C4040 Underwater

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Hydrodynamic

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Location
Michigan
Just got a PT-10 and YS90DX ( used, w/o manuals of course ) for my C4040 and have a few questions if anyone can help.
1. Do I need to use manual white balance with the strobe? What about on night dives?
2. Can I shoot in Auto mode or should I be using A/S/M?
3. Slave mode: on or off, also TTL or PRE, and should I be using SLOW2 with the strobe?

I've been using the camera about a year on land and am just starting UW so any advice or basic setup suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
 
it's been awhile since I used the C-4040 and YS90DX but I'll try....

Hydrodynamic:
1. Do I need to use manual white balance with the strobe? What about on night dives?

No, the manual white balance is used with no additional lighting, either from a strobe or the camera internal flash.

2. Can I shoot in Auto mode or should I be using A/S/M?

You CAN shoot in Auto but you'll get better results from A/S/ or M.

3. Slave mode: on or off, also TTL or PRE, and should I be using SLOW2 with the strobe?

Slave mode - on. PRE. and I always use slow1.
 
I use a 4040... heheh.. but not sure of the settings now that you bring it up..
It's uncomplicated for sure in that the manual white balance as Dee pointed out, would be used for Natrual Light shots.. much like adjusting the colors in Photoshop. IF you wanted the colors... So I set to auto..

Don't believe you have the option with TTL, that's pretty much with the Old Nikonas V and hopefull with the new ones coming out.

Typically I use the manual setting. Stobe power 1/4th minimum for macro 1-2 feet 1/2 for further out 3-5' and full if I really feel lucky, but up here in the PNW, as I see you're in Michigan, all I would get would be backscattered shots.
I usually at 125/sec f5.6 strobes 1/4th power..

Anything further away, you need to adjust something, speed, f-stop or as a last option the strobe power... just take the time to play with it and you'll get a good idea.

I've also found that by turning the stobes OFF, f-1.8 (great lens) and speed at 1/30th or faster you can get some terrific "Natural Light" shots in Green water.. looks errie so try that too. No backscatter, can shoot infinity etc...

Stobes:
Mine are hard wired directly to the camera, again no TTL, so not much help on the fiber optic and the preflash/flash config... I do know you need to synch them up, or the camera's preflash will fire the strobe BEFORE the picture is taken.. so you get a really kewl picture of the rock....heheh.. where the fish WAS... so make sure strobe and camera flashes are in synch...

Good luck and get those pictures posted.. and shoot-shoot-shoot...
what's it gonna cost...
nothing... but memory eh???
not like film etc....

Hope that helps...
 
fpoole:
Don't believe you have the option with TTL, that's pretty much with the Old Nikonas V and hopefull with the new ones coming out.

Stobes:
Mine are hard wired directly to the camera, again no TTL, so not much help on the fiber optic and the preflash/flash config... I do know you need to synch them up, or the camera's preflash will fire the strobe BEFORE the picture is taken.. so you get a really kewl picture of the rock....heheh.. where the fish WAS... so make sure strobe and camera flashes are in synch...

...


Wrong.... There is an option

I have been using TTL for a while now (hard wired).. Depending on your enclosure the ease of use will vary..

see

http://www.muenster.de/~matthias/blitz/manual.htm

Its in INEXPENSIVE TTL adapter.
 
padiscubapro:
Wrong.... There is an option

Interesting way of bringing this up,
but will be curious as to the general information on this.

This would certainly be an innovation to all cameras.
And a great welcome to the oly users.


I guess that's why we have these discussion - eh?
 
and with the YS-90DX in 'PRE' dial the C4040s flash exposure compensation all the way down to -2.0 so it'll recycle faster....
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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