Aspendiver
Guest
Love that idea- you could almost just take the hardware with you when you travel, and find something suitable to adapt wherever you are! Not that the piece of grating would be that bulky or heavy...
Thanks for the link, too.
Canon WP-V1 Housing!
- Thread starter TheBigPhillyFish
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Love that idea- you could almost just take the hardware with you when you travel, and find something suitable to adapt wherever you are! Not that the piece of grating would be that bulky or heavy...
Thanks for the link, too.
ws6mikey
Registered
Hi guys, I am new to UW photography except for some lousy Sea Life shots. I purchased a Canon HF20 with the WP-V1 housing. I usually dive salt water from depths of 100' (The Spar in NC) to 60' in Cozumel and Cayman. I enabled the UW setting on the HF20. What other accessories do I need to shoot in the conditions I mentioned. I do have Pinnacle Studio 14 so I can post process but I want to get the best color right out of the gate. Thanks!!!
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That's all you can do. Your housing doesn't allow Manual White Balance so you'll have to do some blue color correction - at least from Cayman/Coz - I don't know NC water color. Do you have the option for a red filter on either the camera or the housing - I'd get one - as it will remove a lot of the "blues" during shooting. Since the light is typically so good off Cayman/Coz, I'd leave it on the whole time - except it will yellow anything above 15'.
What you may want to do also is shoot something white u/w and use it as a reference in Pinnacle during post. I don't know Pinnacle that well but most NLE's have some sort of selector tool to set a reference white point.
What you may want to do also is shoot something white u/w and use it as a reference in Pinnacle during post. I don't know Pinnacle that well but most NLE's have some sort of selector tool to set a reference white point.
ws6mikey
Registered
The camera itself accepts a 37mm filter. The housing I believe accepts a 67mm filter. NC water is more of a greenish blue and quite a bit darker. Vis about 30'. What would you recommend as far as brand? Thanks for the help.
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Conchchowder
Contributor
Sea Optics/Digital Video Housings/Inon WPV1 Accessories
Has accessories for the WP-V1 I don't know about US dealers, but this gives you an idea of what is possible. Using the arms gives the center-of-gravity offset needed to counterbalance the weight of the wide angle lens.
I bought Pinacle 14 online but the dl isn't online for me yet: Lucky.
Sea Optics/Digital Video Housings/Inon WPV1 Accessories
The plastic LevelCam may help with camera stability as well.
Has accessories for the WP-V1 I don't know about US dealers, but this gives you an idea of what is possible. Using the arms gives the center-of-gravity offset needed to counterbalance the weight of the wide angle lens.
I bought Pinacle 14 online but the dl isn't online for me yet: Lucky.
Sea Optics/Digital Video Housings/Inon WPV1 Accessories
The plastic LevelCam may help with camera stability as well.
jim hoppe
Registered
Took the housing to Australia to dive with Mike Ball on the Great Barrier Reef and the Coral Sea. The camera and housing performed well. No leaks, no condensation, no overheating or mechanical problems of any kind. The images it produced were excellent to about 40 feet or so. As others have pointed out is holding the camera steady and white balance in the ever changing underwater conditions are the biggest issues.
I would definitely add a wide angle lens from the gitgo. The cameras lens is not wide enough and a wide angle would make camera shake less obvious. I made the mistake of shooting in the 30 frame "progressive" mode. I think that 60i is the way to go. The progressive mode seems to soften the image somewhat and it adds to the perception of unwanted camera movement.
The camera and housing float (canon warns in the operators manual not to use the housing as a "flotation device", semi-seriously I assume) so I used a gorilla pod and a 2 pound ankle weight wrapped around the pod to get negative and to steady things out a bit. The ankle weight was pink and drew a few laughs from other divers, they could not however resist watching the video.
I had not been diving in 18 years so my rusty skills likely contributed to some of the shaky clips. Also there were high winds which took the surge much deeper than usual. At times it felt like trying to shoot while being laundered on "gentle cycle". All in all the camera and housing are well worth the price. The photographer who works the boat is considering a hi-def camera, the sony ex-1 and housing, total cost $20,000.00. To get halfway there at less than one tenth the price is just a heck of a deal.
If you ever get a chance to dive with Mike Ball do not hesitate. It is a first rate operation in every way and an unforgettable experience.
I would definitely add a wide angle lens from the gitgo. The cameras lens is not wide enough and a wide angle would make camera shake less obvious. I made the mistake of shooting in the 30 frame "progressive" mode. I think that 60i is the way to go. The progressive mode seems to soften the image somewhat and it adds to the perception of unwanted camera movement.
The camera and housing float (canon warns in the operators manual not to use the housing as a "flotation device", semi-seriously I assume) so I used a gorilla pod and a 2 pound ankle weight wrapped around the pod to get negative and to steady things out a bit. The ankle weight was pink and drew a few laughs from other divers, they could not however resist watching the video.
I had not been diving in 18 years so my rusty skills likely contributed to some of the shaky clips. Also there were high winds which took the surge much deeper than usual. At times it felt like trying to shoot while being laundered on "gentle cycle". All in all the camera and housing are well worth the price. The photographer who works the boat is considering a hi-def camera, the sony ex-1 and housing, total cost $20,000.00. To get halfway there at less than one tenth the price is just a heck of a deal.
If you ever get a chance to dive with Mike Ball do not hesitate. It is a first rate operation in every way and an unforgettable experience.
Conchchowder
Contributor
Thanks for the update, Jim. I think that by using a levelcam (above) you may get more steady shots...or use the grate idea in the previous post. I have the ankle weight as well and affix it to one of those tripods with segmented legs. I can simply set the camera down and hit the record button without having to hold the cam steady. I also have a slider which I can use underwater as well. I plan on trying that out in the near future.
Nocturnal Lights
Contributor
Hi Guys,
Sorry to interrupt the conversation but since you guys have mentioned video lights I just wanted you to know that we do have a few video lights available for the WP-V1 housing.
Nocturnal Lights Underwater Video Lights
the flex arm combos with single or dual SLX 800i or SLX 800xi will all work with the Canon WP-V1 housing. We've recently sold a set through our dealer and the customer has been quite happy with it.
Joe at Marine Visions is our dealer and you can ask him about the lights if you wish. He's very knowledgeable but he hasn't gotten a chance to add our lights on his catalog. We'll be here to answer questions as well.
Sorry to interrupt the conversation but since you guys have mentioned video lights I just wanted you to know that we do have a few video lights available for the WP-V1 housing.
Nocturnal Lights Underwater Video Lights
the flex arm combos with single or dual SLX 800i or SLX 800xi will all work with the Canon WP-V1 housing. We've recently sold a set through our dealer and the customer has been quite happy with it.
Joe at Marine Visions is our dealer and you can ask him about the lights if you wish. He's very knowledgeable but he hasn't gotten a chance to add our lights on his catalog. We'll be here to answer questions as well.
Robsonsvids
New
Hey fellas, been a pleasure to read up about the WPV1.
I am having a problem though, I get fogging/and or water between the Inon UW100 and the housing itself..
Most of my filming is done only partially submerged..
Should I use plumbers tape to form a seal so that moisture/water cannot enter between the lens and the housing?
Is the gap susposed to fill with water?
Any ideas?
Thanks in anticipation.
Rich.
I am having a problem though, I get fogging/and or water between the Inon UW100 and the housing itself..
Most of my filming is done only partially submerged..
Should I use plumbers tape to form a seal so that moisture/water cannot enter between the lens and the housing?
Is the gap susposed to fill with water?
Any ideas?
Thanks in anticipation.
Rich.
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