Buying Used DrySuit - What to check for??

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Scubadaddy

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Location
Barrie, Canada
# of dives
25 - 49
Hi,

I'm considering buying a used drysuit as I cannot afford a new one. When I find one that I'm interested in, what should I check for?

Are there any 'red flags' that I should be aware of? (aside from holes in the fabric or cracked seals lol).

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
Leaks....:D

sorry couldn't resist.
 
I've bought three used drysuits and sold two. I have one that I use as my regular (and only) exposure suit.

If I had known then, I would have just bought a new drysuit.

Nevertheless, here's what to look for:

0. The fit:
If it doesn't fit, it's junk. The End.

You should be able to put it on comfortably while wearing some clothes. I wear thermal socks, spandex pants, a dryfit shirt, and a fleece vest under my neoprene suit. If it's a laminate suit, you'll have to be able to put on some warm clothes underneath. Since cost is important, I'll let you know that under a laminate suit, I wore a $10 pair of fleece pants (I added stirrups) and a $10 fleece pullover. They worked great in 4C water. I've heard that despite the high price, the official $300 thermal drysuit undergarments are better.

The neck seal should fit tight, but not too tight. You should be able to get a few fingers in there, but it's got to form a watertight-under-pressure seal. You **MUST** be able to wear the suit for hours at a time without feeling uncomfortable. You will know within a few minutes whether the seal is too tight.

The wrist seals should fit about the same. If your hands get cold, then they are too small.

Overall, you should have a very high degree of flexibility. A drysuit is supposed to restrict the water's movement, not yours. Stand stall, reach your opposite shoulders, squat, jog in place, etc. Any tightness will make you think "freakin' suit" while you're underwater.

Watch the fit on the shoes. You will probably want to put on some nice, thick, thermal socks on before you try on the suit. The boots should fit like any normal (i.e. land) boots. Note that you may have to buy new fins to fit your drysuit boots.

Problems with the fit are serious. They will not get better underwater, and DO NOT BUY a suit thinking that you're going to lose 5-10 pounds. Buy for your current weight.

1. The zipper(s):
These should open and close freely. If they are sticky, walk away. That means that the previous owner doesn't use wax or doesn't own any, which means that the suit isn't being taken care of. My suit is a rear zipper, but the zipper's in such good shape that I can open and close it by myself.

Look for visible corrosion, too. Some discoloration is normal, but not lots.

2. The seals:
As I said during fit, make sure that the seals are fitting correctly. If they aren't, you'll get wet.

Latex seals should be even, with no signs of rubber corrosion. Ask if they will throw in the Seal Saver. If they say, "yes" or "no", then walk away. The answer you're looking for is "the what?" or "I don't use that." The silicone will be all over the suit, making repairs (and there will be some) tough, bordering on impossible.

It's harder to tell with neoprene seals. If they are flexible and pliable, then that's all you can hope for. If they seem brittle, the suit is really old and hasn't been maintained.

3. The valves:
There are two valves, inflate and exhaust. These tend not to leak internally, but leak around where they attach to the suit. If you're feeling ambitious, you could take them apart and inspect them, but it's unlikely that the seller will go for that. The best you can do is ask if they leak and look the guy in the eye when he answers.

Make sure they work before you trust your life to the suit. You must be able to inflate for a drysuit to insulate you, and you must be able to exhaust to control your buoyancy. You can test this yourself with what's left in your tank after a dive.

Most valves leak a little, especially the exhaust.

You may have to buy a whip; if it's included, ask why.

4. The rest of the suit:
If there are holes in the suit (e.g. loss of buoyancy above a sea urchin colony) they are easily patched. You'll have to check your suit once a year anyway to make sure there's no wear and tear.

Check also how it's stored. Is it hanging in the garage with a good hanger or rolled into a careful bundle in a storage container? Is it in a pile in the closet?

