Belize Aggressor IV - our first LOB experience - April 2018

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Dogbowl

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I would like to preface this trip report by acknowledging the excellent and very detailed reports on the Belize Aggressor IV (“BAIV”) that came before, such as this one by @drrich2 : Diving Belize via Sun Dancer 2 May 2nd - 9th.

And a recent trip report on the BAIII by @Trailboss123. He was there the week after us and I suspect diving conditions would have been pretty similar: Belize Aggressor III Trip Report – April 21-28.

There are many others if you do a search.

Rather than trying to emulate those (which I am sure at which I will fail), I’ve decided to write this trip report from a more personal perspective, that is, from the perspective of a newer diver’s first LOB experience.

My husband and I were on the BAIV the week of April 14 – 21, 2018. We each had about 40 dives before this trip, mainly in the Caribbean. FWIW, we got our AOW and Nitrox just a few months before in Cozumel. This particular week was a “Dive with the Owner’s Week”, which meant that Wayne Brown, Aggressor’s CEO, was also onboard.

Flight

We flew from Toronto to Belize City on a direct Westjet flight one day before boarding the BAIV (Friday, April 13th). The flight was uneventful. We later found out how lucky we were to have flown out a day early, as the very next day (Saturday, April 14th), snow and freezing rain hit Toronto and flights were either cancelled or delayed. And it was mid-April!

We ended up sitting beside a man who was headed to Ambergris Caye to get open water certified, so of course, we chatted him up. (Aside: On the return flight, we again sat beside another man who was a diver. He had coral and marine life tattooed on his arm, so it was pretty obvious he was a diver. We chatted him up too. Divers like to talk diving.)

Immigration and ground transportation

Upon arrival in Belize City, there was a lineup at immigration, but it didn’t take too long. There was only one luggage conveyor belt so I surmised it was a very small airport. Our luggage came out quickly and we wheeled it out the door towards “ground transportation” or “taxi”, I don’t remember which. We were not bothered by the porters who were hanging out at the exit.

Outside, there was a crowd of people waiting for transportation. I saw a young man at a kiosk so I asked him about getting a taxi. He charged us USD$25 and told us to board a van. It was a shared van, which surprised me a bit. I thought taxi meant private taxi. Anyways, I just went with it. Our van was “full” with 6 people on it. The van could’ve fit 9 people but the last row was used for our luggage.

About halfway to the hotel, we passed by another taxi that had a flat. Our taxi driver offered to drive that taxi’s 4 passengers to their destination (the water taxi). Nice gesture and comradery but seriously? Our van was full and the last row of seats in our van was taken up by all of our luggage. How on earth or are we gonna get 4 more passengers (plus their luggage) on an already full van? Never underestimate the Belizeans, I guess. Our driver just piled their luggage on top of all the other luggage and the 4 additional passengers ended up either on the floor of the van or on another passenger’s lap. Seriously. My husband laughed at how lucky the guys were who ended up with pretty young girls on their laps! But hey, we all got to our destinations in one piece! Those who are less likely to shrug off such things should probably consider the hotel shuttle instead, where quality control is a little tighter (as was told to me by the hotel).

Pre-boarding hotel

The BAIV and her sister ship, BAIII, dock at the Radisson Fort George Hotel and Marina. For convenience, we chose to stay overnight at this hotel. The hotel was older but it was clean and service was attentive, so it was fine for our purposes. We splurged (not that it cost a lot more) and got a Tower Room on the 4th floor, which looked out onto the dock and directly at the two Aggressor ships. It was a very nice view.

Based on fellow SB’er warnings, we did not venture out of the hotel, not even for meals. We ate at the Baymen’s Tavern inside the hotel 3 times. The food was fine and the prices reasonable. There are two other restaurants in the hotel, Stonegrill Restaurant and St. George’s Restaurant. We didn’t get a chance to try them.

On the day of boarding, we checked out at noon and gave our luggage to the porter. He transported them directly to the ship, which was very convenient. I suppose he does this every week for most of the Aggressor passengers. We had lunch and then lounged around until 3:00pm (boarding time).
 
Boarding and cabin

We were eager beavers and were the first passengers on the ship at exactly 3pm. We were greeted by Captain Dennis, and Steward Elia showed us to our cabin, which was a master cabin at the bow of the ship, on the port side. This cabin was the last cabin available on this sailing so it wasn’t our first choice. If available, we would’ve chosen a cabin closer to midship for better stability and less money. There are 2 master cabins and both are located at the bow. They each have a queen bed only and as it turned out, the only 2 couples on the ship ended up with the master cabins.

The cabin was comfortable and had a big picture window. The bed and pillows were comfy, and they had extra blankets and we used them. Since the cabin is so small, if you turn on the A/C, it can get quite cool but if you turn it off, there is no circulation, so you really do need to keep the A/C on at night. Most had a rough first night due to getting used to the A/C and boat rolling, but I think most got used to it after that. We certainly did.

