Casting lead weights---Lessons learned

[SparkySFD]

Oh yeah.

The graphite spray worked okay. Not having a lot of trouble getting the weights out.

Im really happy with the "tool dip spray". Weights are sealed up, look good and have a nice texture to them. Time will tell if it holds up.

 

[FredT]

Poured 7 weights this afternoon. Learned a bit more.

Gonna have to disagree with you, FredT, on taking the weights out quickly. Had to recast three of the seven I made today. They came out super slick, but all cracked. One was badly deformed.

What worked for me is:

1. Pour weight
2. Wait till weight firms up. Somewhere around 4-5 min. Its about 50 degrees here.
3. Dunk in bucket of water.

FredT

What problems have you had when tempering/dunking in water? Im assuming you maybe had an air pocket or something, and maybe a small explosion?

Either the mold is too hot when you pour, or the lead is, if it cracks after a couple minutes cooling. Propelry done once you get the temperatures right you should get two out of the mold per minute.

Free water is the problem. If one partial drop is still in the mold when you pour the next one the molten lead in the mold is suddenly coating YOU!. It's the same class of hazard as smoking while reloading ammunition. Most of the time you'll get away with it but the one time you don't is really nasty and WILL be the last time you do it.

BTW most sand or die cast aluminum molds are made of what is known as "pot metal" that is mostly aluminum. Welding it is possible with pre-buttering of the edges with a good alloy, but the time it takes to butter the edges normally makes it not worth it. Anything less than a weld normally won't hold up to heated service.

 

[erubic]

could I use these lead (tire) weights to make my own soft pouches for my bcd, instead of lead shot?

 

[SparkySFD]

FredT

I'd say my mold is probably too hot then. Im sure I dont have any water in the mold because Ive been preheating it with a MAPP torch. May be getting it too hot.

erubic

I dont see how you could make a "soft" weight with tire weights. They come in assorted sizes but even the smaller ones are not even close to a BB.

Im sure you could make a solid weight though to put in that pocket. A solid weight takes up less room than shot.

 

[FredT]

Preheat the mold before the first shot by doing a partial casting in it. knock it out immediatly upon hardening and return the broken pieces to the pot to tcoll any overheat in the metal there. Just keep the mold between about 300 and 400°F during the casting process to avoid any water issues (sweat is a double edged sword here) and slow the set down just a little bit. I generally avoid putting bare flame on a mold.

As to mold temperature regulation cast on an aluminum plate. I use a 2' x 3' x 1/4" thick plate 'cause that is what I had, but thinner will work too. The heat sink it provides quenches the mold a bit to speed solidification and allows spills to be cleaned up easily and returned to the pot.

Wheel weights can be cut up sing a chisel to make the shot, or simply cast as shot.

To cast shot pour cleaned molten lead thorgh a sieve made from a a soup can with a few holes through the bottom made with a center punch into a large water filled pan. Think of a kid's wading pool as a proper pan size and depth. Separate the seive from the pan by several feet with the 'more is better" principle in full effect. 4' will work, but better results will be had if the separation is from 8' to 12'. Shot size is based on hole size and lead temp, the thin can helps keep the lead from setting up in the seive. Shot roundess will be based on height (50 to 75' makes pretty round shot if there is any arsenic in your alloy) air temp, and alloy. Commercial shot is graphite coated to keep it flowable.

"Square shot" can be made by running thin sheet castings thorugh a heavy duty crosscutting paper shredder, but it's a bit hard on the shredded.

Alternately you can cast sheet lead in a cookie pan and cut it to pouch size with a skill saw or knife and hammer.

FT

 

[deepdiverbc]

Here is a post I did on a design for an adjustable channel weight. The tips on pouring lead are repeats of previous posts on this thread but the adustable channel weight is a different idea that some might find usefull.

Here is the link

http://dive.scubadiving.com/members/divetips.php?s=489

 

[Mobius1]

i like to use an old cast iron pan we salvaged from the burnt cabn in the mountians we own. and i didnt even think of wheel balcncers i have to get some. and this is somthing i harp at anyone for GET A RESPIRATOR FOR 40 DOLLARS AND GET THE P TYPE CARTRAGES THAT WILL PROTECT YOU FROM L;EAD DUST AND FUMES.! NEVER CAST WITHOUT ONE. unless you have a fume hood.

 

[erikharwell]

you can burn a sooty wood stick and (smoke) the mold to help the object release from the mold. as others have said, do not get any water in the lead. I have made that mistake before and had a 20 pound pot of lead explode spraying it on me and my face, it was not pretty. I did not get burned to bad, but it makes some real nasty burns w/ yellow puss pockets

 

[alikws]

just sooting up the mold with a candle while cold works well...
for a melting pot, i've seen the turkey friers that burn down garages so well, coupled with a cast iron pot used... i use a gasoline powered plumbers forge and crucibles for running balls [70+ calibre revolutionary war muskets]..

on safety, eye protection is a must, also cotton,wool or leather clothing... water is a _very_ bad thing around lead.. you can't have too much ventilation [dont even think of inside] and empty your crucible when done - heating a full crucible produces molten lead expanding under solid lead on top, a real mess when it erupts...
anything used around lead is comdemmed, except for future lead use

articles on runniing balls are around on the net,especialy around historical muzzleloading groups and nssa shooters...

 

[frenchy07]

I have been melting lead to make race car ballast for many years and would like to pass along some tips to make you life easier.

Spray paint you molds with VHT 1500 deg paint (i use silver). Don't mess with any other paint as the 1200 and 1300 deg paints will bubble when the hot lead hits it.

Always melt outside!!! Lead fumes are toxic and you would be best advised to wear a mask (and not the little white paint ones, mines only 20 bucks from harbor freight).

When the lead starts to gas (liguid and giving off fumes) you have it to hot and it tends to discolor and bubble (gives a bad appearing look when cooled). Let it cool a bit before you pour.

Place you mold on a piece of aluminum plate (we pour 25 and 50 Lb blocks and use a piece of scrap 1/8 in plate). Makes the cooling process more even and makes the block look better.

We use a stainless perforated spoon to skim with (don't swip your wifes, get your own). No reason other than they are cheap and do a good job

When you get it right the lead blocks will have a nice smooth appearance and look almost silky.

Have fun and keep the moisture away from the hot material. Have a ton of burn marks on my shoulders from my days of exploding cast iron in the foundry (and that was from not warming the skimmer for a few seconds before skimming). Had a pot of lead explode last year and got some in my mouth (sure did hurt for a couple of weeks so keep your mouth shut when pouring).

Frenchy07
novice diver and very experienced lead caster