Remember that the suit is being sold because there's a problem with it. Find out exactly what that problem is before you hand over any cash. Most of the time, there's a good reason: my wife said to sell it, I got a new suit, I haven't done a winter dive since 2002 (warning!), I don't dive anymore, etc. Most of the time, the guy will tell you point blank what the problems are. For my suit, I knew that it leaked a bit when I got it, and I patched up the leaks.

Finally, there's no such thing as the deal of a lifetime. If it's a good deal, then another one will present itself. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
 
Thank you themagni :) Sounds like some great advice.

I have a suit in mind already. The seller claims he got it as a gift a couple of years ago and doesn't dive anymore ("only used once"). I've seen pics (item looks brand new) but can't go look at it for a couple of weeks as it is in a city I'll be visiting in early October.
 
1. Zippers: A sticky zipper could also be a new zipper - some are stiff until used a while. look for wear and tear on the edge of the zipper. Most sippers begin to fray when they age and get a feathered look with loose whitish colored nylon threads peeling off from the edge of the zipper. Most divers singe these off with a lighter to slow down the process, but eventually the zipper will leak. So if the edged inside the teeth are frayed, uneven or mimimal in width - be wary.

You can check for zipper leaks by inflating the suit. Insert suitable size plugs in the wrist seals (drinking glasses usually work well) and neck seal (an empty bleach bottle etc) and then screw the exhaust valve to its tightest setting and inflate the suit until the exhaust valve vents. Then spray the zipper with a solution of water and dish soap and look for bubbles.

A zipper costs about $300-$350 to replace.

2. Seals: If buying from the owner compare you neck and wrist sizes with his and ask him how the sseal fit. When trying it on, too tight is fixable, too loose is not. A neck seal should feel snug but not be so tight that you feel like you are choking or turn red or blue after a few minutes. If it is really comfortable it is too loose.

A neck seal costs perhaps $75 to replace. Wrist seals run about $50.

3. Suit type: Type of suit is important. Neoprene, compressed neoprene, vulcanized rubber or trilam all have their fans and all meet different purposes and have different pros and cons.

4. Valves: Really old suits have both valves on the chest - avoid them like the plauge. An exhaust valve on the upper arm is most common and preferred by most divers. A cuff dump is also found on some suits but has some downsides for most divers.

Si-Tech valves and Lyskil (Spelling?) are both great and add to the value of the suit. The exhaust valve should be an automatic dump model with an adjustable outer ring that turns to increase spring pressure and in turn increase the pressure in the suit.

5. Boots come in a few stlyes, vulcanized rubber boots attached to the suit, attached neoprene or nylon socks designed to be used with a "rock boot" style exterior bootboot. Some suits come with ankle seals - avoid them as they do not work at all for diving. New boots or properly sized boots can be added for around $100-125.

6. Fit: A poorly fitting suit may not be a bad deal if it is priced right and the alterations are needed in areas where they can be done inexpensively. For example if the torso fits well, but the arms and legs are too long, they can be inexpensivelty shortened if you are replacing boots and seals anyway. Cost would be in the $200 range.

So...if an otherwise good fitting suit expect for too long arms and legs that you'd pay $2k for can be bought for $500 and updated with new seals ($150), zipper ($300) boots ($150) and alterations ($200) , you'd have $1300 into the suit and assuming the suit fabric is in great condition, you'd have a virtually new suit that is semi custom fit for a decent price. Obviously if the suit is selling for $1200, you are better off getting a new suit.
 
Remember that the suit is being sold because there's a problem with it.

This isn't necessarily true. I'm contemplating selling one of mine, because I have THREE. There's nothing wrong with the one I'm thinking about selling at all.

As far as seals go, latex seals should feel substantial and rubbery. If the seal feels flaccid and limp, it's on its last legs.
 
Good deal....I do have a Pinnacle Freedom, with truely 1 dive, attached boots size 9, for $600.....

The guy had some heart issues his first dive, and his doctor told him no more drysuit due to the pressure on his heart.....returned to me after 1 dive.....I was there that day, so I know it truely was 1 dive....

Probably more than your looking to spend, but just throwing it out there for you :wink:
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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