In terms of storage, there was: (1) a closet for hanging your clothes; (2) 2 cabinets above your bed; (3) 2 large drawers at the bottom of the bed; (4) 1 night stand with 2 small drawers (I think the deluxe twin rooms have 2 night stands); (5) a space under the bed to store your luggage (we were able to get both of our bags in there, but barely); (6) a medicine cabinet in the bathroom; and (7) an undersink cabinet where toilet paper was kept. We found the storage space totally adequate for our purposes.

There was a tv that could play movies from a usb. I believe you can ask to have movies added to the usb, but I don’t think anyone had time for that.

The bathroom was small, as expected, but everything worked pretty much as it should. They provided hand soap, body wash, shampoo and conditioner. Two sets of towels were also provided. The only 2 minor issues were that the sink drained very slowly in our cabin, so you would get water sloshing back and forth when the boat rolled, and there was no safety bar in the shower to hang onto, so when the boat rolled suddenly, you literally could come flying out of the shower and hit the toilet. I think a safety bar should be installed in the shower stall.

Most cabins were on the same level as the dive deck, which I thought was super convenient.

Dive deck

Shortly after boarding, we unpacked our gear and chose our spaces on the dive deck. We chose middle spots on the starboard side of the dive deck, so as to be away from the on-deck showers and not too far from the dive platform. These spots were fine. But if I had known any better, I would’ve chosen the spots closest to the vent that released warm air on the port side! Warm air would’ve been greatly appreciated during our week.

On each side of the dive deck, there was a wetsuit dunk tank, mask water bucket and baby shampoo solution in a spray bottle, warm water showers, wetsuit hangers and camera tables. There was also a separate camera charging station and a Nitrox analyzer. There was a head on the dive deck but I never used it.

I have not been on other LOBs so can’t really compare with others, but I thought the setup was very functional.

They put on your fins for you for every dive, and if you’re lucky and a DM was at the ladder when you finished (which is not always the case), he also took your fins off as well.

My only complaint re the dive deck is that the right side ladder seems to be missing a right-side hand railing. It took stupid me several dives to figure that out. No wonder it was so difficult getting back onto the boat!

Crew and fellow passengers

The crew consisted of Captain Dennis, First Mate John, Engineer Simon, Instructor Ken, Chef Carlos, Assistant Chef Jean and Stewardess Elia. I believe they work on a schedule of 6 weeks on, 2 weeks off, so you may not get exactly the same crew combination. I enjoyed all of them.

There were 18 passengers onboard, filling up all 10 cabins. Two passengers had their own cabin. Three were from Bulgaria, 2 were from Canada (us) and the rest were American (NY, MD, GA, NC if I remembered correctly). In terms of age, it was 40s and up. There were only 2 females onboard, me being one of them. Both females were a part of a couple. The rest of the passengers came as singles or as a group of friends. At the end of the week, there were 10 Iron Divers, which is high according to Captain Dennis. It was definitely a group of very keen divers.

Weather

Weather during our week was not ideal. It was windy and overcast/rainy for the first few days, and sometimes downright cold. Apparently, a cold front was passing through. We didn’t get sunny and warm days until Wednesday and Thursday, so spirits weren’t at the highest. I felt especially for the Bulgarians, who travelled 48 hours to get to Belize!

The captain decided to overnight in Belize City Saturday night, and travel to the first dive site at Turneffe early Sunday morning instead. This was due to the winds. Our dive sites were pretty much dictated by weather (mainly wind) all week.
 
Meals & dive schedule

For our week, the meals and diving did not follow a strict time schedule, so I won’t provide exact times but generally was as follows:

Breakfast (continental and made-to-order)
Dive #1
Snack
Dive #2
Lunch (buffet-style)
Dive #3
Snack
Dive #4
Dinner (served)
Dive #5 (night dive)

The food was good and varied. There was always more than enough. I did not feel bored and I get bored easily. They were also very careful with my dietary restriction. Chef Carlos even came to my room one day to ask how I wanted my potatoes cooked! Absolutely no complaints here. I much preferred the food onboard than the meals I had at the restaurants in Belize City.

Diving

Diving is supposed to be the most important thing while on a liveaboard, but this is the one place where my memory is kind of fuzzy. As mentioned earlier, this was our first liveaboard and we had encountered some newbie issues, mainly how to get back onto the boat after each dive. It took us several dives to figure that out. Our fellow passengers saw us struggle in this area and offered some tips: don’t chase the boat! That was my mantra all week: don’t chase the boat! And we were teased for it, but in a friendly way.

