for answering my question. I'm trying to be prepared before I call LP.com and ask their recommendation.
 
Chances are all the stages you bought will work fine with no adjustment necessary. Have a friend with a little experience help you put them together. If you have a tank you can check them just to be sure. Here is my usual cut and paste set of directions.

Regulator inspection

There are a few checks that everyone is capable of doing. One is the intermediate pressure check. Get a simple 300 psi Intermediate Pressure Gauge Plugs Into The BCD Quick Disconnect Hose from LeisurePro.com

Find out the what the IP range should be for your regulator (most are ~ 135 +/- 10 psi .)

The intermediate pressure should remain steady after stabilizing within the acceptable range. If it tends to climb (creep) that indicates there is a problem with the first stage that must be corrected.

Another check is the cracking pressure of each second stage. Partially fill your kitchen sink and immerse the regulator with the mouth piece up. Air should begin to flow before the diaphragm gets more than a 1 1/2 of inches deep. You may have to put plastic tubing in place of the mouth
piece to do this, but usually not. If you want to get fancy (there is no reason to get fancy) make a simple manometer from plastic tubing and a yard stick * » * » Manometer
and you can check the cracking pressure with a good deal of accuracy. If you want to get REAL fancy, buy a Magnehelic gage from eBay, but again no reason to do that.

Next, a water tight check is also very easy to perform and checks the integrity of the second stage housing. Hook
the first stage up to a tank and without turning on the air (or if you have a good tight dust cap you can use that instead) draw a breath on the second stage until you hear the diaphragm retract. Do not draw too hard as it will collapse the exhaust valves and cause a leak. Does the regulator hold
vacuum? If so, it is probably water tight.

These simple checks can be done by anyone. They should be done often, not to mention when new out of the box or after shop service.

Check early, check often.

couv
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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