buoyancy and diving ascents

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Flguy76

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Messages
9
Reaction score
1
Location
Panama City, Fl
# of dives
25 - 49
I have been certified a number of years but my dives have been few and far between and i still consider myself very much a novice. What i have realized lately as I have begun to get back into diving after a hiatus and from talking to other divers is how much I did NOT learn in my certification and subsequent advanced class, mainly pertaining to buoyancy control, good ascent control and related issues. Just curious how some of the more experienced divers on here tweak their buoyancy on decent and during a dive and handle their ascents ect. I was taught the old 10% of your body weight rule when weighting and then the simply fin pivot and to just arbitrarily dump small amounts of air periodically as you swim slowly to the surface. Just looking to be a little more refined in the way I do things when down there.....Thanks
 
I suggest that you take a refresher course and Peak Performance Buoyancy

Amount of weight required will depend on what exposure protection you are wearing.
 
What i have realized lately as I have begun to get back into diving after a hiatus and from talking to other divers is how much I forgot from my certification and subsequent advanced class, mainly pertaining to buoyancy control, good ascent control and related issues.

Fixed it for you.

First thing I recommend is doing a very shallow dive (30') for 'unlimited' time. Weight your self properly so that it becomes a skill to descend. Repeat with a near-empty tank. Find out how much weight you need at the end of the dive.

Your body is very near to neutrally buoyant. Focus on slow, controlled, efficient movements through the water. You will soon realise that you need to use the BCD less and less as your breathing and movements become more efficient. Be the dolphin- just don't try to swim like one or you'll get funny looks.
 
For open water ascents I computerize the ascent. Computer will indicate if you are going slow enough. Go up a bit stop. Go up a bit stop.

I dive from time to time in a local quarry. If I do the submerged road entry, when coming back in I always try to see how close I can get to shore without touching the bottom and without breaking the surface. Slowly moving with frequent stops for several yards that way in 3-4 ft of water is great buoyancy practice.

As pointed out in the previous post it is important to be able to stay down with an almost empty tank. You do not want to go light at the end of the dive.
 
The whole 10% of your body weight rule never worked for me...I weigh 180 and wear 8lbs with a full 7Mil and steel 100 in fresh water..and 10 Lbs with a 3Mil and an AL 80 in salt water ....

The only way to get buoyancy right is to just dive and work on it.....
 
As indicated above, a major key is to get your weights right.

I suggest that instead of using trial and error over a series of dives, that you should dedicate 1 (or more) dives to setting your weights. Take the time at the start of the dive to either add or remove weights to get the proper weighting. Then enjoy a long shallow dive until your tank is close to the magic 500 psi and again spend the time to check your bouyancy.

This type of weighting exercise is stressed as part of the "check out" dive in Bonaire and on every live aboard I have been on, especially for any diver who is diving unfamiliar equipment for the first time.

New wetsuit, new fins, new bcd, new camera, then make sure you get your weight dialed in is the primary objective of the first dive. Looking at the fishes can be the prime objective of the following dives.
 
Doing a proper weight check is the first step. Do it with only your mask, fins, snorkel, and exposure suit. Weight yourself so that as you exhale you SLOWLY start to sink. A pocket type weight belt with individual pockets is good for this as you can quickly and easily change out weights.

Once you've done this the next step is to weigh your rig in the water with a fish or luggage scale and see how positive or negative it is. and adjust for that. And write the info down.

Then don the rig and repeat the first step. I'd suggest doing this with a tank of the type you'd most likely be using that is between 500 and 1000 psi.

Next once you think you have this close get horizontal and lay out flat on the surface. Empty your BC and exhale. You should start to slowly descend. As you descend watch your rate of that descent. Add little bursts of air if you feel it increasing too much. At predetermined depths (5ft, 10 ft, 15 ft, 20 ft) check your descent and swim around a little.

Through all this keep a careful eye on your breathing. It should remain steady and rythmic. No extra deep beaths or longer than normal exhales. While doing this do some skills like mask remove and replace. reg remove and replace. Your breathing should not change at all in anticipation of this. If it does it'll screw up your buoyancy control.

Now for the ascents. Ideally I want students to not get vertical until the last 5 -10 feet unless conditions warrant it. You have more control over descents and ascents in a horizontal position than you ever would vertical. This is why the very first skill I teach on scuba is buoyancy control and trim. We do horizontal ascents and descents and work on getting neutral in that position in the very first pool session on scuba. The whole procedure I use is laid out in my book that is available from me in print, PDf, or non audio CD with an illustration of how it's accomplished in the pool. The same could be done in open water with a slope or platform that would not disturb the environment.

Once you accept this and work on doing ascents this way they become quite easy. Especially in OW without a down line. You keep and eye on your gauges and pay close attention to your body. It will let you know if you are ascending too fast! Your ears, sinuses, and even your gear will give you indications of your ascent rate. You just need to know how to interpret them.

And for open ocean or large lake or quarry dives - learn to shoot a bag! A SMB or lift bag and spool or reel with provide a visual and tactile reference. I have one spool that is knotted at 5 intervals with 2 knots at 15 ft and 3 at 20 feet so that even without a mask or in zero vis I know when to do my stops and where I am in the water column. Make use of the tools that are out there.

And as for formal training - a course is not always the best choice if it's done by the book. By the book is actually pretty lame. Find an instructor that will go beyond the book or will do as I do and tailor a workshop to address your specific needs. A formal course with 4 students often benefits none of them as much as an individual tailored workshop will. It allows the person doing the workshop to pay close attention to you and devote all resources that way.

And since there is no card processing a workshop is often less expensive!
 
I layer my insulation. Depending on water temperature I could be wearing a 3mm full + a 3 mm vest + two polyolefin full + hood & gloves or only a rashguard tee. I could be diving with steel or aluminum. Obviously 10% of body weight ain't gonna work.

I took a tank with 500psi and put on all my layers. Went out deep enough to do a weight check, swam in, removed one layer, did another weight check, repeated till I was down to the rash guard. I then made a spreadsheet that gives me the weight for any combination with any tank. Since then I have had no weighting nor bouyancy problems. On any dive I have almost no air in my BC.

Since, properly weighted, with BC empty and lungs full I will barely float and with lungs empty I will barely sink I can control my ascent rate more easily. I totally empty my BC and swim to the surface watching the rate on my Icon HD. It has the most marvelous ascent rate display ever.
 
I really liken Jim's explanation. To add to this, I would recommend that you review your reading material from open water. Then, the best book that I've read on bouyancy and trim-The Six Skills, by Steve Lewis. The Six Skills will go into detail about weighting,bouyancy, trim and ascents.
 
Agreed. That's where the fish scale comment came from. Steve's book is a great read and full of info for divers of all levels. Plus he's apretty cool teacher and good friend. Will be seeing him next weekend in fact. He's teaching sidemount at the same place I'm teaching a wreck class.
 

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