My other nemesis was the hang bar. As many of you know, the BAIV has a hang bar, which some like to hang onto for their safety stop. I used it twice and swore I would never use it again. The wind was strong and the boat was swinging like a pendulum back and forth, back and forth. Hanging onto that thing, the currents nearly ripped the mask off my face and the regulator out of my mouth. I hated that feeling! So we tried not hanging onto the hang bar, but kept missing the dang ladder! So on one occasion, I drifted further and further from the ladder and one of the DMs had to come out and “rescue” me. Kind of embarrassing but another lesson learned: when surface currents are strong, descend a few feet and swim to the mooring line and pull yourself in.

I had an unfortunate week and did only 11 dives out of 26 that was offered. I knew going in that I was only aiming to do 3-4 dives a day. I wasn’t going to overextend myself on my very first liveaboard. I got very seasick on one of the night crossings and vomited. The next day I was feeling very weak and tired so I didn’t do several intended dives. And towards the end of the week I came down with a cold. My nose was all congested and I couldn’t equalize so I had to sit out the last 2 dives on Friday morning.

My husband did 22 dives and he would’ve done more if not for a suspicious rash he got mid-week. We discussed it among fellow passengers, the Captain and Aggressor’s CEO and all of them thought it looked more like an allergy/inflammation than skin bends, but still thought he should sit some dives out just in case. One of our fellow passengers who was a doctor was very nice and offered his personal stash of ointments and it cleared the rash quickly!

All week, my husband and I followed the DM. When I didn’t dive, my husband followed the DM. Sometimes the DMs guided the dive, but sometimes, they were just in the water taking photos! On one dive, my husband told me he “perfected” his buoyancy because he didn’t move in the water column for 30 minutes while the DM was taking photos in one place. I think I’d prefer if the DMs focussed more on actually guiding the dives.

Most of the other divers did their own thing most of the time. Sometimes, several of the divers followed the DM. Everyone dived together for the Blue Hole, with one DM leading and one DM at the back.

This section is about diving and I haven’t even mentioned anything about the actual diving! That’s because it just wasn’t very impressive. And we don’t even have that much experience. Our main comparison would be to Cozumel and we both agreed that we preferred Cozumel in terms of visibility, fishiness and majestic coral formations. There were some sites that had very healthy and very large patches of soft and hard corals that were very beautiful. We did see sharks and turtles and eagle rays, and the standard Caribbean marine life.

During the first few days, when the days were cold, windy and overcast, the Bulgarians did not wear any smiles on their faces. I guess they were wondering why they flew 48 hours to see “this” vs. just going to the Red Sea. They actually told me they were disappointed during dinner one night. But, on the day we did the Blue Hole, all of them had smiles on their faces! In fact, everyone on board wore big smiles on their faces on the morning of the Blue Hole dive. That excitement was quite magical. I was the only passenger that sat out the Blue Hole. I just wasn’t feeling it and I was ok with that.

Conclusion

Despite all the minor issues we encountered, we really enjoyed this trip. More than anything, it was a learning experience and we knew it would be that. Before this trip, my husband was dead set against liveaboards – he didn’t want to dive 5 times a day and be stuck on a boat. Well, he’s been totally converted! Before this trip, I thought I would LOVE liveaboards! Knowing what I know now, I wouldn’t say I love them, not yet. I still need to go on a few more to know how I really feel about them.

I want to mention that the people onboard, including the crew, really made this experience enjoyable for us. Everyone was nice to us and we just couldn’t have asked for a better group of fellow divers.

Post Script

If anyone is interested in the actual dive statistics for our trip, and what reefs we dived, please let me know and I will post my husband’s details, as he did more dives than me.
 
Glad you got to go, and came back here and shared your trip with us. The more people post trip reports, the better, as someone considering a given trip has a better chance to find a 'kindred spirit' and see how that person's experience was.

While weather may have dictated dive site choice more so than usual, it'd be interesting to see the list of dive sites from your husband's log book. How many were at Turneffe Atoll vs. the Lighthouse reef region, etc...

That first time on a live-aboard is a bit of a 'leap of faith' - fear of being stuck on a boat all week, not knowing what the other people will be like, how you'll take to it, etc... So far I've been delighted to find congenial groups of people from a variety of interesting backgrounds participating in a shared passion, knowing a trip is often what you make it so they try to make it good for everyone.

Richard.
 
Glad you made the trip! It really is a pain when you don't feel well and especially have cold/flu symptoms. But unlike myself in my youth, I work really hard to enjoy even when I sit out a dive or two. I've done 5 LOB's now; have one scheduled in Hawaii in August; I'm pretty convinced I'll do at least one a year as long as I am able physically and financially to swing it.
 
Thanks for taking the time to post @Dogbowl - you gave a nice overview of the boat and life on board it that week.
 

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