Basic Newby Questions: Bubbles and Tether

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Divesherpa

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Messages
1,224
Reaction score
19
Location
Girdwood, Ak
I enjoyed my first day of boat diving with the new video camera and housing. What a great learning experience! I am left with a couple of questions.

How do you insure that no bubbles are in the picture (from the dome port on the housing)? Can you rain-x the dome or something? Do you manually wipe it down in the water every dive? I have an external red filter if that makes a difference.

Second question: what do you use for a tether? I would really appreciate any feedback that you guys can pass along.

Also, my video composition skills are very poor. What suggestions do you have for improving my composition skills and transition?

I've seen some of you guy's work on the websites. You all have some great stuff.

Cheers,
Jamie
 
I can give you some tips I've learned from years of photography and graphic design that I think apply to video as well (I have done some videography as well and am looking to get back into it in a major way shortly).

* Visually, less is more.

* Raw footage-wise, shoot as much as you can.

* Go for the interesting angle rather than the boring "snapshot" type angle. When you could shoot something straight-on, shoot from below or the side instead. If you're shooting through a doorway inside a wreck, maybe you strategically include part of the doorway in the frame.

* Something which I think is called the "rule of thirds" which very basically says that you should try not to center everything, but rather frame things so that they are more towards one of the four sides or corners of the frame, ie off-center

* Pay attention to lighting. Sometimes having something half or mostly in shadow makes your subject look much more interesting.

* Try to find an object that dominates your frame

* Find a second object and try to set up some kind of visual relationship between the two, balance them off one another.

* Look for the imaginary "lines" and "shapes" that your subject makes. Example: Shooting down the length of a wreck so that the sides of the boat form a slanting "arrow" shape against the blue as it recedes from the camera is a lot more interesting than backing up and just shooting it sitting there horizontally across the screen. The same with those "alleys" of sandy bottom between two large outcrops of coral.

* Don't move the camera all over the place aimlessly, give the viewer's eye something to latch onto, and time to assimilate what they're looking at.

* If you must pan, pan slooowly

* Sometimes a stationary shot is a good thing.

* If your housing gives you a zoom control, for God's sake don't use it while shooting!

* When you get into editing (and this is just a personal bias coming from watching too many home movies) don't get distracted by fancy--read "silly"--transition effects. Contrary to what the advertising tells you, they don't make your home movies look professional; they make them look like home movies with silly transitions. :)

* One more personal bias: put divers in with your undersea wildlife. And I don't mean unwitting divers in the distance who don't know they're being filmed and who you only see for two seconds while your camera roams around. Film your dive buddy, or some other willing soul on the boat, interacting with the fishies; swim around him/her, get up close. Encourage the audience to think "that could be ME!"

I don't necessarily advocate trying to ape other people's work, but try watching some movies and documentaries about the ocean and study how the great professional underwater cinematographers like Al Giddings and Jordan Klein shoot. Try movies like The Deep, or any of those National Geographic videos. You don't have Super-Panavision, for sure, but you can at least see how they choose to frame their images and so on.

cheers

Billy S.
 
Divesherpa:
How do you insure that no bubbles are in the picture (from the dome port on the housing)? Can you rain-x the dome or something? Do you manually wipe it down in the water every dive? I have an external red filter if that makes a difference.
I wouldn't rain-x the dome. I've read here that over time it will slightly etch the dome and turn it milky. I generally spend a few seconds while descending wiping them off the port and my external red filter. It's been my experience that once you wipe the bubbles off, you're ok till you surface. Unless you pass the front of the housing through your exhaust stream during the dive, then check it all again.
Second question: what do you use for a tether?
I use this lanyard from Cetacea with the addition of a locking carabinier (climbing gear) to the housing end. The only downside is that the clip rattles against the housing which gets picked up by the camera mike. I clip it off to the highest d-ring on my BC which allows for plenty of travel.

I've walked out of the water with the whole housing clipped off without any problems. And I have a heavy poly housing with 4-5 lbs. of weight under it. Pic is the one I have, here's a link to all the different Cetacea lanyards: http://www.cetaceacorp.com/cgi-bin/..._seen=0&category=Coil_Lanyards&store=products
Bought mine at my LDS, they have a Cetacea display with all sorts of clips like it.

Steve
 
Thanks guys. I appreciate both of your posts. The Rain-x info is also good to know.

Looks like I will have a bubble check at the beginning of each dive.
 
Second question: what do you use for a tether? I would really appreciate any feedback that you guys can pass along.

I use a really light, bright orange piece of shock cord I found in the rock climbing section of a sporting goods store. I use a stainless clip from Home Depot for the BC end, and have it tied to the housing to eliminate banging. Total cost = $3.57. Works great, and is very strong.
 
I just clip mine to a waist level D ring off with a double ended s/s clip when not using it. When I am using it, no attachment other than my hands. I have the buoyancy balanced to be very slightly negative. I can take my hands off it for a second without it moving out of reach (I wouldn't try it in a current).
 
I seem to get bubbles in the external red filter of my housing on the way down. They disappear after descending 40 feet or so. Very annoying. It has messed up some shallow shots. In the future I may take the filter off and try to gently wipe off the bubbles.

I don't use a tether. Probably should but the lack hasn't given me problems.
 
RickSp:
I seem to get bubbles in the external red filter of my housing on the way down. They disappear after descending 40 feet or so. Very annoying. It has messed up some shallow shots. In the future I may take the filter off and try to gently wipe off the bubbles.

I don't use a tether. Probably should but the lack hasn't given me problems.

I find that fanning the filter in front of the lens removes the bubbles effectively from both without having to physically touch either of them.

Jeff
 
JRO:
I find that fanning the filter in front of the lens removes the bubbles effectively from both without having to physically touch either of them.

Jeff


Good advice. Thanks.
 
I picked up a sewn sling from the rock climbing and attached a ss bolt snap to it. I take the sling and tread it through one of the arms of the housing and then clip it off to my crotch d ring. On ascent and descent I shorten the tether. Seems to work reasonably well.

Thanks everyone else for the filming advice.

Jerry
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom