Canon G11 Settings

[toastman]

I am also ordering my G11 soon .

Whilst looking for the wp-dc34 on Ebay, I noticed that the price ranged from like $174 to $280. How much did you guys pay for yours?

Thanks !

 

[ghnouer]

I am also ordering my G11 soon .

Whilst looking for the wp-dc34 on Ebay, I noticed that the price ranged from like $174 to $280. How much did you guys pay for yours?

Thanks !

I paid $174,99 . (BHphoto )

GHN

 

[gummybun]

Thanks elanarchist' for that detail!

I notice you have focus assist beam ON. Did you leave it ON as a default setting? I wondered if it might cause subject shyness or be an issue in silt.

Also, when setting white balance with flash - do you need to have the flash at a FIXED value (ie. Minimum) - I was having some issues and thought this might be the problem.

Finally, with the Canon Housing (DC 28)I was getting some condensation in the lens/forward area, and this is sealed off from the remainder of the housing cavity (where the Silica is) I was considering Modding the black rubber lens 'gasket' with a punched hole on the side using a hole punch - to allow some air movement. Anyone else have this problem when in really high humidity environments?

 

[toastman]

I have another question about the G11 and housing.

I just ordered my G11 and I am going to buy the dc-34 soon. I heard that this housing blocks the flash for the camera, therefore resulting is cludy looking or distorted pictures.


So my question is, can I still take decent pictures and videos with this issue (without any extra lights, just camera and housing) ?

Thanks !

 

[Warmwater Wank]

Tman--Ok, this really is more of a camera settings thread so your question might warrant another thread, eh? Oh well, at the risk of a semi-hijack, here is the deal. The WP-DC28 housing does indeed block part of the G11 flash due to how extended the housing front needs to be to accomodate the extended lens. The lower right part of your scene is what can get shadowed. It certainly will show when using the wide angle end of the zoom, it shows less so as you zoom out (make the scene appear larger) because you pick up up less of that shadowed area. In macro mode or when in close (3-5'?) it isn't typically noticeable, especially when zoomed out.

If you are shooting a distant scene (say at least 10-15 feet or more) shadowing won't be a problem at any focal length because the flash would no longer be the dominant light source (except maybe on a close foreground), same for shallow water when it's bright--you probably won't notice shading problems. Also, many folks learn to plan for this when composing, especially as they begin to notice the shadow problem in some shots. They frame to avoid including the area affected or they just shoot and crop it out later. Learn not to frame the scene with anything important down at the lower right corner (which won't always be your best bet of course but still...) and you pretty much have dealt with it. I wouldn't count a whole lot on the supplied diffuser doing much for this problem but it might help a bit.

Notice nothing has been said about "cludy" ( 'cloudy ', yes?) or distorted pictures. That's because the flash or housing won't cause these problems for still photos. With video though, oh brother--I hear the variable potentiometer runs into the same flux gate problem Nemrod warned you about with freshwater. Oh wait, ya know what? It mighta been Nemrod who told me about this potentiomter problem! I'll have to check my notes... No,the strobe firing for a few 1/1000ths of a second will not cause any video problems. Start saving up though, you will eventually want to add some sort of light down the road I bet. // ww

 

[toastman]

Tman--Ok, this really is more of a camera settings thread so your question might warrant another thread, eh? Oh well, at the risk of a semi-hijack, here is the deal. The WP-DC28 housing does indeed block part of the G11 flash due to how extended the housing front needs to be to accomodate the extended lens. The lower right part of your scene is what can get shadowed. It certainly will show when using the wide angle end of the zoom, it shows less so as you zoom out (make the scene appear larger) because you pick up up less of that shadowed area. In macro mode or when in close (3-5'?) it isn't typically noticeable, especially when zoomed out.

If you are shooting a distant scene (say at least 10-15 feet or more) shadowing won't be a problem at any focal length because the flash would no longer be the dominant light source (except maybe on a close foreground), same for shallow water when it's bright--you probably won't notice shading problems. Also, many folks learn to plan for this when composing, especially as they begin to notice the shadow problem in some shots. They frame to avoid including the area affected or they just shoot and crop it out later. Learn not to frame the scene with anything important down at the lower right corner (which won't always be your best bet of course but still...) and you pretty much have dealt with it. I wouldn't count a whole lot on the supplied diffuser doing much for this problem but it might help a bit.

Notice nothing has been said about "cludy" ( 'cloudy ', yes?) or distorted pictures. That's because the flash or housing won't cause these problems for still photos. With video though, oh brother--I hear the variable potentiometer runs into the same flux gate problem Nemrod warned you about with freshwater. Oh wait, ya know what? It mighta been Nemrod who told me about this potentiomter problem! I'll have to check my notes... No,the strobe firing for a few 1/1000ths of a second will not cause any video problems. Start saving up though, you will eventually want to add some sort of light down the road I bet. // ww

Once again, you have helped me incredibly with your post !

Thanks so much !