Cam Bands / Tank Straps

[Goindrinkn]

Yet another question... Does anyone sell Longer Cam Bands? (I've done some looking to no avail.) Especially the quick release type. Or do people have to sew their own?

I purchased a H.O.G. plate (awsome) and it has an additional set of slots outside of the normal center channel. I'm purchasing the AL version of the plate and would like to try my lp 95 with it. However the Cams aren't close to long enough to use it. Anyone (single tank divers) have this issue? what did you do to get around it?... Also (and I realize it's not the forum) but is there a DIR guidance on CAM bands? Are the full releases DIR?


Thanks in advance...

James

 

[redacted]

I had just to opposite problem with older style scubapro tank straps and the Oxycheq UL travel plate. The strap was just too long with a 7.25 inch tank. So you might want to try one of those straps to see if it is long enough for your application. I suspect it would be.

I cured my length problem by removing the HW from a very old strap and making a new, shorter strap for that application. No sewing. I used 5 SS nuts & bolts to attach the buckle to the new strap. I used Aquaseal neoprene cement to glue the velcro to the new strap which adjust and retain the connecting ring. And I also cemented a piece of webbing over the area where the SS nuts would have contacted the tank which also protects the tank from the lever device.

 

[Zinc]

I think a single tank adapter will solve your problem. They are made by several manufacturers and should fit any back plate w/ 11" hole spacing.
The regular size cam straps thread through the metal adapter which bolts on to your backplate. This is also convenient for switching b/w singles and doubles.

 

[shoredivr]

I found the STA to be a PITA, putting the tank farther away from my centre of gravity. I have an OMS plate with the slots cut into it. I use only the cam straps from the OMS STA for my LP108s, and have not regretted it.

I don't find it a big deal to unweave two cam bands from the plate to switch to my doubles.

 

[Goindrinkn]

Very close to the case. I loose another inch or more also as my plate has a second set of slots a little wider than the groove. This eliminates any rock / roll that the tank may have and makes it super stable. Since I bought the plate / wing in part because of these features, I'm trying to stay away from the STA. --- Still on the hunt. It looks like I may have to make a set, and if so, so be it.

 

[halocline]

Are you threading the cam straps through both sets of slots? From the tank side of the plate, that would be down through the left outer, back up the left inner, across the center channel on the tank side, down through the right inner, back up the right outer. If you can do that, and it works with your wing, you can simply hold the wing in place with the cam strap. That's exactly how my old jet harness plate threads, and it works fine with 8" tanks. If your wing has no grommets (unlikely unless you have a travel wing) then the tank has a nice stable surface to sit on with no STA.

I have seen different lengths of cam bands for sale; just measure yours and call around; you'll find some longer ones if that's what you need.

 

[Nemrod]

Yes, scubatoys and I believe Dive Rite Express list a longer than standard band.

Just get a dang STA.

N

 

[Garrobo]

I bought a slightly-used OMS aluminum plate ($20), took a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate (FREE) over to the local sheet metal shop and had them cut and bend it into a STA configuration ($4) so that the tank is only 1/8" from the head of the 5/16th brass bolt I use to put it together. I use Dive Right quick-release straps with stainless steel clips.Don't notice any buoyancy problems yet but I've only used it in the pool so far.-Not to high-jack the post, but what can I coat the STA with to keep it from corroding in salt water?

 

[mangrovejack]

You want to anodise it. Any other coating will just scrape off anyway. Aluminium itself will form a barrier called Aluminium Oxide, so technically would wouldn't need any coating at all, but by anodising it, you could change the colour if you like or get it clear anodised.

 

[Garrobo]

Mangrovejack: Googled anodizing and came up with a lot of useful stuff. Found out that all I needed was a 12 volt power source, some battery acid and a piece of lead and aluminum wire for anodes. Called the local NAPA and bought a five gallon box of acid for $23.50. Unbelieveable. I can now anodize the whole neighborhood.